Pindang Tulang Khas PALI
in Penukal Abab Lematang Ilir Regency, Sumatera Selatan
Published: Januari 2025
About
Philosophy and Cultural Significance
Historically, the "pindang" tradition in South Sumatra is rooted in the community's adaptation to a geography dominated by large rivers. However, unlike other regions that emphasize fish pindang, the people of PALI have a special connection with Pindang Tulang. In the past, this dish was exclusive, often served only during major celebrations such as weddings (sedekah), circumcisions, or the welcoming of esteemed guests.
Pindang Tulang reflects the philosophy of utilizing all parts of livestock (cattle or buffalo) without waste. The marrow hidden within the large bones is considered a "treasure" symbolizing prosperity. For the people of PALI, serving Pindang Tulang to guests is the highest form of respect, indicating that the host is offering the most valuable and effort-intensive part of the meal.
Characteristics and Flavor Uniqueness
What distinguishes Pindang Tulang Khas PALI from pindang from other regions like Pegagan or Meranjat? The answer lies in the balance of its broth's flavor and texture.
Pindang Tulang PALI tends to have a "bolder" broth with a more concentrated color. The surface of the broth is often adorned with a thin layer of fat that seeps from the bone marrow, providing a natural creamy sensation that blends with sour, spicy, and fresh flavors. The aroma emanating from its hot steam is distinctive—a combination of grilled shrimp paste, lemongrass, and strong basil.
The bones used are typically rib bones or backbone bones that still have remnants of meat (tetelan) and attached fat. PALI's distinctive cooking expertise ensures that the meat is incredibly tender, easily falling off the bone (fall-off-the-bone), yet not disintegrating.
Secrets of Spices and Main Ingredients
The magic of Pindang Tulang PALI lies in the freshness of the local spices used. There are no added chemical ingredients; all flavors are purely derived from nature.
1. Ground Spices: Consist of red chilies, shallots, garlic, and turmeric, which are first grilled to remove any raw aroma.
2. PALI's Signature Shrimp Paste: The use of local shrimp paste (belacan) made from river shrimp provides an umami depth that cannot be replaced by factory-made shrimp paste.
3. Acidifying Agents: The people of PALI rarely use chemical vinegar. The fresh sour taste is obtained from a combination of tamarind, sliced pineapple, and local cherry tomatoes (ranti).
4. Aromatics: Galangal, bruised lemongrass, bay leaves, and most crucially, basil leaves and sliced spring onions, which are added just before serving.
Traditional Cooking Method
The process of making Pindang Tulang PALI requires patience. The technique used is traditional slow cooking. Beef bones are washed thoroughly and boiled in a large pot (often over a wood-fired stove in villages) to remove the initial impurities.
After the first boiling water is discarded, the bones are re-boiled with fresh water until it boils. The ground spices are then added without sautéing first (a pure boiling technique), which makes the pindang broth lighter and less excessively oily compared to gulai.
Pineapple is added in the middle of the boiling process. The bromelain enzyme in pineapple acts as a natural tenderizer for the meat fibers still attached to the bones. The final stage is taste correction with salt and a little palm sugar, then finished with a sprinkle of basil that instantly provides a fresh aroma.
Legendary Destinations and Culinary Figures
In PALI Regency, especially in the Pendopo area (Regency Capital), there are several eateries that have been legendary for decades. Families in areas like Talang Ubi have preserved these secret recipes for generations.
Some local restaurants offer not just taste but also an experience. Here, visitors are often given a special "straw" to suck the marrow from large beef bones. This tradition of sucking marrow is an inseparable part of the Pindang Tulang eating ritual in PALI.
Although many modern restaurants in Palembang now serve similar dishes, true culinary enthusiasts are still willing to make the hours-long land journey to PALI just to taste the authentic version. The freshness of the water, the quality of local beef bones, and the region's distinctive shrimp paste create a flavor profile that is difficult to replicate elsewhere.
Eating Etiquette and Side Dishes
Enjoying Pindang Tulang PALI has its own etiquette. This dish is rarely eaten alone. It is usually accompanied by a plate of warm white rice, fruit sambal (like mango sambal or pineapple sambal), and fresh raw vegetables, which in the local language are called "lalap-lalapan."
Commonly used raw vegetables include cashew leaves, cucumber, long beans, and young jengkol or petai for those who enjoy them. The combination of the hot, spicy-sour pindang broth with the freshness of raw vegetables creates a symphony of textures in the mouth. For the people of PALI, the moment of eating pindang tulang is a time to strengthen kinship, where families sit in a circle and share stories amidst the clinking of spoons against bones.
Preserving Heritage in the Modern Era
The PALI Regency government is now beginning to recognize Pindang Tulang as a potential tourism asset. In various cultural festivals and regency anniversaries, Pindang Tulang cooking competitions are often held to ensure that the younger generation continues to master these ancestral cooking techniques.
Digitalization efforts are also emerging, with MSME actors in PALI starting to package instant pindang spices and frozen beef bones for shipment outside the region. However, for the local community, the essence of Pindang Tulang remains the freshness of ingredients cooked directly in home kitchens or simple roadside stalls.
Conclusion
Pindang Tulang Khas PALI is a tangible testament to the intangible cultural richness owned by South Sumatra. It is not just a dish, but a narrative about the history, nature, and character of the warm and open people of Penukal Abab Lematang Ilir.
Every drop of its broth holds stories of flowing rivers, fertile pineapple plantations, and the skilled hands of mothers who kept the hearth fires burning. For anyone visiting South Sumatra, missing out on Pindang Tulang PALI means missing one of the most authentic and mouthwatering culinary achievements of the archipelago. This dish will continue to stand as a legend, reminding us that within the simplicity of local ingredients lies a timeless richness of flavor.
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