Kuliner Legendaris

Pepes Ikan Jambal H. Dirja

in Karawang, Jawa Barat

Published: Januari 2025

About

Origins and the H. Dirja Family Legacy

The history of Pepes Ikan Jambal H. Dirja began with the skilled hands of the late H. Dirja and his wife, Hj. Aminah. This business was pioneered in the 1980s, a time when the Walahar Dam area began to be crowded with visitors for tourism or simply fishing. Initially, this warung was just a simple place serving dam workers and local residents.

The consistent superiority of its taste quickly spread the name H. Dirja through word of mouth. The cooking philosophy firmly held by this family is honesty in ingredients and patience in the process. Now, the business is continued by the second generation who still maintain the original recipe without changing a single spice measurement inherited from their father. This is what makes Pepes H. Dirja called a "living legend" in Karawang.

The Uniqueness of Ingredients: Why Jambal Fish?

The main star at this place is, of course, Pepes Ikan Jambal. It is important to understand that the "Jambal" used here is not jambal roti (salted fish), but Jambal Siam fish or a type of river catfish with a tender flesh texture and a savory fat content.

Jambal fish is chosen because its flesh characteristics can absorb spices perfectly without disintegrating during the long steaming process. Fish freshness is paramount; every day, fresh fish supplies are brought in directly to ensure no fishy odor remains in the dish.

Kitchen Secrets: Traditional Cooking Techniques

One of the reasons why Pepes I. Dirja is unmatched is its still very traditional cooking method. In this modern era where many restaurants switch to gas stoves or electric ovens, H. Dirja's kitchen remains loyal to using a wood-fired stove (hawu).

The use of firewood imparts a distinctive smoky aroma that cannot be replicated by modern technology. The cooking process is also not arbitrary:

1. Cleaning and Marination: The fish is cleaned meticulously, then coated with lime juice and salt to remove slime.

2. Spice Preparation: The finely ground spices, consisting of turmeric, ginger, candlenuts, shallots, garlic, and red chilies, are coarsely pounded to maintain texture.

3. Wrapping: Pieces of jambal fish are placed on banana leaves (leaves that are not easily torn), then covered with abundant ground spices, along with slices of green tomato, basil leaves, lemongrass, and bay leaves.

4. Double Steaming: The secret to its tenderness lies in the steaming duration, which can take hours until the bones soften and the spices penetrate deep into the meat fibers.

Exploring the Signature Menu

Besides Pepes Ikan Jambal, which is the primadonna, this eatery offers other pepes variations that are no less appetizing:

  • Pepes Jamur and Pepes Teri: Using the same basic spices but with different textures, offering options for visitors who want flavor variations.
  • Pepes Jeroan and Pepes Ayam: For lovers of land cuisine, the chicken pepes here are known to be very tender with yellow spices that penetrate to the bone.
  • Sate Maranggi: As a complement, there is West Javanese sate maranggi, grilled with a spicy soy sauce.
  • Sayur Asem: Karawang's signature sayur asem, which tends to be clear, fresh, and has a perfect sweet-sour balance, serves as a perfect palate cleanser after enjoying the richly spiced pepes.

Cultural Context and Dining Traditions in Walahar

Eating Pepes H. Dirja is not just about taste, but also a cultural experience. The eatery is located not far from the Walahar Dam, built during the Dutch colonial era (1925). The rural atmosphere with a gentle breeze from the Citarum River adds to the enjoyment of dining.

The dining culture here is strongly imbued with Sundanese nuances. Dishes are served on long wooden tables or lesehan (floor seating). Warm white rice served in bamboo baskets (boboko) is a mandatory accompaniment. In Karawang, there is a tradition that a meal is not complete without crackers and spicy sambal dadak (freshly made chili paste).

The interaction within the warung reflects the friendliness of the local community. Although often very crowded, the service is maintained with a family atmosphere. It's not uncommon for visitors to see the pepes wrapping process directly in the semi-open kitchen area, providing transparency that every dish is handmade.

Culinary Significance and Local Heritage

Pepes Ikan Jambal H. Dirja has become an identity for Karawang. If Yogyakarta has Gudeg and Palembang has Pempek, then Karawang has Pepes Walahar. The existence of this place also has a significant impact on the local economy, from absorbing local labor to empowering suppliers of banana leaves and local fish.

Many national figures, from ministers to governors, make this place a mandatory stop when passing through the Pantura route or on a work visit to Karawang. This proves that traditional cuisine managed with high consistency can break through social barriers.

Why Visit?

Amidst the onslaught of modern culinary trends that often rely solely on visual appeal (instagramable), Pepes Ikan Jambal H. Dirja is a reminder that taste is the main essence. Its deliciousness comes from slow time in a fast-paced world—time to manually pound spices, time to steam over a quiet wood fire, and time to keep the recipe unchanged for decades.

For anyone visiting Karawang, missing Pepes H. Dirja means missing half of the city's culinary soul. The aroma of lightly burnt banana leaves, the tenderness of jambal fish that melts in your mouth, and the warmth of its sambal dadak are a symphony of flavors that will always call every palate to return home to Walahar.

Pepes Ikan Jambal H. Dirja is not just food; it is a story of perseverance, respect for nature through its ingredients, and a family's love for ancestral heritage that continues to steam from behind its wood-fired stove.

📋 Visit Information

address
Jl. Bendungan Walahar, Kec. Klari, Karawang
entrance fee
Harga mulai Rp 20.000 per porsi
opening hours
Setiap hari, 09:00 - 19:00

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