Introduction
Welcome to the heart of the Spice Islands, a cluster of islands in eastern Indonesia that once served as the economic center of gravity for the entire world. Retracing the Spice Route is more than just a typical vacation; it is a historical pilgrimage through time, where the scent of cloves and nutmeg once sparked global expeditions, massive wars, and cultural exchanges that shaped modern civilization. North Maluku and the Banda Islands are not merely dots on a map—they are silent witnesses to the ambitions of European nations like the Portuguese, Spanish, English, and Dutch, who vied for the 'black gold' and 'round gold' that grew only in this soil.
This itinerary is designed to guide you through sturdy old forts, lush nutmeg plantations, and breathtaking underwater landscapes in Ternate, Tidore, Ambon, and Banda Neira. Here, history is not just written in old books; it is felt in the sea breeze and the hospitality of the locals who still maintain the traditions of their ancestors. For travelers seeking depth of meaning, untouched natural beauty, and a powerful historical narrative, this journey offers a transformative experience. Let us begin the adventure of tracing the footprints of Nusantara's glory that once changed the face of the world.
History & Background
The history of Maluku is the history of the world. For centuries, these islands were the only source of nutmeg (Myristica fragrans) and cloves (Syzygium aromaticum) on earth. Nutmeg, native to the Banda Islands, and cloves from Ternate, Tidore, Motir, Makian, and Bacan, held an economic value far exceeding gold at the time. These spices were used as food preservatives, medicines, and symbols of high social status in Europe and Central Asia.
In the 15th century, the fall of Constantinople to the Ottoman Empire cut off overland trade routes between Asia and Europe. This forced European nations to undertake legendary maritime explorations. Vasco da Gama, Christopher Columbus, and Ferdinand Magellan were all obsessed with finding a direct route to the Spice Islands. The Portuguese were the first Europeans to reach Maluku in 1512, followed by the Spanish, and later a fierce rivalry between the English and the Dutch through the VOC (Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie).
One of the most significant events in world history occurred in Banda Neira. Through the Treaty of Breda in 1667, the English agreed to hand over Run Island in the Banda archipelago to the Dutch in exchange for a small island in North America called Manhattan (New York). This exchange demonstrates how precious nutmeg was compared to the territory that is now a global financial hub. During the colonial era, the Dutch monopolized the spice trade with an iron fist, including the 1621 massacre of the native Bandanese under Jan Pieterszoon Coen to secure nutmeg production.
However, behind the colonial brutality lies a heroic history of resistance from the Sultanates of Ternate and Tidore. Sultan Baabullah of Ternate, known as the 'Ruler of 72 Islands,' famously expelled the Portuguese from his lands. To this day, the social and cultural fabric of Maluku remains influenced by this long history, creating a unique blend of Islamic, Christian, and local traditions under the spirit of brotherhood known as 'Pela Gandong.'
Main Attractions
1. Ternate & Tidore: The Northern Gateway
In North Maluku, the journey begins in Ternate, a volcanic island dominated by Mount Gamalama.
- Fort Tolukko & Fort Oranje: The Portuguese-built Fort Tolukko offers spectacular views of the sea and Halmahera Island. Meanwhile, Fort Oranje served as the VOC's first headquarters in Indonesia before it moved to Batavia.
- Lake Ngade & Lake Tolire: These spots offer iconic natural views where you can see Mount Gamalama and Maitara Island (immortalized on the old IDR 1,000 banknote) from a height.
- Sultan of Ternate's Kedaton: This functioning palace houses a mystical crown with hair that is said to grow miraculously.
2. Banda Neira: The Hidden Gem
Banda Neira is the pinnacle of the Spice Route. The town feels frozen in time with well-preserved colonial buildings.
- Fort Belgica: This pentagonal fort built by the Dutch is often called 'The Pentagon of the East.' From its towers, you can see the majestic Banda Api Volcano.
- Exile Houses of Hatta & Sjahrir: Here, the founding fathers of Indonesia were exiled by the Dutch. You can see Hatta's personal library and the small school he established for local children.
