A Guide to the Sari Temple in Yogyakarta

Introduction

Yogyakarta, often dubbed the 'City of Culture,' is home to a captivating array of ancient relics, from the grandeur of Borobudur to the elegance of Prambanan. However, beyond these popular sites lies a hidden gem offering unparalleled tranquility and unique architecture: Candi Sari. Located not far from Candi Kalasan, Candi Sari is often overlooked by mainstream tourists, yet this site holds immense historical and aesthetic value.

Candi Sari is more than just a pile of andesite stones; it is a silent witness to the glory of the Mataram Kuno Kingdom in the 8th century. Unlike other temples that generally served purely as places of worship, Candi Sari boasts a design that indicates a very specific dual function. With its slender, multi-story building form, this temple emanates an aura of elegance distinct from other Hindu-Buddhist temple structures in Central Java. For history buffs, photographers, or travelers seeking peace, Candi Sari offers a more intimate and personal experience. Here, you can absorb the delicate details of the reliefs without jostling through crowds, making it a must-visit destination for anyone wishing to explore another facet of Yogyakarta's rich cultural heritage.

History & Background

Historically, Candi Sari was built during the reign of Rakai Panangkaran, the second king of the Mataram Kuno Kingdom, around the 8th century AD (770 – 780 AD). The construction of this temple is closely linked to Candi Kalasan, located approximately 500 meters to the southwest. According to the Kalasan Inscription (778 AD), Buddhist monks requested King Rakai Panangkaran to build a sanctuary for Goddess Tara and also a Vihara (monastery) for the Sangha monks.

This is what makes Candi Sari so special in an archaeological context. The name "Sari" itself originates from the Javanese word "Sari," meaning "beautiful" or "lovely," reflecting the beauty of its reliefs and architectural form. Functionally, historians believe that Candi Sari once served as a dormitory or residence (vihara) for Buddhist monks. This is evidenced by its unique interior structure, divided into several rooms, with traces of wooden floors that divided the building into two or even three levels.

The architecture of Candi Sari follows a distinctly Buddhist style, evident from the rows of stupas on its roof. As part of the religious complexities of the past, Candi Sari demonstrates the harmonious spiritual life of that era, where the Mataram Kuno kings (some of whom were Hindu) showed great tolerance by building sacred sites for Buddhists. The restoration of this temple was carried out in the early 20th century by the Dutch East Indies government, successfully restoring its original glory after centuries of being buried by volcanic material from Mount Merapi and forest vegetation.

Main Attractions

The main attractions of Candi Sari lie in its unusual building architecture and the richness of its relief details. Let's delve deeper into what makes this site so captivating:

1. Multi-Story Building Structure

Unlike Candi Borobudur, which spreads horizontally, or Candi Prambanan, which rises in a single vertical axis, Candi Sari is rectangular with dimensions of approximately 17.30 x 10 meters. The most striking feature is its interior, divided into three aligned rooms. On the inner walls, there are holes that were once used to place wooden beams as floor dividers between the lower and upper levels. This reinforces the theory that the lower floor was used for study and worship activities, while the upper floor served as a resting or meditation place for the monks.

2. Reliefs of Bodhisattvas and Tara

The outer walls of Candi Sari are adorned with 36 carvings of sacred figures in Buddhism. You will find finely sculpted reliefs of Bodhisattvas and Goddess Tara. These figures are depicted in standing positions, holding lotus flowers (padma), with serene and peaceful facial expressions. The details of their clothing, jewelry, and crowns indicate a very high level of craftsmanship at that time. These reliefs are considered among the finest and most detailed among Buddhist temples in Java.

3. Kalamakara and Kinara-Kinari Ornaments

Above the temple's windows and doors, there are Kalamakara decorations (a giant face without a lower jaw) which served to ward off evil spirits. Additionally, there are Kinara-Kinari reliefs, celestial beings depicted as half-human and half-bird, symbolizing happiness and loyalty. These ornaments add rich texture to the temple's outer walls, creating beautiful shadow play when hit by the morning or afternoon sun.

