Introduction
The Derawan Islands are a hidden gem located in Berau Regency, East Kalimantan. As one of Indonesia's most exotic marine tourism destinations, this archipelago offers underwater natural beauty that is hard to match anywhere else in the world. Consisting of a cluster of small islands surrounded by clear turquoise waters, Derawan has long been a dream for divers, underwater photographers, and nature lovers seeking tranquility far from the hustle and bustle of big cities. This archipelago is not just an ordinary tourist destination; it is a fragile yet magnificent ecosystem, where harmony between humans and nature is still exceptionally well-preserved.
The main attraction that has made the Derawan Islands world-renowned is the presence of "The Big Three" or three unique natural phenomena rarely found in one location: abundant green sea turtle populations, the majestic dance of Manta rays, and ancient, stingless jellyfish lakes. Each island in this cluster has its own character and specialty. Derawan Island is famous for its overwater bungalows and turtles; Maratua Island for its luxury resorts and underwater caves; Sangalaki Island as the kingdom of Manta rays; and Kakaban Island, which holds evolutionary mysteries within its brackish lake.
Exploring Derawan means entering one of the most important points in the Coral Triangle. The biodiversity here includes hundreds of coral species and thousands of fish species. For both domestic and international tourists, a trip to Derawan is a pilgrimage to nature. Here, time seems to slow down, giving every visitor the opportunity to savor the beauty of the sunrise on the eastern horizon of Kalimantan, swim with gentle sea giants, and witness the sacred procession of releasing hatchlings (baby turtles) into the vast ocean. This guide will take you deeper into understanding why the Derawan Islands deserve to be called a true tropical paradise in the heart of Indonesia.
History & Background
Administratively, the Derawan Islands fall within the territory of Berau Regency, East Kalimantan Province. The history of these islands cannot be separated from the history of the Berau Sultanate, which once flourished in the coastal areas of Kalimantan. For centuries, the islands in this region have been stopovers for sailors, Bajau fishermen (Sea Gypsies), and traders traversing the Sulawesi Sea. The Bajau people, known for their strong spiritual and physical connection to the sea, are the indigenous inhabitants who shaped the cultural character of Derawan. They built stilt houses over the water and depended entirely on marine resources for their livelihood, a tradition that can still be witnessed today.
The name "Derawan" itself has a rather tragic folk tale root that remains deeply embedded in the hearts of the local community. It is said that the names of the main islands here are derived from the terms for family members in a legend of a wedding that ended in disaster. "Derawan" comes from "Perawan" (Virgin), "Maratua" from "Mertua" (In-laws), "Sangalaki" from "Laki-laki" (Man/Husband), and "Kakaban" from "Kakak" (Older Sibling). This legend tells of a wedding party whose ship sank due to a great storm, and it is said that the family members transformed into the islands we know today. Although this is just a myth, the story provides emotional depth and cultural identity for the local residents towards their homeland.
From a conservation perspective, the modern history of the Derawan Islands began to gain international attention in the late 20th century. In 2005, the Indonesian government began registering this area as a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its extraordinary biodiversity. The islands are a habitat for several endangered species, especially the Green Sea Turtle (Chelonia mydas) and the Hawksbill Turtle (Eretmochelys imbricata). Sangalaki Island, in particular, has long been known as the largest nesting site for green sea turtles in Southeast Asia. Protection efforts continue through the establishment of Marine and Small Islands Conservation Areas (KKP3K) to ensure that developing tourism does not damage the existing ecosystem.
The development of tourism infrastructure in Derawan began slowly, from simple accommodations owned by local residents (homestays) to the establishment of exclusive resorts in Maratua. This transformation changed the face of the local economy, which was once purely dependent on fishing, into a service-based economy of tourism and conservation. The local community is now more aware of the importance of preserving coral reefs and marine life, as these are the main attractions that bring in tourists. The history of Derawan is a story of human adaptation to a dynamic marine environment, from the era of ancient sultanates to becoming a world-class ecotourism destination.
