Introduction

Welcome to North Maluku, an archipelago steeped in history, culture, and of course, the spices that once captivated the world. For centuries, this land was fiercely contested by European explorers due to its invaluable treasures of nutmeg and cloves. This 4-day journey will guide you tracing the trails of past glory, from magnificent colonial forts to traditional villages that have preserved their heritage. Prepare to be enchanted by its exotic natural beauty, meet its friendly people, and savor its rich culinary delights inspired by spices. North Maluku is not just an ordinary tourist destination; it's a journey back in time, feeling the pulse of history that shaped global civilization. Let's embark on this unforgettable adventure!

History & Background

North Maluku, often referred to as the "Spice Islands," played a pivotal role in global history, particularly during the age of maritime exploration. Since the 15th century, spices like nutmeg (Myristica fragrans) and cloves (Syzygium aromaticum), which thrived exclusively in this region, were the most valuable commodities in the world. Their value, equivalent to or even exceeding gold at the time, spurred European nations such as Portugal, Spain, the Netherlands, and England to compete fiercely for control of trade routes and spice sources.

The first Europeans arrived in North Maluku in the early 16th century. The Portuguese, led by Antonio de Abreu and Francisco Serrão, reached Ternate in 1511, one of the oldest Islamic sultanates in the archipelago and a major center of the spice trade. They established their first fort, Nossa Senhora de Annunciada (now Fort Tolukko), in Ternate in 1512. Their primary objective was to secure a monopoly on the spice trade, which was previously dominated by Arab and Javanese merchants.

In 1522, the Spanish also arrived and established their own fort in Tidore, Ternate's rival kingdom. The rivalry between the Portuguese and the Spanish, as well as between Ternate and Tidore, characterized the historical dynamics of North Maluku for centuries. Wars and shifting alliances colored the political landscape of these islands.

The Dutch, through the Vereenigde Oostindische Compagnie (VOC), entered the historical scene of North Maluku in the 17th century. With a more aggressive and organized strategy, the VOC managed to expel the Portuguese and Spanish from the region. By 1641, the VOC controlled Ternate and Tidore, building strategic forts such as Fort Oranje in Ternate and Fort Tahula in Tidore. Under VOC rule, the exploitation of spices reached its peak. They implemented strict monopoly policies, including the "Hongi Tochten" (punitive expeditions) to destroy nutmeg and clove trees in areas that did not comply or were outside their reach, in order to maintain high prices in the European market. Local sultans were often forced to sign disadvantageous treaties.

After the VOC's bankruptcy in the late 18th century, the Dutch government took direct control of their colonies. This period was marked by various local rebellions against foreign dominance, such as the Pattimura rebellion (though Pattimura hailed from South Maluku, his spirit of resistance influenced North Maluku). Over time, Dutch influence grew stronger, integrating North Maluku into the Dutch East Indies.

World War II brought significant changes. Japan occupied North Maluku in 1942, temporarily replacing the Dutch. After Japan's defeat, North Maluku became part of the United States of Indonesia in 1949 and later became a separate province in 1957. This historical journey has left a rich legacy, from the grand architecture of colonial forts and enduring sultanate traditions to the cultural influences interwoven between local inhabitants and newcomers. Understanding this history is key to appreciating the cultural richness and natural beauty of North Maluku that you are about to explore.

Main Attractions

This 4-day journey through North Maluku will immerse you in the heart of the spice trade history, lead you to explore historic forts, and allow you to revel in breathtaking natural beauty. The primary focus of this itinerary is Ternate and Tidore, two historically significant islands that once served as centers of Sultanate power and the epicentre of the spice trade rivalry.

Day 1: Arrival in Ternate & Sultanate Traces

Fort Oranje (Ternate Fort): Begin your exploration in Ternate by visiting Fort Oranje. Built by the Portuguese in 1607 and expanded by the Dutch in 1619, this fort is one of the largest colonial remnants in North Maluku. Walk along its sturdy walls, explore its bastions, and imagine the lives of VOC soldiers and officials in the past. The fort now houses a museum displaying various historical artifacts, including old cannons and inscriptions.
Sultanate Palace of Ternate (Kedaton): Visit the official residence of the Sultan of Ternate. Although most of the original structures have been reconstructed, the palace remains a symbol of the enduring power and living tradition of the sultanate. You can view historical relics such as the sultan's throne, traditional attire, and various other heirlooms. If you are fortunate, you might meet members of the royal family or witness a traditional ceremony.
Sultanate Mosque of Ternate: Located not far from the palace, this mosque has been the religious center of the Ternate Sultanate for centuries. Its distinctive architecture reflects a blend of local styles and the Islamic influence brought by Arab traders.
Taman Nukila: Enjoy your afternoon at Taman Nukila, a beautiful seaside park in the heart of Ternate city. This spot is popular among locals for relaxation, enjoying the sea breeze, and sampling local snacks. From here, you can admire the captivating view of Ternate Bay.

