Kasami and Parende

Philosophy and Historical Roots: Food of Sultans and the People

Historically, Kasami and Parende reflect the Buton people's adaptation to their geographical conditions. The Buton archipelago, with its limestone soil, is more suitable for root crops like cassava (ubi kayu) than rice. Therefore, Kasami emerged as the primary staple food, replacing rice.

Legend has it that during the Buton Sultanate era, this dish combination was often served during various traditional ceremonies and to welcome esteemed guests. Parende, with its clear yellow broth, symbolizes purity of heart and hospitality, while the robust Kasami symbolizes the steadfast principles of the Buton people. To this day, serving Kasami and Parende to guests is considered the highest form of respect in local dining traditions.

Kasami: The Star Made from Cassava

Kasami (often also called Kasuami) is a cassava preparation processed with very specific techniques. Not just any cassava can be used; local people usually choose old white cassava varieties to achieve the ideal starch texture.

#

Unique Preparation Process

The uniqueness of Kasami lies in its dewatering process. Cassava is finely grated, then placed in a clean cloth sack and squeezed using the ka'opi technique. In the traditional method, the sack filled with grated cassava is clamped between two large wooden planks, weighed down by heavy stones overnight. This process aims to remove the natural toxins (cyanide) in cassava while producing dry and fluffy grated cassava.

After drying, the grated cassava is sifted (di-tapi) until it becomes fine granules. This dough is then placed into cone-shaped molds made from woven pandan leaves or coconut leaves. Steaming is done over a special clay pot. The hot steam passing through the woven leaves imparts a distinctive aromatic scent to Kasami, a fresh and sweet earthy aroma.

#

Kasami Variations

There are several variations of Kasami in Buton, ranging from the plain Kasami Biasa, to Kasami Pepe which is mixed with grated young coconut and a little salt for a more intense savory flavor. There is also Kasami Gula Merah which is usually enjoyed as a light snack.

Parende: A Symphony of the Sea in Yellow Broth

If Kasami is the foundation, then Parende is its soul. Parende refers to the yellow broth fish soup that is a specialty of the coastal people of Buton. Unlike fish soups from other regions in Indonesia, Buton Parende has a very light, fresh broth that does not use coconut milk.

#

Main Ingredients

The fish used must be fresh sea fish caught on the same day. The most popular types of fish for Parende are Pelagic Fish such as Skipjack Tuna, Tuna, or the most special being Red Snapper and Grouper. The freshness of the fish is the key; the fish eyes must still be clear and the flesh firm, as the natural sweetness of the fish will become the main broth of this dish.

#

The Secret of Spices and Herbs

The spices for Parende consist of a simple yet potent composition:

1. Turmeric: Provides an appetizing golden-yellow color.

2. Tamarind or Starfruit: Provides a sour taste that cuts through the fishy aroma. In some areas of Buton, people use Tompi-tompi (a local tamarind-like fruit) for a more authentic sour taste.

3. Shallots and Garlic: Briefly sautéed or directly boiled for the base aroma.

4. Bird's Eye Chili: Usually added whole to the broth for those who enjoy a spicy sensation.

5. Basil and Tomato Leaves: Added at the end of the cooking process to provide maximum freshness.

The cooking technique for Parende is very quick. Fish is added to boiling water that has been seasoned, cooked only until the flesh changes color so that its texture remains tender and does not break apart.

Local Eating Traditions and Etiquette

In Buton, eating Kasami and Parende is a communal ritual. This dish is usually served on a Talam (large tray) in a tradition called Pekande-kandea. Kasami is placed in the center, surrounded by bowls of Parende and other accompaniments such as shrimp paste chili, clear vegetable soup, or small fried fish.

The way of enjoying it is also unique. Kasami is not cut with a knife, but pinched with hands. A pinch of Kasami is then dipped into the hot Parende broth until it absorbs some liquid, and then eaten with pieces of fish. The texture of Kasami, which is dense yet melts in the mouth, combines with the freshness of the sour and spicy broth, creating an unforgettable explosion of flavor.

Preservers of Heritage: From Grandmothers' Kitchens to Modern Restaurants

The existence of Kasami and Parende remains preserved thanks to the role of Buton women who pass down this recipe from generation to generation. In Baubau, there are several legendary culinary spots that are reference points, such as in the Kamali Beach area or eateries around the harbor. Names like "Parende Tanpa Nama" (Nameless Parende) or small warungs in Wameo have become must-visit destinations for travelers.

Some noble families in the Buton Palace still maintain the original recipe for "Parende Keraton" which uses more complex spices and a very detailed fish cleaning technique, ensuring no trace of blood remains so that the broth stays crystal clear.

Cultural Meaning and Food Security

More than just taste, Kasami and Parende are symbols of food security. The use of cassava demonstrates the self-sufficiency of the Buton people in utilizing dry land resources, while the use of fish shows their closeness to the ocean. This dish teaches about balance: produce (Kasami) and seafood (Parende) that come together on one plate.

In every bite of Kasami and Parende, there is a story of resilient sailors, patient farmers, and loving mothers processing nature's bounty. It is a noble heritage that is timeless, an identity that continues to pulse in the heart of Southeast Sulawesi. For anyone who sets foot on Buton land, the journey is incomplete without tasting the warmth of Parende broth and savoring the sweetness of Kasami under the gentle breeze of Baubau Bay.