- Istana Mini: The first VOC Governor's office, which served as a prototype for the State Palace in Jakarta.
- Run Island & Ay Island: Visit the site of the legendary Manhattan exchange and see the world's oldest productive nutmeg plantations.
3. Ambon: City of Music & Fort Amsterdam
Ambon is not just a logistical hub but a cultural center.
- Fort Amsterdam: Located in Hila, this fort is the oldest Dutch-built structure in Ambon with remarkably well-preserved architecture.
- Immanuel Old Church: Situated near the Wapauwe Old Mosque, it stands as a symbol of religious harmony that has endured for centuries.
- Ora Beach: Although a bit far from Ambon city center, the beauty of this 'Maldives of Indonesia' is a must-visit for nature lovers.
Travel Tips & Logistics
Best Time to Visit:
The best time to visit Maluku is during the dry season, between October and April. During these months, the sea is generally calm, which is crucial as inter-island transport relies heavily on speedboats or ferries. For Banda Neira, be sure to check the schedules for Pelni ships or Sabuk Nusantara, as pioneer flights are often unpredictable.
Transportation:
1. Air: Fly into Sultan Babullah Airport (TTE) in Ternate or Pattimura Airport (AMQ) in Ambon from Jakarta or Makassar.
2. Sea: To reach Banda Neira, the best options are the Express Bahari Fast Boat from Ambon (approx. 6 hours) or Pelni ships (such as KM Nggapulu or KM Tidar) which take 8-10 hours.
3. Local: Within cities, you can use ojek (motorcycle taxis), angkot (minibuses), or rent a car. In Banda Neira, almost everything is reachable on foot or by renting a small 'ketinting' boat.
Budget & Costs:
Maluku can be a relatively expensive destination due to transportation logistics. Budget around IDR 700,000 - 1,200,000 per day for a moderate budget (including accommodation, meals, and local boat rentals). Ensure you carry enough cash, especially when heading to smaller islands like Banda, as ATMs are limited.
Etiquette & Preparation:
- Dress modestly when visiting historical sites and places of worship.
- Ask for permission before taking photos of local people.
- Be physically prepared for light trekking and snorkeling.
- Use reef-safe sunscreen to protect the pristine coral reefs.
Cuisine & Local Experience
Maluku's cuisine is a fusion of fresh seafood and rich spices. You must not miss:
- Papeda & Ikan Kuah Kuning: The staple food of Maluku made from sago, served with fish cooked in a fresh and sour turmeric broth.
- Gohu Ikan: Often called 'Ternate Sashimi,' it consists of raw tuna mixed with calamansi juice, fried peanuts, and basil.
- Halua Kenari: A sweet snack made from walnuts and palm sugar.
- Kopi Rarobang: Ambon's signature coffee mixed with ginger, cloves, cinnamon, and topped with walnut sprinkles—a liquid representation of the Spice Route.
Beyond the food, try the 'Makan Patita' experience, a tradition of communal dining with villagers on long tables covered in banana leaves, where various local dishes are served as a form of thanksgiving. In Banda, you can also try unique nutmeg jam and refreshing nutmeg syrup after a day of exploring forts.
Conclusion
Tracing the Spice Route in North Maluku and Banda is a journey back to the roots of modern history. Here, you will find that every street corner, every stone of a fort, and every nutmeg seed has a story of courage, exploration, and cultural resilience. The world-class underwater beauty combined with a deep historical narrative makes Maluku a destination like no other in the world. By visiting these places, we not only learn about the past but also appreciate how tiny spices from the east of Nusantara connected nations and changed the course of human history forever. Pack your bags, and let the aroma of cloves lead you to an unforgettable adventure in the Spice Islands.
FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)
- Is it safe to travel solo to Maluku? Yes, Maluku is very safe for solo travelers; the locals are extremely friendly and helpful.
- Do I need a tour guide? It is highly recommended to hire a local guide in Banda Neira to understand the deep historical details of each site.
- What about internet connectivity? In major cities like Ternate and Ambon, 4G signals are excellent, but in Banda Neira, signals may be limited to specific providers.