Pindang Patin Sekayu
in Musi Banyuasin, Sumatera Selatan
Published: Januari 2025
About
The Philosophy Behind the Golden Yellow Broth
Pindang Patin Sekayu is a representation of a rich river ecosystem. The name "Sekayu" refers to the capital of Musi Banyuasin Regency, an area bisected by the wide Musi River. It is here that Patin fish (Pangasius) thrives in its natural habitat. The characteristic of Pindang Patin Sekayu lies in its very specific balance of flavors: a fresh sourness, a biting spiciness, and a subtle sweetness, combined with a sharp aroma of spices without the use of coconut milk.
Culturally, pindang reflects the practical yet quality-conscious lifestyle of river communities. In the past, fishermen and housewives in Sekayu processed fresh catches with spices readily available in their home gardens. The boiling (pindang) technique was chosen to maintain the freshness of the fish while ensuring the tender texture of the patin meat was not destroyed.
Anatomy of Flavor: Ingredients and Kitchen Secrets
What distinguishes Pindang Patin Sekayu from other pindang is the distinctive use of "Asam Kandis" and "Terasi Sekayu." The Patin fish used should ideally be River Patin, not pond-raised Patin, as it has richer fat and denser meat without a muddy odor.
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Main Spice Composition:
1. Fresh Patin Fish: The head and body (belly fat) are the most sought-after parts.
2. Ground Spices: Turmeric (for golden yellow color), ginger, galangal, and curly red chilies.
3. Sliced/Whole Spices: Bruised lemongrass, bay leaves, and galangal.
4. Sour Agents: Slices of cherry tomatoes (tomat ranti) and Palembang pineapple, providing a tropical freshness.
5. Natural Flavor Enhancer: Signature Sekayu shrimp paste (belacan) made from small river shrimp, imparting a deep umami aroma.
6. Basil and Scallions: Added at the end of the process for an explosive aromatic scent when served.
Traditional Cooking Techniques
The uniqueness of Pindang Patin Sekayu lies in its cooking order. The spices are not sautéed with oil but boiled with water until boiling and the raw aroma of turmeric disappears. This technique keeps the broth clear and free from excess oil, allowing the original flavor of the patin fish to stand out.
The patin fish is added when the spice water is already boiling vigorously. This is important to "lock in" the fish essence and prevent any fishy smell. Pineapple is added midway through the process to help soften the fish fibers while providing a natural sweet-sour taste that permeates down to the bones. In Sekayu, the use of firewood in the cooking process is still considered the best method to produce a subtle smoky aroma in the pindang broth.
Culinary Heritage and Legendary Figures
Talking about Pindang Patin Sekayu is inseparable from the legendary eateries that have stood for decades along the Trans-Sumatra highway and in the city center of Sekayu. One name often mentioned is "Pindang Simpang Sekayu" or home-style warungs in the Balai Agung Village area, whose recipes have been passed down through generations via the maternal line (mother to daughter).
Families in Sekayu have their own secret spice ratios. Some add a little lime juice at the end, while others rely heavily on the quality of the shrimp paste they make themselves. The skill of processing patin so it doesn't fall apart when reheated multiple times is a highly valued skill in this community.
Eating Tradition: "Ngobeng" Custom and Togetherness
In Musi Banyuasin, serving Pindang Patin is a form of the highest respect for guests. During traditional ceremonies or weddings, there is the "Ngobeng" tradition or "Lesehan Serving," where Pindang Patin is the main dish in the center of the guests' circle.
The way to enjoy it also has its own etiquette. Pindang Patin Sekayu is rarely eaten alone. It must be accompanied by:
- Raw Vegetables: Such as small eggplants (terung gelatik), long beans, and sweet potato leaves.
- Fruit Sambal: Spicy-sour young mango sambal or pineapple sambal.
- Warm Rice: Fluffy white rice that will be doused with the abundant pindang broth.
For the people of Sekayu, sipping pindang broth directly from the bowl in hot weather is the best way to boost energy. The spicy and sour sensation is believed to improve blood circulation and refresh the body.
Pindang Patin in the Context of Modernity
Although times have changed, Pindang Patin Sekayu remains a favorite. Currently, this dish has migrated to upscale restaurants in Jakarta and Palembang. However, true culinary enthusiasts agree that the experience of tasting Pindang Patin directly in the land of Serasan Sekate (Muba's motto) is unparalleled. The taste of the local river water and the freshness of fish just pulled from the fishermen's nets provide a dimension of flavor that cannot be replicated elsewhere.
The Musi Banyuasin Regency government also continues to promote Pindang Patin as a culinary tourism attraction. Pindang Festivals are often held to celebrate the diversity of recipes from various sub-districts, but the signature Sekayu Pindang remains the gold standard or benchmark for the deliciousness of this dish.
Conclusion: More Than Just Taste
Pindang Patin Sekayu is a narrative about the human relationship with the river. Every bite contains the history of how the ancestors of the Muba people adapted to their natural wealth. It is a blend of simple ingredients and complex processing techniques that result in a harmony of flavors. For anyone visiting South Sumatra, missing Pindang Patin Sekayu means missing half of the culinary soul of this Malay land. It is a legend that continues to simmer in the pots of Sekayu kitchens, keeping tradition alive through the eternal aroma of turmeric and asam kandis.
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