Marlborough Fort

Traces of British Colonialism on the West Coast of Sumatra: The Complete History of Marlborough Fort

Benteng Marlborough, or locally known as Fort Marlborough, stands strong on the northern coast of Bengkulu City as a silent monument to the glory of British colonialism in the Nusantara. As the largest British heritage fort in Southeast Asia, this site is not merely a pile of bricks, but a symbol of the global rivalry between the British East India Company (EIC) and the Dutch Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (VOC) for control of the spice routes.

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Background and Establishment (1714–1719)

The history of Marlborough Fort began with Britain's failure to maintain their presence in Banten after being expelled by the Dutch in 1682. Seeking an alternative pepper port, the EIC landed in Bengkulu (then called Bencoolen) in 1685. Initially, the British built Fort York in the same year. However, Fort York's location was deemed strategically unsound and unhealthy, being situated in a swamp that was a breeding ground for malaria.

In 1714, under the leadership of Governor Joseph Collett, the construction of a new fort began on a coral hill on the coast, which was healthier and more strategic. This fort was named "Marlborough" in honor of John Churchill, the first Duke of Marlborough, a great British general renowned for his victories in the War of the Spanish Succession. The main physical construction was completed around 1719, creating a defensive structure that was nearly impenetrable in its time.

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Architecture and Construction Details

Fort Marlborough features a very distinctive 18th-century British military architectural style, with a plan resembling a turtle when viewed from above. This shape was not without reason; this "stella" or star design allowed guards to survey in all directions without any blind spots.

The main structure of the fort was built using red bricks bonded with a mixture of lime, sand, and egg whites as a traditional adhesive that proved very strong in withstanding the frequent earthquakes that shook Bengkulu. The fort complex covers an area of approximately 44,100 square meters with walls 1 to 3 meters thick.

Surrounding the fort is a deep defensive moat, which could once be filled with water to repel land attacks. The main entrance is located on the east side, consisting of a drawbridge connecting the exterior to the main arched gate. Within the complex, there were various functional facilities such as soldier barracks, armories, prison cells, administrative offices, and a small church.

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Historical Events and People's Resistance

Despite being designed as a strong defensive fort, Marlborough's history is filled with dramatic attacks. One of the most monumental events was the rebellion of the Bengkulu people in 1719. Local dissatisfaction with the pepper monopoly and the arrogant attitude of EIC officials triggered a massive attack led by Pangeran Jenggalu and Pangeran Sungai Lemau. This attack was so fierce that it forced the entire British garrison to evacuate to Madras, India, leaving the fort empty for several years before the British finally returned in 1724.

Another significant event was the murder of Resident Thomas Parr in 1807. Parr was known as a cruel leader who disrespected local customs. He was tragically killed in his residence, which angered the British and led to the destruction of villages around the fort as retaliation.

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Important Figures and Transition Periods

The most prominent name closely associated with Marlborough Fort is Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles. He served as Lieutenant Governor of Bengkulu (1818–1824). It was at this fort that Raffles devised strategies to establish Singapore as a free port to rival Dutch dominance in the Strait of Malacca. During his stay, Raffles also conducted botanical research that led to the discovery of the giant flower Rafflesia arnoldii.

Britain's presence in Bengkulu ended with the signing of the Treaty of London (Anglo-Dutch Treaty) in 1824. Britain ceded Bengkulu to the Dutch in exchange for Malacca. From then on, Marlborough Fort changed hands to the Dutch (1825–1942), was then occupied by the Japanese (1942–1945), and finally became the headquarters for the Indonesian National Police and Army after Indonesia's independence.

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Preservation Status and Current Function

Currently, Marlborough Fort is managed by the Cultural Preservation Center Region VII as a National Cultural Heritage Site. Restoration efforts are continuously undertaken to preserve the original structure of the building from the threats of sea abrasion and high humidity. A major renovation was carried out from 1977 to 1984 by the Indonesian government to restore the fort's aesthetic to its original form.

The fort now functions as a history museum and a primary educational tourism destination in Bengkulu. Inside, visitors can see dark prison cells, iron cannons facing the Indian Ocean, and old tombstones of British officials embedded in the fort's walls or floors. One of the unique attractions is the "bastion" which offers a panoramic view directly towards Pantai Panjang.

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Unique Facts and Cultural Significance

Fort Marlborough has several unique facts rarely found in other forts in Indonesia. Firstly, the fort has an excellent air circulation system in its underground rooms, demonstrating the sophistication of British civil engineering at that time. Secondly, there is a unique arched bridge on the inner side connecting buildings, which is often a photographic subject for tourists.

Culturally, Fort Marlborough serves as a reminder that Bengkulu was once an important point in global geopolitics. The presence of the English language, which influenced local dialects, and the introduction of certain plantation crops are intangible heritages stemming from activities at this fort. For the people of Bengkulu, Marlborough is a symbol of their ancestors' resilience, who dared to fight against global colonial powers for the sovereignty of their homeland.

Standing strong for over three centuries, Fort Marlborough remains one of the world's best-preserved examples of military architecture, holding thousands of stories about pepper, blood, power, and diplomacy on the west coast of Sumatra.