Kamali Beach Culinary Center

The Philosophy of Kamali and the Transformation of Public Space

The name "Kamali" etymologically derives from the local language, referring to the palace or residence of the Buton kings. The choice of this name reflects respect for the noble values of the Buton Sultanate. In the past, this coastal area was merely a small harbor and a mooring spot for fishing boats. However, since the early 2000s, the Bau-Bau City Government has developed it into a city square integrated with a food court.

Today, Kamali Beach is not just a place to eat; it is the living room for the people of Bau-Bau. Here, social boundaries dissolve. From officials to dockworkers, everyone sits on the same plastic chairs, enjoying dishes under the glow of colorful lights and the iconic Green Dragon statue—a symbol of friendship between the Buton Sultanate and the Chinese empire in the past.

Main Attraction: Ikan Bakar Parende and Maritime Tradition

Speaking of Kamali Beach, it's incomplete without discussing Ikan Parende. This is a culinary masterpiece of Buton, born from the local wisdom of its seafaring community. Parende is not just ordinary fish soup; it is a representation of the freshness of Southeast Sulawesi's seafood.

The fish used is typically pelagic fish such as red snapper, tuna, or snapper, freshly landed from fishing boats at the nearby harbor. The uniqueness of Parende lies in its clear yellow broth, which is rich in flavor. The secret is the use of tamarind or starfruit to provide a fresh sour taste, and roasted turmeric for aroma and color.

The preparation process is very traditional. Spices like shallots, bird's eye chilies, and lemongrass are not machine-ground but sliced or pounded to maintain the texture and clarity of the broth. At Kamali Beach, vendors usually cook Parende in large portions using clay pots or thick aluminum pans over high-pressure stoves to extract the maximum essence of the fish without breaking the meat.

Accompaniments: Kasuami and Lapa-Lapa

At the Kamali Beach Culinary Center, rice is not the only primary source of carbohydrates. The local community has a strong connection with Kasuami. This food is made from grated cassava (tapioca), its water squeezed out (dehydrated), and then steamed using a cone-shaped bamboo weave (mini tumpeng).

Kasuami is a symbol of Buton's food security. Its dense and slightly chewy texture is a perfect match when dipped into the hot Parende broth. There is also Lapa-Lapa, a dish made from rice cooked with thick coconut milk, wrapped in coconut leaves, and then boiled for a long time. The aroma of the coconut leaves infused into the coconut rice provides an elegant savory dimension, making it a perfect companion for 'parape' seasoned grilled fish.

The Secret of Dabu-dabu and Buton's Colo-colo Sambal

Another specialty at Kamali Beach is its variety of sambals. The vendors here maintain ancestral recipes in making raw sambals. Unlike the shrimp paste sambal in Java, Buton sambals emphasize freshness more.

Slices of green tomatoes, raw shallots, spicy bird's eye chilies, and local lime juice (kaffir lime or key lime) are mixed with a little hot coconut oil. Some legendary stalls at Kamali Beach even add pieces of young mango or "katapi" to provide a more complex sour sensation. This serving technique ensures that the original taste of the seafood remains the star, while the sambal acts as a balancer for the fishy taste.

Night Dynamics: Fried Snacks and Saraba

As the sun sets and the sea breeze cools, the atmosphere at Kamali Beach transforms. Rows of fried snack vendors become busy. One of the most sought-after is Pisang Goreng Keju (Fried Banana with Cheese) with abundant chocolate topping, but what's unique is how locals enjoy it: by dipping it into liquid sambal. This sweet, savory, and spicy combination is a sensory experience that must be tried.

As a companion, Saraba is a favorite. This warm drink made from red ginger, palm sugar, and coconut milk is often enhanced with free-range chicken egg yolks. At Kamali Beach, Saraba is concocted with a strong blend of spices, including cinnamon and pepper, which serve to warm the bodies of visitors who spend time until late at night by the beach.

The Figures Behind the Scenes: Family Legacy

The Kamali Beach Culinary Center is home to dozens of vendors, most of whom are family businesses that have endured for two decades. There is an unwritten rule regarding the division of areas and menu specialization, so competition occurs healthily through taste quality.

Some grilled fish stalls have been managed by the second generation. The technique of grilling fish with coconut husks is still maintained because it imparts a smoky aroma that cannot be achieved by ordinary wood charcoal. The skill in flipping the fish to cook evenly without burning its skin is a skill passed down from parents to their children.

Cultural Context and Local Eating Etiquette

Eating at Kamali Beach is a social ritual. The Buton people uphold the values of "Pobini-binisi" (mutual affection) and "Poangka-angkata" (mutual elevation of status). This is evident in the portion sizes that are often served communally or in the center of the table for sharing.

Visitors will see how people talk with spirited voices, laugh, yet maintain politeness. There is a tradition of washing hands using "kobokan" before eating, as enjoying Kasuami and grilled fish is best done directly with hands (muluk).

An Irreplaceable Destination

The Kamali Beach Culinary Center is more than just a place to fill your stomach. It is a living museum for Southeast Sulawesi's cuisine. Amidst the onslaught of modern food and fast-food restaurants, Kamali Beach stands firm as a guardian of traditional flavors. Its existence proves that the strength of a culinary destination lies in its loyalty to local ingredients, traditional cooking techniques, and its connection to the soul of the local community.

For anyone visiting Bau-Bau, a stop at Kamali Beach is a must. Under the shadow of the dragon statue and the evening breeze, every bite of Parende and Kasuami tells a story of the long history of Buton sailors, the fertility of Sulawesi's land, and its ever-present hospitality. Kamali Beach is a place where taste, culture, and nature meet in perfect harmony.