Day 2: To Tidore & The History of Spice Rivalry

Journey to Tidore: After breakfast, take a speedboat or ferry from Ternate to Tidore Island. This short sea crossing offers scenic views of the two historically rich, neighboring islands.
Fort Tahula (Tidore Fort): Upon arrival in Tidore, visit Fort Tahula, the main fort built by the Spanish in 1613 to counter Portuguese influence in Ternate. This fort is strategically perched on a hilltop with commanding views of the sea and Ternate Island. Explore the still-sturdy ruins of the fort and feel its historical atmosphere.
Fort Mareku: Another fort worth visiting is Fort Mareku, also built by the Spanish. Its lower position on the coast provides a different perspective on maritime defense during the colonial era.
Other Historical Sites in Tidore: Explore the local villages in Tidore, experiencing the life of a community deeply connected to tradition. You might discover other historical remnants or meet local figures who can share stories about Tidore's past.
Return to Ternate: In the afternoon, return to Ternate to rest and prepare for the next day.

Day 3: Natural Beauty & Culture Around Ternate

Lake Tolire: Visit Lake Tolire, a unique volcanic crater lake with an almost perfectly circular shape. Local legends say the lake is inhabited by mystical guardians and has infinite depth. Enjoy its tranquil natural beauty and the fresh mountain air.
Coban Nanga Waterfall: If time permits and you enjoy nature adventures, visit Coban Nanga Waterfall. This waterfall offers a pristine and refreshing environment, surrounded by lush green vegetation.
Soekarno's Exile House (Optional): For fans of national history, visit the former residence where President Soekarno was exiled by the Dutch in the 1930s. This site is now a museum housing various memorabilia and documentary photographs.
Ternate Traditional Market: Explore the traditional market to observe the daily lives of the local people. Here you can find fresh produce, handicrafts, and of course, various types of spices sold by local vendors.

Day 4: Local Experience & Departure

Morning Culinary Tour: Enjoy a typical North Maluku breakfast or explore local eateries to sample delicious morning dishes.
Souvenir Shopping: Utilize your last moments to buy typical North Maluku souvenirs, such as nutmeg, cloves, kopra (desiccated coconut), or handicrafts made from wood or shells.
Departure Preparations: Head to Sultan Babullah Airport in Ternate for your return flight.

Note: This itinerary is flexible and can be adjusted according to your interests and available time. Inter-island transportation typically involves speedboats or ferries. Within the city, you can use motorcycle taxis (ojek), taxis, or rent a vehicle.

Travel Tips & Logistics

Planning a trip to North Maluku requires thorough preparation, especially considering its remote location and developing infrastructure. Here are some essential tips to ensure your journey is smooth and enjoyable:

1. Best Time to Visit:

Dry Season (June - September): This period generally offers the best weather for tourism, with clear skies and relatively calm seas. It's ideal for outdoor activities and inter-island travel.
Transition Season (October - November & April - May): The weather can be more unpredictable, with occasional rain. However, tourist crowds are smaller, and accommodation prices might be more affordable.
Rainy Season (December - March): Rain can be more frequent and intense, potentially limiting outdoor activities and sea travel. However, for those seeking tranquility and lush natural beauty, this period can still be enjoyable.

2. Transportation:

Flights: The main airport in North Maluku is Sultan Babullah Airport (TTE) in Ternate. You can fly to Ternate from major Indonesian cities like Jakarta, Surabaya, Makassar, or Manado. Airlines serving these routes include Garuda Indonesia, Lion Air, Citilink, and Batik Air.
Inter-Island Travel: For travel between Ternate and Tidore, you can use speedboats, which are more expensive but faster, or regular ferries, which are more economical but take longer. Ferry schedules can change, so always check the latest information at the port.
On Land: In Ternate and Tidore, public transportation like minivans (angkot) or motorcycle taxis (ojek) are available for getting around the city. Renting a car with a driver is also a comfortable option, especially if you are traveling in a group or desire flexibility.

3. Accommodation:

Ternate: Ternate offers a range of accommodation options, from star-rated hotels to simpler guesthouses (losmen). Choose accommodation that suits your budget and preferences. Some popular hotels are located in the city center with sea views.
Tidore: Accommodation options in Tidore are more limited compared to Ternate. You might find local guesthouses or homestays that offer a more authentic experience. Booking in advance is highly recommended, especially if you plan to stay.

4. Visa & Documents:

Visa: Tourists from ASEAN countries generally enjoy visa-free entry to Indonesia for short stays. Tourists from other countries may require a visa. Be sure to check the latest visa requirements before your departure.
Documents: Always carry your identification (KTP/Passport) and other travel documents. Keep photocopies of important documents separately.

5. Health & Safety:

Vaccinations: Consult your doctor regarding recommended vaccinations for tropical regions, such as yellow fever or typhoid.
Medications: Bring a basic first-aid kit and any personal medications you need, as medication availability in remote areas might be limited.
Drinking Water: Drink bottled water to avoid digestive issues.
Insect Bites: Use mosquito repellent, especially at dusk and during the night, to protect yourself from mosquito and other insect bites.
Safety: North Maluku is generally safe for tourists. However, remain vigilant about your belongings and avoid walking alone in deserted areas at night.

