A Guide to the Barong and Kris Dance in Bali
Introduction
Bali, often dubbed the "Island of the Gods," is not merely an exotic beach destination but a spiritual cultural hub of profound depth. One of the most iconic manifestations of this cultural richness is the Barong and Kris Dance. This performance is more than just entertainment for tourists; it is a sacred ritual that represents the Balinese philosophy of life concerning the balance of the universe. Behind the dynamic movements and magnificent costumes lies an ancient narrative of the eternal battle between virtue and evil.
For travelers visiting Bali, witnessing the Barong Dance is a must to understand the local spiritual soul. The performance is usually held on an open stage with a backdrop of magnificent temple architecture, creating a mystical and profound atmosphere. Through this comprehensive guide, we will explore every layer of meaning in this dance, from its history rooted in animistic beliefs to technical details for those who wish to witness it firsthand in cultural villages like Batubulan. Prepare yourself to dive into a world where myth meets reality, and where art becomes a bridge to the divine.
History & Background
The Barong and Kris Dance has very ancient historical roots, believed to have existed even before the influence of Hinduism entered Bali. Initially, Barong was a protective figure in the animistic beliefs of the Nusantara people. The word "Barong" itself comes from the word bahruang, meaning bear, a mythical animal believed to possess protective powers. However, in its development in Bali, the Barong figure more often resembles a majestic lion adorned with gold and sparkling mirrors.
Philosophically, this dance tells the concept of Rwa Bhineda, which is the belief that in this world, there are always two opposing yet complementary things: good and evil, day and night, joy and sorrow. Barong symbolizes the side of virtue (Dharma), while its opponent, Rangda, symbolizes the side of evil or dark forces (Adharma). Rangda is depicted as a terrifying sorceress with long fangs, a protruding tongue, and messy hair.
Interestingly, in Balinese tradition, the battle between Barong and Rangda never ends with an absolute victory for either side. This reflects the reality of life that evil will never disappear completely, and humanity's task is to maintain balance so that virtue can continue to suppress negative forces. Over time, the ritual dance, initially performed within temples to ward off evil, was adapted into a performing art without losing its religious essence. The use of the Kris in this dance is also not without reason; the kris is considered a sacred heirloom with magical power to protect the dancer from Rangda's evil influence when in a trance state.
Main Attractions
The main attraction of the Barong and Kris Dance lies in its dramatic storytelling and visual splendor. The performance is usually divided into several acts accompanied by the energetic music of Gamelan Gong Kebyar. Here are the key elements that make this performance so captivating:
1. Magnificent Costumes and Masks:
The Barong is played by two dancers (head and tail sections) who must have extraordinary coordination. The Barong costume is made of finely carved cowhide, decorated with thousands of small mirror pieces that reflect light, and fur usually made from plant fibers or crow feathers. The Barong mask is considered sacred and is often given offerings before the performance begins.
2. The Story of Calon Arang:
The performance generally takes fragments from the story of Calon Arang. The story begins with a peaceful forest atmosphere, which is then disturbed by the appearance of Rangda's followers. The appearance of Rangda with her terrifying laughter and menacing movements is always the most thrilling moment for the audience.
3. The Ngerebong Ritual (Trance) Action:
This is the climax of the Barong and Kris Dance performance. When Barong's followers try to attack Rangda, the sorceress unleashes her supernatural powers, causing the dancers to enter an unconscious or trance state. In this state, they turn their weapons—the Kris—towards their own chests. Even though the kris is pressed so hard that it bends, the dancers are not harmed at all. This phenomenon is considered proof of spiritual protection from Barong. For the audience, it is a tense yet amazing experience that showcases the power of faith and tradition.
4. Humorous Interaction (Punokawan):
In between the tension between Barong and Rangda, there are humorous interludes performed by the punokawan or servant characters. They usually engage in funny dialogues (often involving audience interaction) to lighten the mood. Although they use the Balinese language, their body movements and expressions are very communicative, making them easily understood by foreign tourists.
5. Temple Background:
Most of the performances are held in a Wantilan (open hall) or in front of a Candi Bentar (split gate) of a temple. The intricately carved sandstone architecture provides an additional aesthetic dimension that reinforces the impression that you are witnessing something ancient and sacred.
Travel Tips & Logistics
To get the best experience when watching the Barong and Kris Dance, there are several logistical matters you need to consider:
- Best Location:Batubulan village in Gianyar Regency is the most popular center for watching this dance. There are several performance stages here, such as Sahadewa, Puseh Temple, or Jambe Budaya. Batubulan is located about a 30-45 minute drive from the center of Ubud or Denpasar.
- Performance Time: Barong Dance performances for tourists usually start in the morning, around 09:30 to 10:30 WITA. It is highly recommended to arrive 30 minutes earlier so you can get a seat in the front or middle rows for a better photo perspective.
- Ticket Prices: Entrance ticket prices usually range from Rp 100,000 to Rp 150,000 per person. This price usually includes a synopsis of the story in various languages (including Indonesian, English, Japanese, and Mandarin) so you can easily follow the plot.
- Dress Code: Although this is an art performance, the performance venues are often located in areas close to temples. Wear polite clothing (shoulders covered). If the performance is held within an active temple area, you may be asked to wear a sarong (kain) and sash.
- Transportation: Since the location is somewhat tucked away in the village, the easiest way is to rent a car with a driver or use online motorcycle taxi services. If you are staying in Ubud, many local travel agents offer morning tour packages that combine the Barong Dance with visits to silver craftsmen in Celuk or batik makers in Batubulan.
- Photography: Photography is allowed and highly encouraged. However, ensure your flash does not disturb the dancers, especially during the kris ritual moments that require high concentration.
Culinary & Local Experience
After watching an energetic performance, you will surely feel hungry. The Batubulan area and its surroundings offer various authentic local culinary options. One of the most recommended is trying Nasi Campur Bali at local warungs along the Batubulan highway. This mixed rice dish usually consists of sate lilit, shredded chicken, urap vegetables, and fresh sambal matah.
If you want to try something more specific, look for the famous Babi Guling in the Gianyar area. This dish is a traditional Balinese feast that can now be enjoyed daily. Additionally, as Batubulan is a village of artists, take some time to stroll around the performance area to see stone carvers at work. This village is known as the center for stone sculpture craftsmanship in Bali. You can witness the process of making statues of gods and temple ornaments directly at their workshops.
For coffee lovers, there are many small coffee shops serving traditional Balinese robusta coffee. Enjoying a warm cup of coffee while discussing the meaning of the dance you just watched is the best way to conclude your morning session in Batubulan before continuing your journey to other destinations like Tegallalang or Ubud.
Conclusion
Witnessing the Barong and Kris Dance is a spiritual and aesthetic journey that should not be missed when in Bali. More than just dance movements, this performance is a window into understanding the Balinese worldview on the cosmic balance between good and evil. With its magnificent costumes, enchanting gamelan music, and thrilling kris ritual, this experience will leave a deep impression that goes beyond mere visual tourism.
By visiting cultural centers like Batubulan, you not only enjoy entertainment but also contribute to preserving a UNESCO World Heritage cultural legacy. Make sure you plan your visit well, arrive early, and let yourself be swept away by the magic of the oldest dance drama on the Island of the Gods. Happy exploring the true spiritual side of Bali!