Gulai Remis Seluma

Philosophy and Origin of Gulai Remis

Etymologically, "Remis" refers to a type of small freshwater or brackish water clam with a relatively flat, brownish shell. In Seluma, remis are abundant along the river flows and coastal areas such as Seluma Beach and the river mouths that cross the regency.

Historically, Gulai Remis was not merely a luxurious dish for the nobility, but a dish of the common people born from a spirit of subsistence. In the past, collecting remis or "meremis" was a communal activity undertaken by women and children during low tide. The catch was then processed with simple kitchen spices available in the yard, such as turmeric, galangal, and coconut. Over time, this recipe was perfected through generations, becoming an iconic dish that must be served at traditional ceremonies, wedding parties (bimbang), and to welcome honored guests.

Main Ingredient: The Uniqueness of Seluma Remis

The specialty of Gulai Remis Seluma lies in the freshness of its main ingredient. The remis used are typically of the Corbicula species that live at the bottom of sandy rivers. Unlike sea clams which have a chewy and fibrous meat texture, Seluma remis have a soft, savory texture and a distinctive "earthy" aroma.

The cleaning process of the remis is the most crucial stage. Before cooking, the remis must be soaked in clean water overnight to allow any residual sand inside their shells to come out. After that, the remis are briefly boiled until their shells open, and then the meat is manually separated one by one. The meticulousness in separating the meat from the very small shells is what makes Gulai Remis a dish full of dedication.

Secret Spices and Traditional Cooking Techniques

Gulai Remis Seluma embodies the character of Sumatran cuisine, rich in spices and coconut milk, but with a specific local touch. The basic spices consist of:

1. Ground Spices: Shallots, garlic, red curly chilies (for color and moderate spiciness), roasted turmeric, ginger, and candlenuts.

2. Leaf Spices: Bruised lemongrass, galangal, bay leaves, and most importantly, Daun Mangkokan (Tapak Leman) or sometimes Pakis (Ferns). The use of accompanying vegetables like ferns or sliced daun mangkokan provides a crispy texture and a fresh aroma that balances the richness of the coconut milk.

3. Coconut Milk: Thick coconut milk from manually grated old coconuts is used to maximize natural oil extraction.

The cooking technique uses a slow cooking method over a wood-fired stove. The use of firewood is not just a tradition, but an important element for creating a smoky aroma that permeates the remis meat. The coconut milk is cooked with the spices until boiling and starts to release oil (controlled oil separation), only then is the remis meat added to prevent it from becoming tough.

Legendary Taste

When tasting Gulai Remis Seluma, the first sensation is the savory richness of the coconut milk combined with the spicy bitterness of ginger and galangal. The soft remis meat provides a burst of natural sweetness characteristic of freshwater delicacies. The presence of ferns or daun mangkokan in the gulai adds a "bitter-fresh" flavor dimension that is perfect when eaten with warm white rice.

One of the most sought-after variants is Gulai Remis Rebung Asam. In this variant, the people of Seluma add fermented bamboo shoots (rebung). The sour taste of the rebung provides an extraordinary contrast to the richness of the coconut milk, creating a complex symphony of flavors that awakens the appetite.

Seluma's Culinary Destinations and Figures

If you visit Seluma, the areas along the Trans-Sumatra West Highway, especially in Pasar Seluma and its surroundings, are lined with traditional eateries serving this dish. One of the most famous is the eateries around the long bridge, which serves as a stopover point for travelers.

Although there are many large restaurants, the true delicacy of Gulai Remis is often found in the home kitchens of local residents. Mothers in Seluma are considered the guardians of the original recipe. They maintain the spice proportions intuitively, without scales, yet produce a consistent taste for decades.

Eating Traditions and Cultural Context

In Seluma, eating Gulai Remis is often done with the Nasi Jambar tradition. This is a tradition of eating together from one large tray, symbolizing equality and brotherhood. Gulai Remis is placed in the center, surrounded by rice and other side dishes like sambal kabau or fried jengkol.

Furthermore, there is a local belief that consuming remis can provide physical strength due to its high protein and mineral content. For the coastal communities of Seluma, remis are a gift from nature that must be preserved. Therefore, there is local wisdom to not take remis excessively during certain seasons to maintain the sustainability of the river ecosystem.

Challenges and Preservation

As a legendary culinary dish, Gulai Remis Seluma faces the challenges of modernization. The time-consuming process of preparing remis means that fewer young people are willing to pursue this business. However, the Seluma Regency Government continues to strive to promote this dish through annual culinary festivals and encourages standardization of presentation so that it can be enjoyed by international tourists without losing its original taste.

Gulai Remis is now also being developed in canned or vacuum-sealed forms by several local SMEs in Bengkulu, so that Seluma natives living far away can alleviate their homesickness.

Conclusion

Gulai Remis Seluma is a true portrait of Bengkulu's cultural richness that transcends taste boundaries. It is not just a coconut milk dish with small clams, but a symbol of perseverance, togetherness, and human respect for nature. Enjoying a bowl of Gulai Remis on the shores of Seluma, while breathing in the distinctive coastal air, is a sensory experience that will take anyone into the depths of the "Serasan Seijoan" community's traditions (the motto of Seluma Regency, meaning "one heart, one word"). For true culinary enthusiasts, a trip to Bengkulu is incomplete without stopping by Seluma and savoring the eternal deliciousness of the legendary yellow broth of Gulai Remis.