6. Money & Payments:

Currency: The currency used is the Rupiah (IDR).
ATMs: ATMs are available in Ternate, especially in the city center. In Tidore, ATM availability might be more limited, so it's advisable to carry sufficient cash.
Payments: Most major hotels and restaurants in Ternate accept credit cards. However, in local eateries, markets, and for transportation, cash payment is the most common.

7. Other Important Notes:

Language: Indonesian is the official language. Local languages like Ternate and Tidore are also spoken. Learning a few basic Indonesian phrases will greatly facilitate your interactions with the local population.
Clothing: Pack light and comfortable clothing suitable for tropical weather. Modest attire is recommended when visiting places of worship or interacting with local communities.
Power Adapters: Electrical sockets in Indonesia are typically Type C and F with a voltage of 220V. Bring a universal adapter if needed.
Phone Signal & Internet: Mobile phone signals and internet are available in Ternate, but may be less stable in remote areas or on smaller islands.
Respect Local Culture: Always show respect for local customs and traditions. Ask for permission before taking photos of people or places of worship.

With good planning, your journey tracing the spice trails in North Maluku will be an unforgettable experience.

Cuisine & Local Experience

A trip to North Maluku would be incomplete without exploring its unique culinary richness and experiencing the warmth of its community culture firsthand. Renowned as the "Spice Islands," the flavors of the cuisine here are heavily influenced by the abundant spices, combined with fresh seafood and distinct local culinary traditions.

Signature North Maluku Cuisine:

Ikan Bakar (Grilled Fish): Given its location surrounded by the sea, fresh fish is a staple dish. Grilled fish with signature North Maluku spice marinades, such as nutmeg, cloves, and ginger, offer an irresistible aroma and taste. This dish is often served with spicy and fresh sambal colo-colo.
Sambal Colo-colo: This iconic North Maluku chili paste is made from sliced bird's eye chilies, shallots, tomatoes, basil, and lime juice. Its spicy, sour, and fresh taste pairs perfectly with grilled fish, fried chicken, or other seafood dishes.
Gohu Ikan: Similar to sashimi or Latin American ceviche, gohu ikan is a dish of raw fish (usually tuna or skipjack) diced and marinated in a rich spice mixture including lime juice, shallots, chili, basil, and coconut oil. Its fresh, sour, and slightly spicy taste provides a unique sensation on the palate.
Tinutuan (Manado Porridge - strong influence): Although more identified with Manado, tinutuan is also popular in Ternate. This savory porridge is made from a mixture of vegetables like pumpkin, water spinach, spinach, corn, and sweet potato, cooked with broth and spice seasonings.
Nasi Cengkeh (Clove Rice): Rice cooked with added cloves and other spices, giving it a distinctive fragrant aroma and a slightly sweet taste.
Nutmeg: Don't miss the nutmeg products, such as candied nutmeg, nutmeg syrup, or simply fresh ground nutmeg that you can buy as souvenirs. Nutmeg is not only used as a cooking spice but is also believed to have health benefits.

Unforgettable Local Experiences:

Interaction with the Community: The people of North Maluku are known for their friendliness and openness. Don't hesitate to greet them, ask about their culture, or simply chat. Visiting a traditional market is the best way to observe daily life and interact with local vendors.
Sultanate Culture: Visiting the sultanate palaces in Ternate and Tidore offers deep insight into the still-existing monarchical system. If possible, attend traditional ceremonies or local festivals to experience their rich culture firsthand.
Marine Tourism: Besides history, North Maluku also offers stunning underwater beauty. If time permits, dedicate time to snorkeling or diving in its clear waters, rich in coral reefs and marine life.
Tasting Local Coffee: Coffee grown on the volcanic slopes of Ternate has a strong and unique flavor. Enjoy a cup of local coffee at a traditional coffee shop while soaking in the morning ambiance.
Learning Local Crafts: Observe or even try to create local handicrafts, such as wood carvings or shell crafts. This can be an interesting way to appreciate the traditional skills of the local people.

Exploring the local cuisine and interacting with the community will enrich your experience in North Maluku, providing a deeper understanding of its cultural heritage and the hospitality of its people.

Conclusion

Four days tracing the spice trails in North Maluku is a journey that tantalizes the taste buds, captivates the eyes, and enriches the soul. From the grand forts that bear silent witness to the scramble for nutmeg and cloves, to the mystical natural beauty of Lake Tolire, every corner of this archipelago holds a captivating story. You have been invited to feel the pulse of history that shaped the world, savor the authentic taste of spices, and interact with the warm local people. North Maluku is not just a tourist destination; it is a transformative experience that connects you with a rich past and a mesmerizing present. Take home not only spice souvenirs but also invaluable memories of the beauty and cultural heritage of North Maluku.

4 Days Tracing Spice Trails in North Maluku