Main Attractions
The Derawan Islands offer a highly varied tourist experience, with each island presenting different yet complementary attractions. Here is a breakdown of the main attractions you must visit:
1. Derawan Island: Kingdom of Green Sea Turtles
This island is the main gateway and accommodation hub. The most iconic attraction here is the ease of spotting green sea turtles directly from your accommodation's pier. In the morning or afternoon, large turtles often surface to breathe or feed on algae on the wooden bridge pilings. You can snorkel right in front of your accommodation and swim alongside these ancient creatures. Additionally, Derawan Island is the best place to enjoy the friendly fishing village atmosphere, hunt for souvenirs made from synthetic turtle shells (ensure you don't buy real turtle products), and enjoy spectacular sunsets.
2. Kakaban Island: The Jellyfish Lake Marvel
Kakaban Island is the most biologically unique destination. In the center of the island lies a giant brackish lake formed by the uplift of an atoll millions of years ago, trapping seawater within it. Isolated from predators in the open sea, the jellyfish trapped here evolved to lose their stinging ability. There are four types of jellyfish here: the spotted jellyfish (Mastigias papua), moon jellyfish (Aurelia aurita), box jellyfish (Tripedalia cystophora), and upside-down jellyfish (Cassiopea ornata). Swimming among thousands of gentle and transparent jellyfish provides a sensation akin to being on another planet. Please note, visitors are prohibited from using sunscreen when swimming in this lake, as its chemicals can poison the jellyfish ecosystem, and the use of fins is also forbidden to avoid injuring the very fragile jellyfish.
3. Sangalaki Island: Home of the Manta Rays
If Kakaban is about jellyfish, then Sangalaki is about the magnificence of Manta Rays (Manta birostris). The waters around Sangalaki are rich in plankton, attracting dozens of manta rays to feed here. Visitors can snorkel or dive to see these giant fish, with wingspans reaching up to 5 meters, gliding gracefully underwater. Besides Mantas, Sangalaki is also a turtle conservation center. You can visit the turtle sanctuary and, if lucky, participate in releasing hatchlings into the sea in the afternoon.
4. Maratua Island: The Maldives of Indonesia
Maratua is often dubbed the "Maldives of Indonesia." This crescent-shaped island boasts a vast lagoon with incredibly clear, crystal-blue waters. Maratua is a paradise for professional divers, with dive sites like "The Channel" or "Big Fish Country," where strong currents bring schools of thousands of barracudas (barracuda tornado), reef sharks, and eagle rays. For non-diving tourists, Maratua offers the beauty of Gua Haji Mangku, a vertical cave with refreshing clear blue water inside, as well as a row of luxurious resorts built extending into the sea.
5. Labuan Cermin: The Two-Taste Lake (Additional on Mainland)
Although technically located on the mainland of Kalimantan (Biduk-biduk District), Labuan Cermin is often included in Derawan travel packages. This lake has a unique phenomenon where the upper layer of water is cold freshwater, while the lower layer is warm, salty seawater. These two layers do not mix, creating a crystal-clear mirror effect where boats above appear to be floating in the air.
Travel Tips & Logistics
Planning a trip to the Derawan Islands requires thorough preparation due to its relatively remote location. Here is a logistical guide to ensure your trip goes smoothly:
How to Get There
There are two main routes to reach the Derawan Islands:
1. Air Route via Berau (Kalmarau): This is the most common route. You fly to Kalmarau Airport in Tanjung Redeb, Berau. From the airport, you need to travel by land for approximately 2-3 hours to Tanjung Batu Port. From Tanjung Batu, the journey continues by speedboat for 30-45 minutes to Derawan Island.
2. Air Route via Tarakan (Juwata): This route is often cheaper for flight tickets. From Juwata Airport, you head directly to the port in Tarakan and hire a speedboat directly to Derawan Island. However, the sea journey from Tarakan takes quite a long time, about 3 hours across the open sea, so it is less recommended if the weather is unstable or if you are prone to seasickness.
Best Time to Visit
The best time to visit Derawan is during the dry season, which is between April and October. During this period, the sea tends to be calm, and underwater visibility is excellent, reaching 15-20 meters. Avoid December to February, as the west wind season often brings high waves and heavy rain that can disrupt inter-island ferry schedules. For those who want to see a large number of Manta Rays, they are usually more frequently seen during high tides around Sangalaki Island.
