Best Beaches in Kalimantan: Maratua, Kakaban, and More

Best Beaches in Kalimantan: Maratua, Kakaban, and More

Introduction

Kalimantan, the largest island in Indonesia, often known by its nickname "The Island of a Thousand Rivers," is more commonly associated with dense tropical rainforests and orangutan conservation. However, behind its lush green canopy, Kalimantan hides coastal gems whose beauty can rival the Maldives or the Caribbean. Especially on the eastern side, precisely in Berau Regency, East Kalimantan, lies the Derawan Islands, home to some of the most spectacular beaches and marine ecosystems in the world. This area is not just an ordinary tourist destination; it is a fragment of paradise fallen to earth, where turquoise waters meet sand as white and fine as flour.

Exploring the beaches in Kalimantan offers a vastly different experience compared to Bali or Lombok. Here, you will find pure tranquility, far from the hustle and bustle of noisy beach clubs. Destinations like Maratua Island, Kakaban, Sangalaki, and Derawan boast incredible biodiversity, ranging from rare stingless jellyfish to majestic manta rays. The allure of Kalimantan's beaches lies in their exceptional water clarity, pristine coastlines, and the warmth of the local people who dedicate themselves to preserving their natural environment. This guide will take you deeper into the wonders of Kalimantan's coast, providing detailed insights into why this region should be at the top of your next travel itinerary. Let's begin our journey along the stunning eastern coast of Kalimantan.

History & Background

Geologically and historically, the islands in East Kalimantan, particularly the Derawan Islands, are part of the Coral Triangle. This region possesses the highest marine biodiversity in the world, with hundreds of coral species and thousands of fish species. The formation history of these islands is unique; for instance, Kakaban Island is an atoll that was uplifted through tectonic processes millions of years ago. This process trapped seawater in the center of the island, creating an isolated brackish lake. This isolation led to unique evolutionary developments in its biota, including jellyfish that lost their stinging ability due to the absence of natural predators within the lake.

Administratively, most of the best beaches in East Kalimantan fall under Berau Regency. Historically, this region was part of the Gunung Tabur Sultanate and the Sambaliung Sultanate. Its coastal communities, largely comprising the Bajo people (known as "Sea Gypsies"), Bugis, and Banjar, have lived in harmony with the sea for centuries. The Bajo people, in particular, have a long history as skilled seafarers capable of free-diving to depths of tens of meters with only traditional wooden goggles. Their local knowledge of ocean currents and turtle migration forms a crucial foundation for modern conservation in this area.

In the early 1990s, the tourism potential of the Derawan Islands began to be noticed by the international diving community. However, it was only in the last decade that infrastructure started to be seriously developed to support sustainable tourism. The local government, along with international environmental organizations like WWF and TNC (The Nature Conservancy), has worked diligently to designate this area as a Marine and Small Islands Conservation Area (KKP3K). This was done to protect the populations of green turtles (Chelonia mydas) and hawksbill turtles, which use Kalimantan's beaches as primary nesting sites in Southeast Asia. The transformation from traditional fishing villages to world-class ecotourism destinations has been carried out while preserving local wisdom, ensuring that the beauty of these beaches can be enjoyed by future generations.

Main Attractions

The allure of Kalimantan's beaches cannot be simply described as "beautiful." Each island has its specific character and wonders, making it a comprehensive adventure package.

1. Maratua Island: The Maldives of Indonesia

Maratua is the main star. The island is shaped like a large "U" enclosing a calm blue lagoon. The beaches on Maratua, such as those around Maratua Paradise Resort, offer incredibly clear waters where you can see turtles swimming beneath the pier without even getting wet. Maratua also boasts a famous underwater cave, Haji Mangku Cave, a vertical crevice in the middle of the jungle filled with clear sapphire-blue brackish water. For divers, Big Fish Country in Maratua offers the thrill of diving in strong currents alongside schools of barracuda, wobbegong sharks, and thousands of other pelagic fish.

2. Kakaban Island: The Jellyfish Lake Marvel

Although famous for its central lake, the beaches on Kakaban's outer coast are equally captivating with their steep coral drop-offs. However, its main attraction remains Kakaban Lake. Here, you can swim with four types of jellyfish: golden jellyfish (Mastigias papua), moon jellyfish (Aurelia aurita), box jellyfish (Tripedalia cystophora), and upside-down jellyfish (Cassiopea ornata). Since they are stingless, you can gently touch them (though it is highly recommended not to use chemical sunscreens or fins to preserve them). This experience is often described as spiritual due to the tranquility and uniqueness of its ecosystem.

3. Sangalaki Island: Kingdom of Manta Rays and Turtles

Sangalaki is a strictly protected turtle conservation center. Its beaches have very fine, white sand, making them a favorite spot for green turtles to nest every night. Additionally, the waters around Sangalaki are known as "Manta Point." Currents carrying abundant plankton attract schools of giant Manta Rays to feed. Witnessing these graceful creatures glide beneath the water's surface is an unforgettable experience.

