A Guide to Betung Kerihun National Park, Kalimantan
Introduction
Betung Kerihun National Park (TNBK) is one of the most precious hidden gems in the heart of Borneo Island, precisely in Kapuas Hulu Regency, West Kalimantan Province. Covering an area of approximately 800,000 hectares, this national park is not merely a protected forest area, but the last bastion for unparalleled tropical biodiversity in the world. As part of the "Heart of Borneo" initiative, Betung Kerihun offers a pure adventure experience, far from the hustle and bustle of modernity and mass tourism commercialization. Here, visitors are not only treated to endless green vistas but also clear river ecosystems, ancient mountain ranges, and a wealth of flora and fauna, many of which are endemic. For true adventurers, researchers, and nature lovers, Betung Kerihun is a living natural laboratory, where every inch of its land holds stories of evolution and a well-preserved natural balance. Exploring this national park means preparing to enter one of the oldest rainforests on earth, where the sounds of nature will be the only music accompanying your journey.
History & Background
Historically, the Betung Kerihun area was designated as a national park in 1995 through a Decree from the Minister of Forestry. The name "Betung Kerihun" itself is derived from two iconic mountains that stand majestically in the area, namely Mount Betung in the west and Mount Kerihun in the east. This area has a very strategic geographical position as it directly borders the Lanjak Entimau Wildlife Sanctuary in Sarawak, Malaysia. This cross-border cooperation forms one of the largest trans-national conservation areas in the world, which is crucial for wildlife migration and the genetic preservation of rainforest species.
Geologically, TNBK has a very complex landscape, ranging from lowlands to high mountain forests reaching an altitude of 1,790 meters above sea level. This area is also the headwaters of the Kapuas River, the longest river in Indonesia. For centuries, this region has been home to the Dayak people, particularly the Dayak Iban and Dayak Kayan sub-tribes, who have a deep spiritual and practical connection with the forest. They act as traditional guardians, ensuring that natural resources are utilized sustainably. This cultural background adds an extra dimension to TNBK's status, not just as an ecological asset but also as a living world cultural heritage. In 2004, the national park was proposed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its outstanding universal value in terms of biodiversity and ecological processes.
Main Attractions
Betung Kerihun is a paradise for those seeking natural authenticity. Here are some of the main attractions that make this place a must-visit:
1. Stunning Biodiversity
TNBK is home to thousands of flora and fauna species. Here, you can find over 600 species of trees, including various types of towering Meranti and Keruing trees reaching up to 50 meters. For birdwatchers, this national park is a dream destination with around 300 bird species, including the Hornbill, which is a symbol of Kalimantan. If you are lucky, you might witness the rare Great Hornbill flying above the treetops. Additionally, the area is a habitat for primates such as the Bornean Orangutan (Pongo pygmaeus), Bornean Gibbon, and Maras.
2. River Ecosystems and White Water Rafting
The national park is divided into several main river basins (DAS), namely Embaloh, Sibau, Mendalam, and Kapuas. The rivers here have very clear water and are surrounded by dramatic karst cliffs. Exploring the rivers using a traditional "Longboat" is an unforgettable experience. For thrill-seekers, the rapids in the upper reaches of the Kapuas River offer high adrenaline with varying difficulty levels, surrounded by pristine primary forest scenery.
3. Trekking Mount Kerihun and Mount Betung
For trekkers, conquering the summit of Mount Kerihun provides a unique sense of satisfaction. Although its height is not comparable to mountains in Java, the terrain is very challenging as it requires traversing dense forests and rarely trodden paths. From the summit, you will be treated to an endless view of the "Lungs of the World."
4. Karst Caves and Waterfalls
In the Embaloh sub-area, there are karst rock formations that hide exotic caves with active stalactites and stalagmites. Additionally, there are dozens of unnamed hidden waterfalls where you can swim in incredibly refreshing natural pools with cold, pure water.
5. Night Safari
Nighttime in Betung Kerihun brings a completely different atmosphere. Guided by rangers or local guides, you can observe nocturnal wildlife, such as various endemic tree frogs, bioluminescent insects, and occasional sightings of wild cats along the riverbanks.
Travel Tips & Logistics
Visiting Betung Kerihun requires thorough preparation due to its remote location and limited facilities.
- Access to the Location: The journey usually begins from Pontianak. You can take a domestic flight to Putussibau, the capital of Kapuas Hulu Regency. From Putussibau, the journey continues by land transportation to the pier, then by longboat down the river to the national park entrance. This river journey can take 3 to 8 hours depending on the water level and the targeted sub-area.
- Permits (SIMAKSI): Every visitor must have a Conservation Area Entry Permit (SIMAKSI), which can be obtained at the office of the Betung Kerihun National Park and Danau Sentarum National Park in Putussibau. Don't forget to bring photocopies of your identification.
- Best Time to Visit: The best time to visit is during the dry season between June and September. During the rainy season, river water levels can be very high and dangerous, while at the peak of the dry season, the river water may be too shallow for boats to pass.
- What to Bring: Wear quick-drying clothes, sturdy trekking shoes with high grip (rubber "kampung" shoes are highly recommended for wet terrain), a headlamp, personal medications, and especially a dry bag to protect your camera and electronic devices from river splashes or sudden rain.
- Local Guide: It is strongly advised not to explore TNBK alone. Always use the services of a local guide or ranger who understands the terrain and animal behavior.
Local Cuisine & Experiences
Interacting with the local communities, especially the Dayak Iban and Kayan tribes, is an integral part of visiting Betung Kerihun. Staying in a Rumah Betang (traditional longhouse) will give you a new perspective on a way of life that is in harmony with nature.
In terms of cuisine, don't miss the opportunity to taste local dishes prepared from forest and river ingredients. Ikan Semah is the most prestigious culinary delight here. This fish only lives in very clear, fast-flowing river water; its flesh is very tender with a distinctive savory taste, often cooked by simmering or grilling in bamboo. You will also find various preparations of bamboo shoots and forest ferns stir-fried with shrimp paste or fermented.
Another cultural experience is witnessing the process of making traditional Dayak ikat weaving, which uses natural dyes from roots and leaves in the forest. If you are lucky, you might witness traditional ceremonies as a form of gratitude for the harvest or as a welcome for distinguished guests. The hospitality of the local residents offering warm coffee on the veranda of the longhouse while sharing forest legends will be the most memorable experience.
Conclusion
Betung Kerihun National Park is not just a tourist destination, but a spiritual and physical journey into the heart of Borneo. It is a place where nature still holds complete control, and humans come as respectful guests. Although access is challenging and requires significant cost, the experiences gained—from seeing Orangutans in their natural habitat to feeling the tranquility in the headwaters of the Kapuas River—are priceless. Visiting here means contributing to conservation efforts and supporting the local economy of the communities who keep this forest standing tall. Betung Kerihun is a reminder to us all of how beautiful the world is if we let it remain wild and pure.