A Guide to Ambon, Maluku: Sejarah and Menyelam
Introduction
Ambon, the capital of Maluku Province, is often nicknamed "Ambon Manise," meaning sweet or beautiful Ambon. Located in the legendary spice islands, this city is not just a transit point to the remote islands of Banda or Seram, but a destination that holds deep treasures both above and below the sea surface. As one of Indonesia's oldest cities, Ambon offers a unique blend of musical melodies that flow through every street corner, colonial traces that still stand strong, and the sincere hospitality of its local residents.
For travelers, Ambon is a gateway to authentic adventure. Geographically, the city is divided by the deep Ambon Bay, separating the Leitimur and Leihitu peninsulas. Its natural beauty is not limited to sparkling white sandy beaches, but also to its underwater ecosystem, which is a mecca for world macro photographers. Here, world history was once written through the struggle for cloves and nutmeg, and now, new history is being etched through marine conservation and sustainable tourism. This guide will take you through Ambon's historical timeline while diving into its unparalleled underwater wonders.
History & Background
Ambon's history is a history of spices that changed the world map. Long before Europeans set foot in the archipelago, the Maluku Islands were known as the sole source of cloves (Syzygium aromaticum) in the world. This sparked the "Age of Exploration" by great nations. The Portuguese were the first Europeans to arrive in Ambon in 1513, establishing a fort and spreading Catholicism. However, their dominance did not last long after the Dutch, through the VOC (Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie), arrived with greater military force in the early 17th century.
Ambon became an important administrative center for the VOC in the eastern region. It was here that they implemented a strict spice monopoly system, which often led to bloody conflicts with the local population and fierce competition with the British. One of the darkest events in colonial history was the "Amboyna Massacre" in 1623, where VOC soldiers executed English and Japanese traders on charges of conspiracy. For centuries, Ambon was the "crown jewel" for the Dutch in the Dutch East Indies, reflected in the city's architecture and social structure.
After Indonesia's independence, Ambon experienced dynamic transitional periods. Although it suffered from social conflict in the late 1990s, the city has remarkably risen. Currently, Ambon is recognized as the "City of Music" by UNESCO, an acknowledgment of the deep-rooted musical talent of its people. This long and colorful history gives Ambon a strong character; a resilient city, proud of its identity, and always open to those who wish to learn about the roots of Nusantara culture.
Main Attractions
Ambon offers a wide spectrum of tourism, but its two main pillars are historical sites and world-class diving spots.
Traces of History and Culture
One of the must-visit sites is Fort Victoria. Built by the Portuguese in 1575 and later taken over by the Dutch, this fort is a silent witness to various important events, including the place where national hero Pattimura was executed by the colonial government. Although part of the area is used by a military base, the grandeur of its old walls still emanates an aura of the past.
Moving to the north side, there is the Old Immanuel Church in Hila Village. This church is one of the oldest churches in Maluku with well-preserved wooden architecture. Not far from there stands Fort Amsterdam, a VOC defense structure facing the open sea. This fort is unique because its shape resembles a large house rather than a traditional military base. Nearby is also Wapauwe Mosque, built in 1414, making it one of the oldest mosques in Indonesia. The presence of adjacent old churches and mosques is a strong symbol of the "Pela Gandong" spirit, a system of inter-religious brotherhood highly valued by the Maluku people.
Diving Paradise: Muck Diving Capital
For divers, Ambon is a sacred place for Muck Diving. Unlike vast coral reefs like in Raja Ampat, diving in Ambon Bay (Laha) focuses on searching for rare and strange marine creatures on the muddy or dark sandy seabed.
Ambon is home to the very rare *Psychedelic Frogfish*, first discovered here. In addition, you can easily find various species of *Nudibranchs*, *Mimic Octopus*, *Wonderpus*, *Rhinopias*, to *Mandarin Fish* that appear at sunset. Dive sites like Laha 1, 2, and 3 offer varied visibility but unparalleled macro biodiversity in the world.