4. Unique Roof Section

The roof of Candi Sari is decorated with rows of small stupas arranged in a symmetrical pattern. There are nine stupas on the upper section, giving an impression of majesty while also indicating its Buddhist religious identity. The square shape of the roof, adorned with stupas, creates a very photogenic silhouette, especially when viewed from a low angle.

5. Tranquil Atmosphere

Due to its location amidst residential areas but slightly set back, Candi Sari offers a tranquility rarely found at Borobudur. You can sit in the neatly arranged gardens surrounding the temple, enjoy the gentle breeze, and observe the details of thousand-year-old andesite stones.

Travel Tips & Logistics

To maximize your visit to Candi Sari, here are some logistical tips to consider:

Location & Access: Candi Sari is located in Tirtomartani Village, Kalasan District, Sleman Regency, Yogyakarta. Its location is very strategic as it is not far from the main Solo-Yogyakarta highway. From the city center of Yogyakarta, it takes about 30-45 minutes to drive. You can use a private vehicle, online motorcycle taxi, or TransJogja bus (alight at the nearest Kalasan stop).
Best Time to Visit: Visit in the morning (07:00 - 09:00) or late afternoon (15:30 - 17:00). The sunlight at these times is ideal for photography as it highlights the texture of the reliefs. Additionally, the air is not too hot.
Ticket Prices: Entrance tickets to Candi Sari are very affordable, usually ranging from Rp5,000 to Rp10,000 for domestic tourists. Make sure to bring small cash.
What to Bring: Wear comfortable shoes as you might want to walk around the temple area which has grass and stone surfaces. Don't forget to bring drinking water, a hat, and sunscreen.
Visiting Etiquette: As a sacred site and cultural heritage, visitors are prohibited from climbing the temple walls, vandalizing, or littering. Maintain quiet to respect the spiritual value of this place.
Combined Route: It is highly recommended to combine your visit to Candi Sari with Candi Kalasan and Candi Sambisari, as all three are located along a nearby route.

Culinary & Local Experiences

After a tiring exploration of the temple reliefs, the Kalasan area offers various culinary experiences to complement your journey.

1. Legendary Kalasan Fried Chicken

You cannot leave this area without tasting Ayam Goreng Kalasan (Kalasan Fried Chicken). Unlike regular fried chicken, this chicken is cooked with a secret recipe that is typically sweet and savory, achieved by using coconut water in the boiling process. Its texture is very tender with crispy bits. There are many legendary eateries along the Solo-Yogyakarta highway you can choose from, such as Ayam Goreng Mbok Berek or Ayam Goreng Candisari.

2. Wedang Ronde and Market Snacks

In the afternoon, around the residential areas near the temple, you can often find vendors selling Wedang Ronde—a warm drink containing glutinous rice balls, peanuts, and palm seeds in a sweet and spicy ginger broth. It's the perfect way to warm up after a day of sightseeing.

3. Interaction with Local Residents

Candi Sari is located quite close to people's homes. You can observe the daily activities of the villagers, from farming to craft making. The people around Kalasan are very friendly to tourists. Don't hesitate to smile or simply ask for directions; these simple interactions often provide deeper insights into the real local life in Yogyakarta.

Conclusion

Candi Sari is tangible proof that historical beauty doesn't always have to be grand in scale but can emanate through detail and serenity. As a former dormitory for monks, this site offers a unique perspective on the intellectual and spiritual life of the past in Java. Its rare multi-story architecture, combined with the stunning reliefs of Bodhisattvas, makes Candi Sari a destination that provides inner satisfaction to every visitor. With easy access and very affordable costs, there's no reason to miss this temple on your Yogyakarta itinerary. Come, observe, and let the stone walls of Candi Sari tell you their story of peace from ages past.