Ratenggaro Traditional Village
in Southwest Sumba, Nusa Tenggara Timur
Published: Januari 2025
About
Guarding the Sky Above the Towers: The Cultural Depths of Ratenggaro Traditional Village
Ratenggaro Traditional Village is more than just a traditional settlement; it is a spiritual epicenter and a vibrant cultural hub located in Umbu Ngedo Village, Kodi Bangedo District, Southwest Sumba Regency, East Nusa Tenggara. Strategically situated at the confluence of a river estuary and the crashing waves of the Indian Ocean, Ratenggaro stands as a symbol of the Marapu people's resilience in maintaining the balance between nature, humanity, and ancestors. The name "Ratenggaro" itself holds a deep history, derived from the words "Rate" (grave) and "Garo" (the Garo people), referring to a past conquest of tribes that has now transformed into the last bastion of Kodi culture.
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Uma Kelada Architecture: Symbolism and Character Education Center
The most striking physical characteristic that makes Ratenggaro a premier cultural center is the Uma Kelada, or traditional house with its towering spires. These spires, which can reach heights of 15 to 20 meters, are not merely aesthetic achievements but serve as centers for spiritual education programs for the younger generation.
The community of Ratenggaro organizes informal apprenticeship programs for local youth to learn traditional construction techniques without nails. Each part of the house carries educational meaning: the lower part for livestock (a symbol of dependence on nature), the middle part for human activities (a symbol of social relationships), and the spire as a resting place for ancestors (a symbol of divinity). Through the regular maintenance of the thatched roofs, this community teaches the value of mutual cooperation or Hamayang, where all villagers are involved in the process of renewing the spiritual energy of the building.
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Ikat Weaving and Distinctive Kodi Handicrafts
As a cultural center, Ratenggaro serves as a vital space for the preservation of highly specific craft arts. The distinctive Kodi ikat weaving produced here differs significantly from that of East Sumba. The women in Ratenggaro maintain the tradition of natural dyeing using mengkudu roots for red and indigo plants for a dark blue that approaches black.
Daily activities on the terraces of the traditional houses often transform into open workshops. Tourists and researchers can witness firsthand the process of pahudu (motif application). The motifs woven in Ratenggaro often depict symbols of courage, such as horse motifs, and symbols of protection in the form of mamuli. In addition to weaving, male artisans in Ratenggaro are known for their skill in carving megalithic grave stones scattered around the village. This carving art is a living curriculum for the local community, teaching how to honor lineage through symbols carved onto massive stones weighing tons.
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Traditional Performances: Woleka Dance and Equestrian Skill
Ratenggaro Traditional Village regularly hosts performing arts as part of rituals and welcoming guests. One of the most prominent is the Woleka Dance, a welcome dance accompanied by the booming of gongs and drums. This dance symbolizes joy and brotherhood.
Furthermore, as Ratenggaro is located in the Kodi region, their connection with horse culture is very strong. Equestrian skill demonstration programs are often held on the beach bordering the village. The young men of Ratenggaro are trained from an early age to become knights on horseback without saddles, a skill that culminates in the grand Pasola event. For the people of Ratenggaro, horses are not just a means of transportation but spiritual partners in traditional ceremonies.
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Pasola and Nyale Ceremony: The Pinnacle of Cultural Manifestation
As an integral part of the Marapu belief system, Ratenggaro plays a crucial role in the Pasola ritual. Pasola is a game of skill involving the throwing of wooden spears from horseback at full gallop. Although the main Pasola takes place in a large field, the ritual preparations—including the Nyale ceremony (waiting for the appearance of sea worms)—begin with strict observation by the Rato (traditional leaders) on the Ratenggaro coastline.
The appearance of Nyale on Ratenggaro beach is considered an omen for the future of agriculture and community health. If the Nyale that appear are colorful and plump, it signifies an abundant harvest. The community's involvement in this festival is not merely a spectacle but a form of collective devotion to maintaining cosmic balance. This festival also serves as a time when the Kodi diaspora returns to their hometowns to pay respects at the ancestral stone graves.
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Preservation of Megalithic Heritage and Community Involvement
Ratenggaro boasts a complex of megalithic stone graves, one of which is thousands of years old and located right on the edge of the beach. Preservation efforts by the traditional institutions here are very strict. There are customary rules that prohibit altering the stone structures or taking natural materials from around the site without ritual permission.
This cultural center also functions as a nature school. Children in Ratenggaro are regularly taught family lineage through oral traditions passed down by elders within the traditional houses. This ensures that even as modernization enters through tourism, the identity as Kodi people remains firmly ingrained. Community involvement in managing cultural-based tourism ensures that economic benefits are reinvested in traditional ceremonies and the repair of damaged houses.
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Role in Local Cultural Development
Ratenggaro Traditional Village serves as a cultural anchor in Southwest Sumba. Amidst the onslaught of modern architecture, Ratenggaro consistently maintains its original form, thus becoming a primary reference for local governments and international researchers studying Sumba's sociology and anthropology.
Through its development as a "Traditional Tourist Village," Ratenggaro has successfully demonstrated that preserving old values can go hand-in-hand with economic empowerment. Programs such as renting traditional attire for visitors are not just commercial activities but a way to introduce dress etiquette and social symbolism to the outside world. Every fabric worn by a visitor has a story, and every corner of the village has customary laws that must be respected.
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Conclusion: Keeping the Marapu Flame Alive
The uniqueness of Ratenggaro Traditional Village lies in the synchronization between its dramatic geographical location and its timeless spiritual richness. As a cultural center, it does not require modern theater buildings or glass museums. The entire village is a living museum, where every sea breeze carries the aroma of ritual incense and every sound of the crashing waves blends with the traditional songs of the elders.
By keeping the Uma Kelada standing tall against the sky, the people of Ratenggaro ensure that the cultural identity of NTT remains strongly rooted. The preservation efforts undertaken independently by this community serve as a model for other cultural centers in Indonesia on how to maintain cultural sovereignty amidst changing times. Ratenggaro is tangible proof that the past is not something left behind, but rather the foundation that determines the direction of the future.
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