For those who prefer dramatic underwater scenery, the southern side of Ambon Island offers Hukurila Cave. This is a series of underwater caves and crevices with spectacular rock formations and massive growth of fan corals (Gorgonians). Diving here offers an adrenaline-pumping swim-through experience with sunlight penetrating the cave openings, creating a mystical atmosphere.
Beach Beauty
Don't miss Liang Beach (Hunimua Beach), which was once named the most beautiful beach in Indonesia by the UN in the 1990s. Its fine white sand and the gradation of seawater from light blue to dark blue are very pleasing to the eye. In addition, Natsepa Beach is a popular spot for locals, famous for its legendary rujak culinary.
Travel Tips & Logistics
Visiting Ambon requires careful planning to make your trip effective and enjoyable.
Transportation:
Flights to Ambon land at Pattimura International Airport (AMQ). This airport is located on the Laha side, separated by the bay from the center of Ambon city. To get to the city center, you can use airport taxis, public transport, or cross using a fast ferry from Galala to Poka to shorten land travel time. Since the Red and White Bridge was built, access from the airport to the city center has become much faster, around 45-60 minutes.
Best Time to Visit:
For diving, the best time is from October to May. During this period, the sea tends to be calm and visibility is good. Avoid June to August as Maluku experiences the east monsoon season which brings heavy rain and high sea waves, often causing diving and inter-island crossing activities to be suspended.
Accommodation:
If your main goal is diving, it is highly recommended to stay at a dive resort in the Laha area to be close to macro dive sites. However, if you want to explore history and culinary, staying in hotels in the center of Ambon city will make your mobility easier.
Local Etiquette:
Ambon people highly respect politeness. Always ask for permission before taking photos of local residents or when entering traditional village areas. As Ambon has a history of resolved conflicts, avoid discussing sensitive religious issues carelessly; focus on the spirit of brotherhood they now possess.
Culinary & Local Experiences
Ambon's cuisine is a blend of fresh seafood and bold spice blends. The culinary experience here should not be missed.
Papeda and Ikan Kuah Kuning:
This is a staple food that must be tried. Papeda is made from sago, processed until it has a chewy and clear texture. It is enjoyed with Ikan Kuah Kuning (fish in yellow soup) seasoned with turmeric, basil, and lime, creating a fresh taste that balances the blandness of sago.
Rujak Natsepa:
Different from rujak in other regions, Rujak Natsepa has a unique peanut sauce that is roughly ground with the addition of fresh nutmeg slices and the distinctive Ambon palm sugar. Enjoying this rujak on the edge of Natsepa Beach while looking at the sea is a very authentic Ambon experience.
Kopi Sibu-Sibu:
In the local language, *sibu-sibu* means a gentle breeze. This coffee shop is a cultural institution in Ambon. Try Kopi Rarobang, coffee mixed with ginger, cloves, cinnamon, and topped with walnuts. This shop is also often a gathering place for local artists and musicians, where you can listen to melodious Ambon songs.
Grilled Fish in Galala:
Towards the evening, the Galala area becomes a center for grilled fish. Fresh fish caught that day are grilled with simple seasoning and served with Colo-colo—a typical Maluku chili sauce consisting of sliced red onions, bird's eye chilies, young tomatoes, and lime juice mixed with soy sauce or coconut oil.
Conclusion
Ambon is more than just a tourist destination; it is an experience that touches the soul. From the walls of old forts that tell of European ambitions, to the muddy seabed that hides the wonders of biological evolution, Ambon offers captivating contrasts. The city's strength lies in its ability to maintain harmony between a dark history, extraordinary nature, and a culture full of melody.
For those seeking an adventure that goes beyond aesthetic social media photos, Ambon will provide depth of meaning. You will return home with stories of the warmth of its people, the taste of spices lingering on your tongue, and memories of a magical underwater world. Ambon awaits to be explored, dived, and loved. Ambon Manise—it is truly sweet in all its aspects.