Accommodation
Accommodation options in Derawan are very diverse, ranging from local homestays costing IDR 200,000 - IDR 400,000 per night, to luxury resorts in Maratua costing millions of rupiah per night. If you want to experience the local atmosphere and have easy access to dining options, stay on Derawan Island. However, if you are looking for tranquility and luxury, Maratua Island is the best choice.
Essential Items to Bring
- Cash: There are no ATMs on the small islands (except for one ATM in Maratua that often runs out of cash). Make sure you bring enough cash from Berau or Tarakan.
- Personal Snorkeling Gear: Although there are many rental places, bringing your own mask and snorkel is more hygienic and ensures a comfortable fit.
- Dry Bag: Essential for protecting your camera and phone from saltwater splashes when moving between islands by speedboat.
- Eco-Friendly Sunscreen: Use "reef-safe" sunscreen to preserve coral reefs. Remember, sunscreen is prohibited when swimming in Kakaban Lake.
- Motion Sickness Medication: Inter-island travel can sometimes involve rough waves.
Local Cuisine & Experiences
Exploring Derawan is incomplete without tasting the rich culinary heritage of East Kalimantan's coast. Being in the middle of the sea, seafood is the main menu that should not be missed. Grilled fish, crab, and squid here are very fresh as they are caught directly by local fishermen on the same day.
Must-Try Local Delicacies:
1. Tehe-Tehe: This is the most iconic food from the Bajau people. Tehe-tehe is a sea urchin shell with its spines cleaned, then filled with sticky rice cooked with coconut milk, and then steamed. It has a savory taste and a unique sea aroma. This delicacy symbolizes the creativity of the local community in utilizing marine resources.
2. Kima-Kima: Processed giant clam (the kima used is usually not a protected species, but be sure to ask) that is dried and cooked with spicy balado seasoning or stir-fried. Its texture is chewy, similar to salted squid but with a stronger flavor.
3. Elai: If you visit during fruit season, try the Elai fruit. This fruit resembles durian but has bright orange flesh, a drier/fluffier texture, and an aroma that is not as pungent as regular durian.
4. Dried Fish and Amplang: As souvenirs, don't forget to buy the typical Kalimantan amplang crackers made from mackerel, or the sun-dried salted fish, which is of excellent quality in Derawan.
Local Experiences and Etiquette:
Interacting with the Bajau people on Derawan or Maratua Island will provide a new perspective on life. You can see young children who are already skilled at paddling canoes or diving without aids. The people here are very friendly, but as tourists, we must respect local customs. Dress modestly when walking around the village (avoid wearing only a bikini or very tight shorts in residential areas).
Furthermore, the most memorable local experience is participating in conservation activities. Many accommodations or local tourism awareness groups (Pokdarwis) involve tourists in beach clean-up activities or turtle education. Watching turtles lay eggs at night is an extraordinary spiritual experience, but ensure you are accompanied by an official guide. Never touch the turtles, do not use bright flashlights (as they will scare the turtles), and do not be noisy. Environmental awareness is paramount in Derawan; do not throw plastic waste into the sea and do not step on coral reefs while snorkeling.
Conclusion
The Derawan Islands are a testament to Indonesia's natural wonders that must be preserved. From the evolutionary marvel of stingless jellyfish in Kakaban, the majestic dance of Manta Rays in Sangalaki, to the tranquility of coexisting with turtles on Derawan Island, every corner of this archipelago offers an unforgettable story. The journey here may require more effort in terms of logistics and cost, but it will all be worth it when you witness the crystal blue waters and its enchanting underwater wealth.
More than just a holiday destination, Derawan is a reminder of the importance of balance between tourism and conservation. By being a responsible tourist—respecting local culture, following conservation rules, and maintaining sea cleanliness—we contribute to ensuring that this beauty remains for future generations to enjoy. If you are looking for a place where nature still reigns supreme and tranquility is the ultimate luxury, then the Derawan Islands are the answer. Prepare your gear, and let this paradise in East Kalimantan change the way you see the world.