Introduction

South Kalimantan, a hidden gem in the heart of Borneo, holds tales of past glory that are often overlooked amidst the glitz of popular tourist destinations. Amongst its enchanting natural beauty lies the magnificent trace of the Banjar Kingdom, a political and cultural entity that once thrived and shaped the unique identity of the Dayak and Banjar people. For explorers yearning for authentic experiences, seeking destinations rich in history, and wishing to delve into profound cultural heritage, South Kalimantan offers an unforgettable adventure. This article will guide you through the footsteps of the Banjar Kingdom, from its grand palaces that now stand as silent witnesses to its enduring traditions that are still preserved today. Prepare to be captivated by South Kalimantan's hidden cultural heritage, a treasure waiting to be discovered.

History & Background

The Banjar Kingdom, which stood strong for centuries in the region now known as South Kalimantan, was one of the most important maritime kingdoms in the archipelago. Founded in the early 16th century, around 1520 AD, by Prince Samudera, a descendant of the Majapahit Kingdom, this kingdom grew rapidly thanks to its strategic location on riverbanks and its abundant natural resources, particularly diamonds and forest products.

Origins and Founding: The history of the Banjar Kingdom is often linked to the migration and fusion of the indigenous Dayak people and migrants from Java. Prince Samudera, believed to be the first king, succeeded in uniting various regions around the Banjar River (now the Barito River) and proclaimed himself Sultan of Banjar. The kingdom's capital moved several times, but the most famous was Banjarmasin, founded in 1595 by Prince Antasari.

Golden Age: The peak of the Banjar Kingdom's glory occurred between the 17th and 18th centuries. The kingdom had a well-organized governance system, with a strong sultanate structure and a clear noble hierarchy. Trading activities formed the backbone of its economy, with ports like Banjarmasin becoming meeting points for merchants from various corners, both from the archipelago and abroad. The primary commodities traded included diamonds, gold, pepper, rattan, and other forest products. The influence of Islam grew stronger over time, shaping the cultural and social fabric of the Banjar community.

Strategic Role: The geographical location of the Banjar Kingdom, facing the Java Sea and the Makassar Strait, made it a key player in the maritime trade network. Its natural wealth, especially the renowned Martapura diamonds that reached foreign lands, attracted the attention of European colonial powers, particularly the Dutch. This led to various conflicts and treaties that ultimately affected the kingdom's sovereignty.

Struggle Against Colonialism: From the 17th century onwards, the Dutch began to show interest in controlling trade in the Banjar region. Various unbalanced trade agreements and political interventions started to occur. The peak of resistance came in the 19th century under the leadership of Prince Antasari. The Banjar War (1859-1863) was a clear testament to the fighting spirit of the Banjar people in defending their independence and sovereignty from the grip of Dutch colonialism. Although the kingdom was eventually divided and its territory incorporated into the Dutch East Indies, the spirit of resistance and the cultural heritage of Banjar remained deeply imprinted.

Cultural Legacy: The Banjar Kingdom left behind a rich and diverse cultural heritage, ranging from social systems, customary laws, arts (music, dance, literature), to architecture. The Banjar language itself has its own distinctiveness. Oral traditions, such as epics and poems, were important mediums for disseminating the kingdom's values and history. Physical traces like royal tombs, remnants of forts, and other historical buildings can still be found, serving as silent witnesses to the glory and struggles of the Banjar Kingdom. Understanding this history is key to appreciating the true cultural richness of South Kalimantan.

Main Attractions

Tracing the footsteps of the Banjar Kingdom in South Kalimantan means opening doors to various historical and cultural sites that offer profound experiences. From centers of power to spiritual sites, each place holds valuable stories and heritage.

1. Sultan Suriansyah Mosque & Royal Cemetery of Banjar

Location: Jl. Kuin Utara, Banjarmasin.
Description: This is the spiritual and historical heart of the Banjar Kingdom. The Sultan Suriansyah Mosque, believed to have been built during the reign of Sultan Suriansyah (the first sultan to embrace Islam), is one of the oldest mosques in Banjarmasin. Its distinctive architecture with tiered wooden roofs and no minaret makes it unique. Adjacent to the mosque is the royal cemetery of the Banjar rulers, including the tombs of Sultan Suriansyah, Sultan Mustain Billah, and other important figures. These tombs serve as pilgrimage sites and historical reflection points.
Experience: Visitors can feel a strong spiritual aura, admire the mosque's historic architecture, and contemplate the glory and long journey of the Banjar Kingdom. It's a perfect place to begin your exploration.

2. Lambung Mangkurat Museum

Location: Jl. Jend. Ahmad Yani Km. 3.5, Banjarmasin.
Description: This museum houses a collection of artifacts and historical objects related to the culture of Banjar and South Kalimantan in general, including relics from the Banjar Kingdom era. You will find a variety of items such as royal regalia, traditional weapons, ancient manuscripts, handicrafts, and traditional attire.
Experience: The museum provides a comprehensive overview of the life of the Banjar people in the past, including social, economic, and artistic aspects. It's an excellent source of information to understand the historical context of other sites you will visit.

3. Martapura Area (Diamond Producing Region)

Location: Martapura, Banjar Regency (approximately 45 km from Banjarmasin).
Description: Martapura is known as the "Diamond City" because it is the largest center for diamond processing and trading in South Kalimantan, an economic legacy rooted in the Banjar Kingdom era. Here you can visit diamond processing centers, witness the cutting and polishing of gemstones firsthand, and hunt for diamonds of various sizes and qualities.
Experience: A truly unique experience is visiting the diamond market, observing the interactions of traders, and feeling the pulse of an economy that has been ongoing for centuries. You can also visit local jewelry shops to admire stunning diamond artworks.

