Kuliner Legendaris

Sate Bulayak Suranadi

in West Lombok, Nusa Tenggara Barat

Published: Januari 2025

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Harmony of Flavors: What is Sate Bulayak?

Sate Bulayak consists of two inseparable main elements: "Sate" itself and "Bulayak." Unlike typical satay in Indonesia, which often uses peanut or soy sauce, Sate Bulayak uses a special sauce called bumbu pelalah. This sauce has a liquid yet rich texture, resulting from a blend of thick coconut milk and various selected spices.

"Bulayak" refers to a type of lontong (rice cake) wrapped in young enau or nira (sugar palm) leaves. The use of these enau leaves gives it a distinctive fragrant aroma and a softer, smoother texture compared to lontong wrapped in banana leaves. Its shape is also unique, being round and elongated, spirally wound, which requires a special technique in its preparation.

Historical Roots and Philosophy Behind the Bulayak Wrap

The history of Sate Bulayak is deeply rooted in the traditions of the Sasak community in West Lombok. In the past, this dish was not a commercial food found on the roadside every day. Sate Bulayak was a sacred dish served in traditional ceremonies, victory celebrations, or religious rituals in the villages around Suranadi and Narmada.

Philosophically, the spiral wrapping method of Bulayak holds deep meaning. The spiral symbolizes the connection between humans and the Creator, as well as the strong and harmonious bonds that should exist between fellow humans. Unwrapping the Bulayak before eating is considered a small ritual that trains patience, where one must follow the path of the leaf to reach its core.

Kitchen Secrets: Main Ingredients and Preparation Techniques

The specialty of Sate Bulayak lies in the quality of its raw ingredients. The meat used is usually choice beef, but what is most sought after by true culinary enthusiasts are the offal satay (liver, intestines) and fat satay (fatty cuts).

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1. Bulayak Preparation Process

The preparation of Bulayak begins with washing the rice thoroughly, then soaking it briefly. The rice is then placed inside the enau leaf wraps, shaped into long cones. Enau leaves are chosen because they give the cooked rice a beautiful ivory-yellow color. The Bulayak is then boiled for approximately 4 to 5 hours to ensure its texture is perfectly cooked and chewy.

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2. The Bumbu Pelalah Recipe

This is the heart of Sate Bulayak. The bumbu pelalah is made from a mixture of thick coconut milk cooked with bird's eye chilies, shallots, garlic, galangal, turmeric, and a little candlenut. The key to its deliciousness lies in the process of cooking the coconut milk until it releases oil and turns reddish. The resulting flavor is a blend of the savory coconut milk, a biting spiciness, and a strong aroma of spices.

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3. Grilling Technique

The beef is cut into small pieces, then coated with a little seasoning before being grilled. Grilling is done over charcoal or coconut shell embers. The grilling technique is done quickly so that the meat remains juicy (tender inside) but has a pleasant smoky aroma on the outside. Before serving, the cooked satay is dipped again into the thick bumbu pelalah to ensure every strand of meat is coated with the sauce.

Suranadi: Center of Culinary Legend

Although Sate Bulayak can be found in several corners of Mataram City, Suranadi is still considered the "Mecca" of Sate Bulayak. The cool Suranadi Tourist Area, surrounded by protected forests and sacred springs, provides a different atmosphere.

Here, there are traces of families who have passed down the original Sate Bulayak recipe through generations. The vendors in Suranadi are usually local residents who have been selling for decades. They maintain the tradition by not replacing the enau leaves with plastic or banana leaves, even though enau leaves are now increasingly difficult to obtain. This authentic taste makes local and international tourists willing to travel far to West Lombok just for a portion of authentic Sate Bulayak.

Eating Traditions and Local Etiquette

There is a unique way of enjoying Sate Bulayak according to local customs. Unlike satay in Java, which is often eaten with a spoon and fork, Sate Bulayak is best enjoyed directly with hands.

Visitors usually unwrap the Bulayak leaves one by one, then dip the rice cake pieces directly into a plate filled with abundant bumbu pelalah. After that, the meat satay is eaten as a complement. This tradition creates a more intimate interaction between the diner and their food. In the warungs around Suranadi, visitors often sit on berugaq (traditional Sasak gazebos), eating together from one large tray in a tradition called Begibung, which symbolizes social equality.

Distinguishing Uniqueness

Sate Bulayak has several specific characteristics not found in other satay dishes in Indonesia:

  • Sauce Texture: Does not use peanuts as the main ingredient, so the texture is not coarse, but smooth and oily due to the coconut milk.
  • Enau Leaf Aroma: Enau leaves contain natural substances that give Bulayak a distinctive fragrant aroma, which cannot be replicated by banana leaves.
  • Distinct Lombok Spiciness: The use of Lombok's signature bird's eye chilies (cabai plecing) provides a fresh and sharp level of spiciness, yet it remains comfortable on the throat as it is balanced by the savory coconut milk.

Preservation of Cultural Heritage

Currently, Sate Bulayak has been designated as Intangible Cultural Heritage by the local government. This effort is made to protect traditional recipes from excessive modernization. Local chefs in Suranadi remain faithful to traditional methods, such as pounding spices using large stone mortars instead of grinders, to maintain flavor consistency.

For the people of West Lombok, Sate Bulayak is not just an economic commodity. It is a historical bridge connecting past and present generations. Every skewer of satay and every wrap of bulayak carries stories of Suranadi's fertile land and its people's wisdom in processing natural resources.

The Closing Taste

Enjoying Sate Bulayak Suranadi is a complete sensory experience. The eyes are delighted by the unique shape of the bulayak, the nose is enticed by the aroma of smoke and nira leaves, and the tongue is satisfied by the explosion of spicy-savory flavors of the bumbu pelalah. If you are in West Nusa Tenggara, make time to visit Suranadi. Under the shade of the trees and the sound of trickling sacred water, Sate Bulayak awaits to tell its legendary story through every unforgettable bite.

πŸ“‹ Visit Information

address
Kawasan Wisata Suranadi, Kecamatan Narmada, Kabupaten Lombok Barat
entrance fee
Rp 25.000 - Rp 40.000 per porsi
opening hours
Setiap hari, 09:00 - 18:00

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