Zangrandi Ice Cream

History and Origins: The Zangrandi Family Legacy

This sweet story began in 1930. Founded by an Italian family, Roberto Zangrandi, the parlor was initially named Ijs Paleis Zangrandi (Zangrandi Ice Palace). Roberto brought his family's time-honored recipes from Italy, which were then combined with the availability of local ingredients in the Dutch East Indies at the time.

In the 1960s, when the Zangrandi family decided to return to their home country, the ownership of the parlor was transferred to a local entrepreneur named Adhi Tanumulia. Although ownership changed, one thing that was strictly maintained was the integrity of the original recipes. To this day, Zangrandi continues to uphold traditional ice cream-making methods without preservatives or artificial sweeteners, making it one of the oldest and most consistent culinary institutions in East Java.

Architecture and Atmosphere: Traversing the Corridors of Time

Entering Zangrandi is a unique sensory experience. High ceilings, large glass windows, and sturdy pillars characterize the Art Deco architectural style popular during the colonial period. The iconic red rattan chairs are neatly arranged on the terrace and in the interior, creating a relaxed yet formal atmosphere—a tradition of Surabaya's upscale "hangouts" from yesteryear that is still preserved today.

The dining culture here is heavily influenced by European customs. Visitors typically come in the afternoon to escape Surabaya's heat, enjoying ice cream while engaging in light conversation. There's no booming music; only the gentle clinking of spoons against crystal glasses and the low murmur of conversations, creating a soothing harmony amidst the city center's hustle and bustle.

Philosophy of Ingredients and Traditional Making Techniques

Zangrandi's main strength lies in the purity of its ingredients. Unlike modern ice creams that often use a lot of air (overrun) and vegetable fats, Zangrandi's ice cream is made using Old-World Style methods.

1. Natural Ingredients: They use pure cow's milk, real cane sugar, and fresh fruits. There are no traces of chemical essences or harsh artificial colors.

2. Distinctive Texture: The ice cream here has a slightly coarse yet dense texture, often referred to in culinary terms as "old-style gelato." This is due to the slow churning process, resulting in very little air content.

3. No Preservatives: Because it does not use preservatives, Zangrandi ice cream has a faster melting point compared to factory-made ice cream. This is a sign of the natural ingredients used.

Iconic Menu and Zangrandi's Specialties

Zangrandi has several signature menu items that have become multi-generational favorites. Each dish has a unique presentation characteristic that has remained unchanged for decades.

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1. Tutti Frutti

This is Zangrandi's masterpiece. Tutti Frutti is served in triangular slices like a tart. This ice cream consists of several layers of flavor with pieces of dried fruit (succade) inside. Its dense texture and the chewy sensation of the dried fruit provide a complex flavor dimension—a blend of sweet, slightly tart, and refreshingly cold.

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2. Macedonia

For lovers of local wisdom combined with Western style, Macedonia is the prime choice. This is ice cream served with fresh fruit toppings and, most uniquely, a splash of a little alcoholic beverage (usually rum) which gives a sharp yet elegant aroma.

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3. Banana Split

Although Banana Splits can be found anywhere, Zangrandi's version remains the gold standard. Three scoops of ice cream (chocolate, vanilla, and strawberry) are placed on a perfectly ripe raja banana split, then topped with coarsely crushed roasted peanuts and a drizzle of homemade chocolate sauce.

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4. Ice Cream Soda

A classic drink that evokes nostalgia. The combination of refreshing soda water with a large scoop of vanilla ice cream creates a gentle, creamy carbonation reaction in the mouth.

Culinary Techniques: The Secret of "Nopia" and Ice Cream Crackers

One of Zangrandi's unique traditions is serving ice cream often accompanied by Nopia, or crispy cookies. The ice cream crackers (wafers) used are also specially made with their own secret kitchen recipe. These wafers not only serve as decoration but also balance the soft texture of the ice cream.

The process of making the chocolate topping is also done traditionally. The liquid chocolate used is not too sweet, leaning towards dark chocolate, to balance the sweetness of the ice cream.

Cultural Context and Social Significance

Zangrandi is more than just a place to eat; it's a witness to the historical development of Surabaya's society. In the past, this place was a meeting point for Dutch elites and local bourgeoisie. However, as time went by, Zangrandi transformed into a democratic yet still prestigious establishment.

For the people of Surabaya, visiting Zangrandi is a family ritual. Many grandparents bring their grandchildren here, recounting that in the same chairs decades ago, they had their first dates. This is what makes Zangrandi a "Living Legend." The parlor has successfully maintained its relevance amidst the onslaught of international ice cream brands by staying true to its "vintage" identity.

Efforts to Preserve Culinary Heritage

Although Zangrandi has now opened several branches in modern malls in Surabaya, its main outlet on Jalan Yos Sudarso remains the primary reference point. The management is very careful in its renovations to avoid damaging the historical value of the building and its furnishings.

The Tanumulia family, as the inheritors of Zangrandi's recipes, ensures that every ice cream chef working there undergoes rigorous training to understand the correct ingredient ratios. They believe that ice cream is an art that involves feeling, not just mass production by industrial machines.

Conclusion: A Culinary Must-Visit in East Java

Visiting Surabaya without stopping by Zangrandi is like visiting Paris without seeing the Eiffel Tower. The unique, unchanged taste of the ice cream since 1930, combined with the atmosphere of the historic building, makes it a destination that offers more than just sweet flavors. Zangrandi is about memories, tradition, and respect for the quality of natural ingredients. In every spoonful of Tutti Frutti or Macedonia ice cream, there lies a long historical trace that remains cool and sweet amidst the heat of Surabaya City.