A Guide to the Sanghyang Dance in Bali

Introduction

Bali, often dubbed the "Island of the Gods," is more than just a tourist destination with beautiful beaches and luxurious resorts. The heart of this island lies in its deep spirituality, manifested in various ancient rituals that are still preserved today. One of the most sacred, mystical, and captivating cultural heritages is the Sanghyang Dance. Unlike entertainment dances like Legong or welcoming dances like Pendet, Sanghyang is a ritual cleansing (exorcism) dance performed to ward off evil spirits, epidemics, or misfortunes from a village.

This dance is a form of direct communication between the human world and the divine realm. In the belief of the Balinese Hindu community, the Sanghyang Dance involves a state of trance, where the dancers are believed to be possessed by sacred powers or ancestral spirits (Hyang). Witnessing the Sanghyang Dance is not merely watching an art performance, but attending a religious ceremony laden with metaphysical energy. For travelers seeking deeper meaning beyond visual tourism, understanding and witnessing the Sanghyang Dance is a window into the purest spiritual soul of Bali. This dance is usually performed in temple courtyards or open areas in villages considered sacred, making it an inseparable part of Bali's Temple & Cultural Sites ecosystem.

History & Background

The roots of the Sanghyang Dance stretch far back to the pre-Hindu era in Bali, reflecting strong animistic elements that later assimilated with Hindu Dharma teachings. Etymologically, "Sang" is an honorific title and "Hyang" means a sacred spiritual being or deity. Thus, Sanghyang literally means "The Sacred One" or "Deity." History records that this dance was born out of the need for ancient agrarian communities to seek protection from unpredictable natural forces.

In the past, when a village was struck by an epidemic (*gering*) or massive crop failure, the community believed that the natural balance was disturbed by negative forces. To restore that balance, the Sanghyang ritual was performed. There are various types of Sanghyang Dances, such as Sanghyang Dedari, performed by two young girls who have not yet reached puberty (a symbol of purity), and Sanghyang Jaran, usually performed by men riding bamboo hobby horses through burning embers.

The unique history of Sanghyang lies in its non-commercial nature. For centuries, this dance was never intended for public spectacle. It was an "emergency dance" or a village cleansing ritual (Ngerestiti Desa). However, over time, some villages like Bona Village in Gianyar began to adapt elements of Sanghyang for cultural preservation and tourist education, without losing its sacred essence. Nevertheless, the original, purely ritualistic version is still performed in remote Balinese temples on specific days according to the Saka or Wuku calendar, far from the hustle and bustle of tourist centers.

Main Attractions

The main attraction of the Sanghyang Dance lies in its mystical and supernatural aspects, which are not found in other Balinese dances. Here are the key elements that make it an extraordinary experience:

1. Trance State:

Before dancing, the performers undergo a ngasap ritual, inhaling fragrant incense smoke while accompanied by a male or female choir (Gending Sanghyang). Within minutes, the dancers lose self-awareness and begin to move with physically inexplicable movements—such as dancing with tightly closed eyes yet navigating the area perfectly, or jumping over burning embers without getting hurt.

2. Sanghyang Dedari (Dance of the Angels):

In this variant, two young girls who have never menstruated are considered the purest vessels for the angels from heaven. What's amazing is that these two girls often have no formal dance training. However, when in a trance state, they are capable of performing very complex and synchronized dance movements, as if moved by a single mind. They often dance on the shoulders of men carrying them, swaying without falling.

3. Sanghyang Jaran (Horse Dance):

This is the most thrilling part. A male dancer, believed to be possessed by the spirit of a sacred horse, will ride a bamboo horse and run towards a pile of burning coconut husks. He will stomp, kick, and even roll on the hot fire. Miraculously, no burns are left on the dancer's skin. This is a tangible demonstration of spiritual power protecting the human body.

4. Music Without Instruments (Gending):

Unlike general Balinese dances accompanied by Gamelan Gong Keybar, Sanghyang Dedari is usually accompanied only by a human choir called Kecak (for men) or a melodious female chant. These sounds create a very intense, repetitive, and hypnotic atmosphere, drawing the audience into a deeply sacred mood.

5. Symbolism of Purification:

At the end of the dance, the dancers are sprinkled with holy water (tirta) by the religious leader (Pemangku) to restore their consciousness. The dance concludes with a collective sense of relief for the villagers, as it is believed that the village has now been cleansed of negative energy.

Travel Tips & Logistics

Witnessing the Sanghyang Dance requires more careful planning and etiquette than watching a dance performance at Ubud Palace. Here is a logistical guide:

Location: For an authentic experience, visit villages in Gianyar Regency, such as Bona Village or Keramas Village. Some villages in Karangasem also still practice pure Sanghyang. If you want to see a more scheduled yet still sacred version, check the schedules at major temples during Odalan ceremonies.
Time: This ritual is usually performed at night, after sunset, as the dark atmosphere is believed to facilitate the trance process and interaction with the spirit world.
Dress Code: As this dance is usually held in temple areas or sacred places, you must wear polite Balinese traditional attire. At a minimum, use a sarong and a sash (senteng) tied around your waist. Ensure your shoulders are covered.
Behavior: Never use a flash when taking photos, as it can disturb the concentration of dancers in a trance state. Do not stand higher than the Pemangku (priest) or the offerings placed on the ground.
Transportation: Since the locations of these villages are often deep inland, it is highly recommended to rent a car with a private driver who knows the area. The journey from Kuta or Seminyak can take 1.5 to 2 hours.
Schedule Information: There is no official website for village rituals. The best way is to ask local guides or hotel staff who have connections with village communities in Gianyar about when the next Sanghyang ceremony will be held.

Local Cuisine & Experiences

Your visit to witness the Sanghyang Dance will not be complete without tasting the rich local cuisine around Gianyar, known as the center of traditional Balinese culinary delights.

After the intense dance, you can stop by Gianyar Night Market. Here, you must try Babi Guling, Bali's iconic dish of whole roasted pig rich in spices. Its crispy skin and tender meat are everyone's favorite. For those who don't consume pork, Ayam Betutu (chicken slow-cooked with *base genep* spices) or Sate Lilit (fish/chicken satay with grated coconut) are excellent choices.

For a deeper experience, try interacting with the villagers after the ritual is over. Usually, there is a communal atmosphere where people gather. You might be offered traditional snacks like Laklak (rice cakes with grated coconut and liquid palm sugar). Don't hesitate to ask local residents about the meaning of the dance for them; Balinese people are very proud of their culture and are usually happy to share stories if asked politely. The experience of tasting Balinese coffee at a local warung while discussing the mysticism of Sanghyang is the best way to end your night.

Conclusion

The Sanghyang Dance is a true testament that Balinese culture is not merely a tourist commodity, but a way of life rooted in the balance between humans, nature, and God (Tri Hita Karana). Witnessing this dance offers a different perspective on the boundaries between the physical and the spiritual, and between reality and magic.

For visitors, the Sanghyang Dance provides lessons on respecting ancestral traditions and the power of belief. It is not just an art performance, but a spiritual journey that will leave a deep impression and immense respect for Indonesia's rich culture. If you have the opportunity to witness this rare ritual, treat it as an honor, for you are witnessing one of the most sacred secrets of the Island of the Gods.