Peunayong Culinary Area

The History and Philosophy of Peunayong as a "Center of Flavor"

The name "Peunayong" originates from the words Peuna (to exist) and Nyong (umbrella), referring to a place of shelter for newcomers. Since the time of the Aceh Sultanate, this area has been a bustling trading port. The diversity of ethnicities residing here—from the Chinese community who have settled for centuries to Gujarati traders—created a rich culinary ecosystem.

Culturally, Peunayong is a symbol of tolerance. In the morning, you will find coffee shops filled with residents from various backgrounds, all sipping the same filtered coffee. The cuisine here is not just about filling the stomach, but a social ritual that strengthens the cohesion of Banda Aceh society.

The Masterpiece of Mi Aceh: Between Spices and Tradition

Talking about Peunayong would be incomplete without discussing Mi Aceh. In this area, there are several legendary eateries like Mie Razali, which has been operating since 1967. What makes Mi Aceh in Peunayong different from elsewhere is the depth of its broth and the texture of its noodles.

Secrets of Ingredients and Preparation:

The noodles used are thick yellow noodles made fresh daily without preservatives. Its uniqueness lies in its fine spice paste (red spice) which consists of dried red chilies, garlic, shallots, candlenuts, cumin, cardamom, and turmeric.

Cooking Techniques:

There are three main variants: fried (dry), stir-fried (with a little sauce), and boiled (with plenty of broth). The cooking technique using large iron woks over high heat (wok hei) ensures that the spices penetrate deep into the noodle fibers. The addition of beef, lamb, or seafood such as crab and shrimp provides a strong umami flavor dimension. As a balance to the spicy and flavorful taste, Mi Aceh is always served with fresh pickled shallots, melinjo crackers, and lime wedges.

Sate Matang: The Aroma of Charcoal and Savory Soto Broth

Although originating from the Matang Glumpang Dua region, Sate Matang finds its best stage in Peunayong. Along the night streets, plumes of smoke from the satay grills become an iconic sight.

This satay uses diced beef or lamb marinated with a special spice blend containing coriander, galangal, and lemongrass before being grilled over hardwood charcoal. The uniqueness of Sate Matang lies in its accompaniment: a bowl of rich, fatty soto broth flavored with cardamom, star anise, and cloves. The way to enjoy it is by dipping the satay into a coarse peanut sauce, then sipping the warm broth—a perfect combination of texture and temperature.

Peranakan Heritage: Coffee and Breakfast at Old Eateries

Peunayong is home to the true "Kopi Darat" (coffee gathering) culture. Old coffee shops like Warkop Dhapu Kupi or the row of coffee shops on Jalan T. Panglima Polem are silent witnesses to the city's development.

Traditional Filtered Coffee:

The coffee served is Robusta coffee grown in the Gayo highlands. Its preparation is very theatrical—known as Aceh's version of "Kopi Tarik" (pulled coffee). The coffee is brewed with boiling water, then filtered repeatedly through a sock-shaped cloth from one copper ladle to another. This process produces a fine foam and perfectly removes the grounds, creating a strong yet smooth coffee taste.

As a coffee companion, locals usually enjoy Roti Sele (Jam Bread). The srikaya jam used in Peunayong is homemade with a generations-old recipe, using duck eggs and thick coconut milk cooked for hours until it turns brownish and has a caramel aroma.

Martabak Aceh and the Variety of Night Snacks

As the sun sets, Peunayong transforms into a bustling culinary night market. One of its stars is Martabak Aceh. Unlike typical egg martabak where eggs are wrapped in flour dough, Martabak Aceh actually places the flour dough inside, then coats it with beaten eggs mixed with spring onions and chopped meat on the outside. It tastes more savory and has a softer texture, often served with a spicy and sour pickled shallot.

In addition, there is the legendary Sop Sumsum. Large beef leg bones are served in a clear broth that is very rich in spices. Visitors are given straws to suck the savory marrow from inside the bones—an eccentric yet highly sought-after culinary experience.

Ikan Kayu (Eungkot Keumamah): A Culinary of History and Struggle

In the traditional markets of Peunayong, you will find Eungkot Keumamah or dried fish. This is skipjack tuna that is boiled, dried, and then hardened. Historically, this dish was the provision for Acehnese fighters during the guerrilla war against the Dutch due to its long shelf life.

In its preparation in Peunayong kitchens, this dried fish is shredded and cooked with asam sunti (dried and salted starfruit). The combination of spiciness from green chilies and the iconic sourness from asam sunti creates an authentic flavor that cannot be found elsewhere in Indonesia.

Dining Customs and Local Etiquette

Eating in Peunayong is not just about taste, but also about understanding local etiquette. The culture of Meurami-rami (eating together) is very strong. It is rare for Acehnese people to eat alone in this area. Coffee shops and eateries are public spaces where political discussions, business, and family matters are resolved over the dining table.

This area also shows unique operating hours. Some places only open after Isha prayer until before dawn, following the rhythm of life of the religious people of Banda Aceh who also have a dynamic social nightlife.

Preserving Heritage Amidst Modernity

Although modern cafes are starting to emerge in Banda Aceh, the Peunayong Culinary Area remains the main destination for true flavor enthusiasts. The success of this area in maintaining its reputation lies in the loyalty of its vendors to ancestral recipes. The use of specific ingredients like asam sunti, pliek u (fermented coconut oil pulp), and traditional cooking techniques with clay pots or charcoal are still maintained.

The Peunayong Culinary Area is a flavor laboratory where history, religion, and tradition blend into one plate of food. Visiting Banda Aceh without spending time in Peunayong is like reading a book without touching its essence. Here, every bite is a story, and every aroma of spice is a tribute to the past glory that lives on to this day.