4. Derawan Island: Vibrant Coastal Life

Derawan is the heart of this archipelago. Here, beaches blend with friendly local settlements. Derawan's uniqueness lies in the numerous green turtles that freely roam beneath the piers of the floating accommodations. You can simply sit by the pier at sunset to see turtles surfacing for air. The beaches on the western side of Derawan offer spectacular sunset views, where the sky transforms into gradients of orange and purple reflecting on the calm water surface.

5. Labuan Cermin: The Dual-Taste Beach and Lake

Slightly shifting to the mainland of Kalimantan, specifically in Biduk-Biduk, lies Labuan Cermin. Although technically a lake near the coast, its proximity to the beach makes it part of the same journey. Its waters have two layers: freshwater on the surface and saltwater at the bottom, with a crystal-clear boundary like glass. Nearby, Kaniungan Beach offers incredible tranquility with its iconic rows of coconut trees, ideal for those seeking an escape from the crowds.

Travel Tips & Logistics

Planning a trip to Kalimantan's beaches requires more thorough preparation than traveling to other popular destinations due to their relatively remote locations.

Access to Locations

The main gateway to the Derawan Islands is via Kalimarau Airport in Tanjung Redeb (Berau) or Maratua Airport (for limited direct flights from Balikpapan).

• Via Tanjung Redeb: From the airport, you need to travel by land for about 2-3 hours to Tanjung Batu Port. From Tanjung Batu, the journey continues by speedboat for 30-45 minutes to Derawan Island, or 1-1.5 hours to Maratua Island.
• Via Tarakan: You can also fly to Tarakan, then charter a speedboat directly to the islands, but this is usually more expensive unless you are traveling in a large group.

Best Time to Visit

The best time to visit Kalimantan's beaches is during the dry season, between April and October. During this period, the sea tends to be calm, and underwater visibility is excellent (reaching 20-30 meters). Avoid December to February as the west monsoon season often brings large waves and rain that can disrupt speedboat schedules.

What to Pack

1. Reef-Safe Sunscreen: Chemicals in regular sunscreen can damage coral reefs and harm jellyfish in Kakaban.

2. Dry Bag: Essential for protecting your camera and phone when moving between islands by speedboat.

3. Cash: ATMs are very limited (only on Maratua Island, and they often run out of cash). Make sure to bring enough cash from Tanjung Redeb or Tarakan.

4. Personal Snorkeling Gear: Although rentals are available, using your own gear is more hygienic and ensures a comfortable fit.

Travel Etiquette

It is strictly forbidden to touch, step on, or take coral and marine life. In Kakaban Lake, using fins is prohibited as it can injure the very delicate bodies of the jellyfish. Always follow instructions from local guides regarding safe swimming areas.

Local Cuisine & Experiences

A trip to Kalimantan's beaches would be incomplete without savoring its authentic culinary richness. The culinary culture here is heavily influenced by the abundant seafood and the traditions of the Bajo and Banjar tribes.

Fresh Seafood

On Derawan and Maratua Islands, seafood is a must-try. You can enjoy freshly caught snapper, grouper, or rabbitfish, grilled over coconut shell charcoal. A distinctive condiment is young mango chili sauce, which provides a fresh and spicy sensation, perfect with warm rice by the beach.

Kima-Kima and Tehe-Tehe

For culinary adventurers, try the specialty dishes of the Bajo tribe. Kima-Kima refers to dried giant clams cooked with spicy seasonings or made into sweet and sour. However, it's important to note that clams are now a protected species, so ensure you consume them from legal sources or only try traditional processed versions. There is also Tehe-Tehe, which is sea urchin shells filled with sticky rice and coconut milk, then steamed. It has a savory and unique taste, offering a real glimpse into how local communities creatively utilize marine resources.

Elai and Tropical Fruits

If you visit during the fruit season (around the beginning of the year), don't miss the Elai fruit. This fruit resembles durian but has bright orange flesh, a drier texture, and a less pungent aroma. It is an endemic Kalimantan fruit that is a must-try.

Overwater Stay Experience

One of the best local experiences is staying in a water villa or overwater accommodation. Many guesthouses in Derawan and Maratua are built extending over the sea. At night, you can hear the sound of waves right beneath your bed. Interacting with the local residents is also very easy; take a stroll through the village in the afternoon, watch the local children who are expert swimmers, or visit handicraft workshops making items from coconut shells. The warmth of the local people will make you feel not like a tourist, but like an honored guest in their own home.

Conclusion

Kalimantan's beaches, with Maratua and Kakaban as their crown jewels, offer more than just postcard-perfect views. It is a destination that blends geological wonders, unparalleled biodiversity, and the profound culture of its humble coastal communities. From swimming with ancient stingless jellyfish to witnessing the dance of Manta Rays under the sun, every moment here is a reminder of Indonesia's pure natural grandeur. Although it requires extra effort in terms of logistics, the experience gained will far exceed expectations. Exploring Kalimantan's coast is a journey to discover another side of Indonesia—a side that is serene, blue, and full of wonders that will forever be etched in the memory of every adventurer who visits.