Wadi and Kandas Sarai

Wadi: A Fermented Masterpiece from the Banks of the Barito River

Wadi is a traditional fish preservation technique passed down through generations by the people of South Barito. Conceptually, Wadi was born out of the need to store food reserves during the peak fish harvest season (the surung season or dry season when river levels recede). To prevent fish from going to waste, the community developed a unique fermentation technique.

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Main Ingredients and Preparation Process

The fish used to make Wadi are typically freshwater fish with a relatively high fat content, such as Patin, Jelawat, Papuyu (Betok), or Gabus (Haruan). The key to Wadi's deliciousness lies in the use of Samu or Sari.

Samu is roasted rice powder, toasted until it turns dark brown or almost black, then ground finely. The Wadi-making process begins by cleaning the fish and cutting it according to preference. The fish is then coated with a precise amount of salt. Salt acts as a preservative and draws moisture out of the fish meat. After being left for one night, the fish is washed clean, dried, and then evenly coated with Samu.

The fermentation process takes place in airtight containers called Balanga (traditional ceramic jars) or tightly sealed jars for a minimum of one week to one month. During this period, chemical transformations occur, resulting in a distinctive sharp aroma and a chewy yet tender texture of the meat.

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Cooking Techniques for Wadi

Wadi is not eaten raw. The most traditional and favored method is to fry it with sliced red onions, garlic, and bird's eye chilies. When it hits hot oil, the caramelized aroma of Samu will emerge, creating a tempting blend of fermented scent and a very strong savory-salty taste.

Kandas Sarai: A Lemongrass Chili Paste That Transcends the Senses

If Wadi is the protein star, then Kandas Sarai is its soulmate. "Kandas" in the local language refers to a type of Dayak-style pounded chili paste that uses a large amount of its main ingredient, not just as a spicy accompaniment.

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Ingredient Uniqueness: The Power of Lemongrass Stalks

Unlike most chili pastes dominated by chilies and tomatoes, Kandas Sarai uses the white part of lemongrass stalks (sarai) as its main component. The lemongrass stalks are thinly sliced and then roughly pounded with bird's eye chilies, roasted red onions, salt, and a little bit of roasted shrimp paste (belacan).

The uniqueness of Kandas Sarai in South Barito lies in the addition of grilled fish, crushed, into the pounded chili paste. Typically, the community uses river fish grilled over embers until dry (called salai fish or grilled fish). The fish meat blends with the lemongrass fibers, creating a dense, fibrous chili paste rich in natural umami flavor.

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Flavor Philosophy

The taste of Kandas Sarai is an explosion of freshness. There's a citrusy sensation from the lemongrass that cuts through any fishiness, combined with the spiciness of bird's eye chilies and the smoky aroma of grilled fish. This chili paste is believed not only to stimulate appetite but also to have health benefits due to the essential oils in lemongrass, which are good for digestion.

Cultural Heritage and Eating Traditions

In South Barito, serving Wadi and Kandas Sarai is a form of respect to guests. In Dayak tradition, these culinary dishes often appear in customary events or large family gatherings.

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Eating Together on a Lanting

One unique tradition that still endures is enjoying Wadi and Kandas Sarai on a Lanting (floating house) on the banks of the Barito River. The calm river atmosphere, gentle breeze, and a plate of warm rice with savory-salty Wadi and fresh Kandas Sarai create an unforgettable sensory experience.

There is a local philosophy that says, "You haven't truly been to South Barito if you haven't smelled the aroma of Wadi." This highlights how strongly this culinary identity is tied to the region. The Wadi-making technique also indicates a housewife's skill in managing the kitchen and ensuring family food security.

Kitchen Secrets: The Legendary "Sari" Technique

The excellence of Wadi and Kandas Sarai in South Barito is often attributed to the quality of Samu or Sari. Legendary families in Buntok (the capital of South Barito) have their own secrets in determining the roasting time for the rice. The rice used is not just any rice, but local rice like Beras Karau, which has a harder texture, resulting in a crispy Samu powder that doesn't clump.

Furthermore, in making Kandas Sarai, the technique of "grilling" ingredients (not frying) is key to its authenticity. Red onions and shrimp paste must be placed in embers until their skins turn black, imparting a sweet-bitter flavor dimension that cannot be achieved with modern cooking techniques.

Preservation in the Modern Era

Although refrigeration technology (refrigerators) has now reached the remote areas of South Barito, the existence of Wadi remains unshaken. This is because the community no longer sees Wadi merely as a preservation method, but as a flavor preference. The distinctive fermented aroma is precisely what is missed by those who have migrated from Central Kalimantan.

Currently, Wadi and Kandas Sarai are being packaged more modernly to be sold as distinctive souvenirs from South Barito. Several local SMEs in Buntok have produced "Instant Wadi" and "Kandas Sarai Chili Paste in Packaging," allowing this legendary delicacy to be enjoyed by people outside the island of Kalimantan without compromising its original taste.

Conclusion: A Symphony of South Barito Flavors

Wadi and Kandas Sarai are tangible proof of how past limitations gave birth to extraordinary culinary creativity. Both represent human adaptation to the river's natural cycles—how to store abundance during harvest season to be enjoyed during lean times.

Enjoying a portion of rice with fried Wadi pieces and a dip of Kandas Sarai is the best way to understand the soul of the South Barito people. Within it lies the salty taste of fishermen's sweat, the fragrant aroma of lemongrass from the land of Borneo, and the warmth of traditions that continue to be preserved so they are not forgotten by time. This cuisine is not just food; it is a living narrative, a history that can be tasted, and a proud identity for the province of Central Kalimantan.