Tegowangi Temple

Tegowangi Temple: The Grand Resting Place of Bhre Matahun in the Heart of Kediri

Tegowangi Temple is one of the most significant ancient relics from the golden era of Majapahit, located in Tegowangi Village, Plemahan District, Kediri Regency, East Java. As a monument that blends architectural beauty with ancient literary narratives, this temple is not merely a pile of andesite stones, but a symbol of the final tribute to one of the important figures in the Majapahit hierarchy of power.

Historical Background and Establishment

Based on data recorded in the Nagarakretagama scripture, canto 82:2, Tegowangi Temple is identified as the place of pendharmaan (worship/ashes repository) for Bhre Matahun. Bhre Matahun, whose real name was Rajasawardhana, was the brother-in-law of King Hayam Wuruk. He married Hayam Wuruk's younger sister, named Rajasaduhita Indudewi (Bhre Lasem).

Although the Nagarakretagama scripture states that Bhre Matahun passed away in 1388 AD, the construction of this temple is estimated to have been completed several years later, around 1400 AD. This is based on the style of reliefs and ornaments, which show a transition from the classic Majapahit style to a more detailed and narrative style. This site administratively falls under the jurisdiction of Kadiri (Kediri), which at that time was one of the most important vassal territories for the Majapahit central government in Trowulan.

Architecture and Construction Details

Tegowangi Temple is built using andesite stone with a square base measuring 11.2 x 11.2 meters. Structurally, the temple faces west, an orientation commonly found in East Javanese temples that served as places of pendharmaan or worship for the deceased.

One of the architectural unique features of Tegowangi Temple is its seemingly "unfinished" appearance at the top. Currently, only the base of the temple (sub-structure) and a small part of the temple body remain standing. The roof is gone, either due to natural processes or because its construction was halted due to internal Majapahit conflicts (such as the Paregreg War) that occurred shortly after Hayam Wuruk's death.

The temple base is approximately 4.35 meters high. Surrounding the base is a wide courtyard made of red brick arrangements, which serves as a boundary for the sacred area. At the western entrance stairs, there are remnants of stair cheeks adorned with delicate makara carvings, reflecting the high aesthetic of the carving art of that era.

The Sudamala Relief Narrative

The main attraction of Tegowangi Temple lies in the series of reliefs carved around its base. These reliefs tell the story of Sudamala, a fragment from the Old Javanese version of the Mahabharata epic. This story focuses on Sadewa's (the youngest of the Pandawa) effort to meruwat (purify) Dewi Durga, who was in the form of a giantess (Uma), back into a beautiful goddess.

The Sudamala relief carvings at Tegowangi Temple consist of several main panels:

1. Sadewa Meets Kunti: Narrates Kunti's initial command to Sadewa to meruwat Durga.
2. Sadewa's Devotion to Durga: Depicts Sadewa tied to a kapok tree as a sacrifice, yet remaining steadfast in his meditation.
3. The Purification Process: The climax scene where Sadewa successfully purifies Durga with the help of Batara Guru.
4. Battle with Kalantaka and Kalanjaya: After the purification, Sadewa must face other giants as a final test.

The use of the Sudamala story in this temple has a deep symbolic meaning. Since this temple served as Bhre Matahun's place of pendharmaan, the reliefs are intended as a prayer or magical means to purify the deceased's soul so that it can return to the divine realm in a state free from all worldly impurities.

Cultural and Religious Significance

Religiously, Tegowangi Temple is Siwaistic. This is evidenced by the discovery of several statues around the site, such as statues of Parwati, Ganesha, and remnants of lingga-yoni, which are symbols of fertility and worship of Lord Siwa. The presence of the yoni in the middle of the temple's ruined body indicates that the primary function of this building was as a place for fertility rituals as well as ancestor worship.

Another unique feature of this site is the presence of several "Gana" statues (dwarf supporting creatures) carved at the corners of the temple base. The position of the Gana, seemingly carrying the heavy burden of the building, is a characteristic of East Javanese architecture rarely found with such exquisite detail as in Tegowangi.

Preservation and Restoration Efforts

The Tegowangi Temple site was rediscovered buried in the ground and overgrown with bushes during the Dutch colonial period. Initial cleaning and data collection were carried out by the archaeological service of the Dutch East Indies government (Oudheidkundige Dienst). However, systematic restoration was only carried out by the Indonesian Government through the Directorate of Protection and Development of Historical and Ancient Heritage.

Currently, Tegowangi Temple is managed by the Cultural Preservation Center (BPK) Region XI. The surrounding environment has been landscaped into a beautiful garden, which not only functions to protect the stone structure from erosion but also as an educational tourism destination. The main challenge in preserving this temple is the weathering of the andesite stone due to moss growth and extreme weather conditions, given the temple's open top without natural roof protection.

Unique Facts and Conclusion

One rarely known unique fact is the presence of brick building remnants on the southeast side of the temple, which are suspected to be part of the residential complex of priests or temple administrators in the past. This indicates that Tegowangi Temple was not a single building, but a religious complex integrated with the surrounding settlements.

Tegowangi Temple stands as a silent witness to the past glory of Kediri under the umbrella of Majapahit. Through its Sudamala reliefs, this temple teaches about the concept of atonement and purification of the soul, a noble value that remains relevant across ages. As an invaluable historical heritage, its existence serves as a bridge for modern generations to understand the complex social structures, spirituality, and artistic achievements of Indonesia's ancestors in the land of East Java.