Candi Lor

The Dawn of Isyana Mataram: Tracing the Splendor and History of Candi Lor Nganjuk

Candi Lor is not merely a pile of red bricks weathered by time. Located in Candirejo Village, Loceret District, Nganjuk Regency, East Java, this site is a silent monument marking one of the most crucial power transitions in Nusantara's history. As the genesis of Nganjuk Regency, Candi Lor played a vital role as the region's "birth certificate" and a symbol of the political center shifting from Central Java to East Java.

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Historical Origins and the Anjuk Ladang Inscription

The establishment of Candi Lor is closely linked to Mpu Sindok, the first king of the Medang Kingdom's East Javanese period (Ancient Mataram). Based on archaeological data correlated with the Anjuk Ladang Inscription found at the site, this temple was built around 937 AD (859 Saka).

The construction of this temple was a form of appreciation or "gift" from Mpu Sindok to the people of Anjuk Ladang. The local community at that time was deemed to have greatly assisted the king's forces in repelling attacks from the Sriwijaya Kingdom, which attempted to expand eastward. As a token of gratitude and recognition (Sima), Mpu Sindok designated the Anjuk Ladang region as a perdikan (tax-free area) and established a sacred building that we now know as Candi Lor. The name "Anjuk Ladang" itself later became the origin of the name "Nganjuk," meaning "Glorious Victory."

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Unique Architecture and Construction Materials

Architecturally, Candi Lor exhibits unique characteristics compared to temples in Central Java, which generally use andesite stone. This temple is built using large red bricks, a hallmark of the early transition towards East Javanese architectural style. The use of red bricks indicates an adaptation to the availability of local materials in the Nganjuk lowlands.

The current structure of Candi Lor is indeed no longer intact. The roof and parts of the temple's body have collapsed, leaving the base and some of the body still standing. The most iconic feature of this site is the presence of a giant kepuh tree growing directly above the temple ruins. The tree's roots tightly grip the red brick structure, as if forming a natural skeleton to prevent the building from completely collapsing. This phenomenon creates an exotic and mystical landscape, where nature and history merge in a fragile symbiosis.

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Historical Significance and Connection to Mpu Sindok

Candi Lor is a monument of victory. In historical records, Mpu Sindok's reign was a period of great transition where the center of government was moved from Central Java to East Java due to the devastating eruption of Mount Merapi and constant threats from the Sriwijaya Kingdom.

This temple serves as physical evidence that Mpu Sindok succeeded in consolidating his power in East Java with full support from the local populace. The success in repelling the Malay (Sriwijaya) forces at Anjuk Ladang ensured the stability of the Isyana Dynasty, which later produced great kings like Airlangga and eventually led to the kings of Singasari and Majapahit. Without the victory event immortalized at Candi Lor, the historical map of East Java might be very different.

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Religious and Cultural Functions

Although its condition is now damaged, archaeologists believe that Candi Lor, in its prime, functioned as a place of Hindu worship. This is based on the discovery of inscriptions and several statue fragments around the site. As a sacred building (Jayastambha or victory monument), this temple was used for ritual offerings to the gods as a form of gratitude for war victories and regional prosperity.

For modern Nganjuk society, Candi Lor holds a very high cultural standing. Every year, this site becomes the center of the commemoration procession for the Nganjuk Regency's Anniversary. The community holds a cultural parade from Candi Lor to the city center, carrying replicas of the Anjuk Ladang Inscription and offerings of agricultural produce. This demonstrates that the sacredness of the temple remains preserved across thousands of years.

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Preservation Status and Restoration Challenges

The current condition of Candi Lor is under the supervision of the Cultural Preservation Center (BPK) Region XI. The biggest challenge in preserving this site is natural factors. The kepuh tree growing on top of the temple is in a dilemmatic position; on one hand, its roots help bind the bricks to prevent collapse, but on the other hand, the growing roots exert mechanical pressure that can destroy the red brick structure from within.

Physical restoration efforts are very difficult to undertake without damaging the centuries-old tree. Therefore, the steps currently taken by the relevant authorities are preventive conservation, which includes maintaining the cleanliness of the area, documenting the remaining structures, and strengthening its historical narrative as an educational tourism object. Safety fences have been installed around the temple to prevent further damage from human activity.

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Unique Facts: From Name to Inscription Discovery

There are several unique facts that make Candi Lor stand out. First, the name "Lor" in Javanese means "North." This is because of its location north of the ancient administrative center in the region. Second, the Anjuk Ladang Inscription found here is now stored at the National Museum of Indonesia in Jakarta due to its invaluable historical significance, though a replica is still honored in Nganjuk.

Third, Candi Lor is one of the few sites with a very specific construction date recorded through its supporting inscription, making it an important chronological benchmark for historians to map the early development of the Isyana Dynasty in East Java.

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Conclusion: A Heritage to Be Protected

Candi Lor is the historical heart of Nganjuk. It is not just a pile of brick ruins entwined with roots, but a symbol of courage, sovereignty, and a king's gratitude to his people. As a site marking the beginning of a great civilization in East Java, the preservation of Candi Lor is a collective responsibility. Protecting Candi Lor means safeguarding the nation's collective memory of how victory was achieved through unity between leaders and the people, a moral message that remains relevant to this day.