Toko Oen Malang

Tracing the Taste of Toko Oen Malang: Colonial Heritage in Every Bite

Malang City is not only known for its cool air and sweet apples, but also as a guardian of historical memory through its colonial buildings. In the heart of the city, precisely at Jalan Jenderal Basuki Rahmat No. 5, stands a culinary institution that has become an icon across generations: Toko Oen Malang. More than just a restaurant, Toko Oen is a time machine that transports its visitors back to the Tempo Doeloe era, where the harmony between European and local cultures blended into timeless delicacies.

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History and Philosophy: "Welkom in Malang, Toko Oen Die Sinds 1930 Aan de Gasten Gezelligheid Geeft"

Toko Oen has a history that stretches far before Indonesia's independence. The name "Oen" is taken from its founder, Ny. Liem Gien Nio (wife of Mr. Oen Tjoen Hok), who first opened a cake shop in Yogyakarta in 1910. Expansion to Malang was made in 1930, and since then, Toko Oen has become a favorite gathering place for the Dutch elite, colonial officials, and intellectuals of that era.

Its famous slogan, "Welkom in Malang, Toko Oen Die Sinds 1930 Aan de Gasten Gezelligheid Geeft" (Welcome to Malang, Toko Oen that has been serving hospitality to guests since 1930), is not just words. The interior design remains preserved with comfortable low rattan chairs, large glass windows overlooking the street (Kajoetangan), and old tile floors that provide a strong nostalgic atmosphere.

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Masterpieces of Traditional Ice Cream: No Preservatives, Full of Character

One of the main attractions that has kept Toko Oen relevant for almost a century is its ice cream. Unlike mass-produced modern ice cream, Toko Oen's ice cream is produced using the original recipe from the 1930s.

Oen's Special is a must-try menu for culinary travelers. This ice cream consists of three scoops of different flavors—usually chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry—served with whipped cream, a cherry, and a piece of crispy wafer. The uniqueness of the ice cream here lies in its slightly "coarse" or sandy texture, which is a characteristic of handmade ice cream without chemical emulsifiers. The ingredients are purely fresh cow's milk, real sugar, and natural fruit or spice extracts.

The production method still relies on old techniques that maintain a consistent temperature to prevent the formation of overly large ice crystals. The Tutti Frutti flavor at Toko Oen is also legendary, serving pieces of dried fruit in soft ice cream, providing a contrasting textural sensation.

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Bistik and Main Courses: The Taste of Indische Keuken

Toko Oen's kitchen is a laboratory where *Indische Keuken* (Dutch East Indies cuisine) recipes are preserved. The most sought-after main dish is Bistik Lidah (Ox Tongue Steak). The beef tongue is processed through a very long boiling process with spices until it reaches perfect tenderness. Afterward, the tongue is thinly sliced and doused with a rich chocolate sauce (gravy) flavored with nutmeg and black pepper.

Besides Bistik Lidah, there is Huzarensla, a typical Dutch salad consisting of a mixture of potatoes, carrots, beets, boiled eggs, and pieces of meat, all dressed with homemade mayonnaise that has a unique fresh sour taste. The use of beets gives this salad a beautiful pink color, a detail rarely found in modern restaurants.

Traditional cooking techniques such as slow cooking for meat and the use of charcoal grills for certain menu items ensure that the smoky aroma and depth of flavor are preserved, just as they were enjoyed by Dutch officers decades ago.

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Pastry and Cookie Display: Family Secret Recipes

Stepping into the front of the shop, visitors are greeted by rows of large glass jars filled with various cookies (*koekjes*). Favorite choices not to be missed are Kaasstengels (cheese cookies) and Kattetongen (cat's tongue cookies). The secret to their deliciousness lies in the use of a large amount of high-quality butter, without margarine, so these cookies melt in your mouth.

There is also Gevulde Koek, a dense yet soft Dutch almond cookie. Each recipe is passed down through generations of the Oen family, with strict supervision over ingredient quality. The use of spices like cinnamon, cloves, and walnuts in their cookies creates a very distinctive Northern European flavor profile with a touch of local Indonesian ingredients.

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Cultural Context and Local Dining Traditions

Toko Oen is not just a place to eat; it is a guardian of the Gezelligheid tradition—a Dutch concept referring to a cozy, relaxed, and convivial atmosphere. Here, time seems to slow down. There is no loud music or dazzling neon lighting; only the gentle murmur of conversations among guests and the clinking of spoons against glasses.

For the people of Malang, Toko Oen is a place where family history is written. Many families make it a tradition to celebrate birthdays or family gatherings here, ensuring that younger generations continue to know the authentic taste of the past. For foreign tourists, especially from the Netherlands, visiting Toko Oen is often a nostalgic journey to seek traces of their ancestors.

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Architectural Uniqueness and Service

Toko Oen's uniqueness also shines through its waiters. Some of them have worked for decades, wearing neat, clean white uniforms—reminding us of the service style of formal restaurant waiters in the past. The building itself is an example of well-preserved colonial architecture, with high ceilings that allow for natural air circulation, keeping the room cool even without excessive air conditioning.

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Conclusion: Preserving Heritage Amidst Modernity

Amidst the onslaught of trendy cafes and fast food in Malang, Toko Oen remains a strong legendary culinary fortress. Their consistency in maintaining original recipes, traditional preparation methods, and historical atmosphere is the key to its longevity.

Enjoying a plate of Bistik Lidah followed by a glass of Oen's Special ice cream under the shade of this historic building is the best way to appreciate the rich culture of East Java. Toko Oen Malang is not just about taste on the tongue, but about appreciating history, respecting tradition, and celebrating togetherness in authentic simplicity. For anyone setting foot in Malang, Toko Oen is a must-visit destination to experience the true "taste of history."