4. Barito River and Traditional Banjar Houses (Rumah Bubungan Tinggi)

Location: Along the Barito River, especially in areas like Alalak, Banjarmasin, and several other villages.
Description: The Barito River was the lifeline of the Banjar Kingdom. Exploring this river by klotok (small motorboat) offers a different perspective on how the Banjar people live alongside the river. Along the riverbanks, you can see distinctive traditional Banjar houses, particularly the Rumah Bubungan Tinggi. These houses are characterized by their high, curved roofs resembling a boat's hull, made of durable ulin wood (ironwood), and built without nails.
Experience: Taking a klotok ride along the Barito River is a classic South Kalimantan experience. You'll observe the daily activities of people on the riverbanks, floating markets (if you're lucky and at the right time), and the beauty of the Rumah Bubungan Tinggi architecture, which reflects local wisdom and adaptation to the environment.

5. Sultan Adam Cemetery Complex

Location: Martapura, Banjar Regency.
Description: This cemetery complex is another important site related to the Banjar dynasty. Sultan Adam was one of the sultans who ruled during a crucial period in the kingdom's history. His magnificent tomb, surrounded by a tranquil atmosphere, is a worthy place to visit for those who wish to delve deeper into the lineage and history of the Banjar rulers.
Experience: Visiting this complex provides further insight into the power structure and the royal burial traditions of the Banjar nobility. Its peaceful ambiance is conducive to historical reflection.

6. Fort Remnants and Historical Sites

Description: Although much has been lost to time and change, there are still remnants of forts or sites related to the battles and defenses of the Banjar Kingdom, especially those connected to the Banjar War. Historical researchers and archaeologists sometimes discover new sites. Seeking information from locals or tour guides can help locate these lesser-known spots.
Experience: Discovering and exploring fort remnants provides a tangible glimpse into the kingdom's struggles to defend its territory. This is a true "off-the-beaten-path" experience.

Interesting Facts:

The diamonds found in Martapura are often of exceptional quality and clarity, making them a valuable export commodity for the Banjar Kingdom.
The Rumah Bubungan Tinggi is not only beautiful but also functional, designed to withstand floods and tropical weather.
Banjarmasin itself was built on swampland, demonstrating the adaptability of the Banjar people to their unique environment.

By visiting these sites, you not only see historical buildings or places but also connect directly with the pulse of life and glory of the Banjar Kingdom, a rich cultural heritage in South Kalimantan.

Travel Tips & Logistics

Planning a trip to trace the footsteps of the Banjar Kingdom in South Kalimantan requires careful preparation to ensure your experience is smooth and maximized. Here are some important tips and logistical information:

Transportation

Getting to South Kalimantan: Syamsudin Noor Airport (BDJ) in Banjarbaru is the main air gateway. Flights are available from major Indonesian cities like Jakarta, Surabaya, Yogyakarta, and Denpasar. You can also travel by sea to Trisakti Port in Banjarmasin.
In Banjarmasin and Surroundings:
Taxis & Ojek (Motorcycle Taxis): Conventional taxis and ride-hailing apps (Gojek/Grab) are available for mobility within Banjarmasin city.
Klotok Boats: These are iconic modes of transportation in South Kalimantan, especially for river travel. You can rent them to visit floating markets or traditional houses along the river. Prices vary depending on duration and distance; negotiate before departing.
Car Rental: If you plan to explore Martapura and wider areas, renting a car with a driver is a comfortable option. Many local travel agents offer such packages.
Public Minibuses (Angkot): For certain routes, angkots still operate, though they may be less comfortable for tourists.

Accommodation

Banjarmasin offers a diverse range of accommodation options, from star-rated hotels to more affordable lodgings.

Star Hotels: Look for hotels in the city center of Banjarmasin for easy access to facilities and attractions.
Local Guesthouses: Simpler guesthouses and inns are available, often offering more budget-friendly prices.
Homestays: For a more authentic experience, consider staying in homestays in riverside villages, though availability may be limited and require further research.

Best Time to Visit

Dry Season (June - September): This period is generally preferred by tourists due to relatively low rainfall, facilitating outdoor activities and river exploration.
Rainy Season (October - May): Although it rains frequently, South Kalimantan remains an attractive destination. Floating markets might be livelier, and the riverine atmosphere is more vibrant. Be prepared with rain gear.
Cultural Festivals: Check the local event calendar. If you're lucky, you might witness traditional festivals or religious celebrations that enrich your experience.

Practical Tips

Clothing: Wear comfortable, lightweight, and breathable clothing due to the hot and humid tropical weather. Also, pack modest attire for visiting places of worship like mosques.
Essentials: Bring sunscreen, a hat, sunglasses, mosquito repellent, and personal first-aid supplies. If planning to go on a boat, ensure you use a life jacket provided by the service provider or use a personal floatation device if necessary.
Language: Indonesian is the primary language. The Banjar language is also widely spoken, but most residents, especially in the city, understand and can communicate in Indonesian.
Currency: Rupiah (IDR).
Local Etiquette: Respect local customs and traditions, especially when visiting religious sites and cemeteries. Ask for permission before taking photos of people, particularly women.
Health: Ensure you are in good health. Drink bottled mineral water to avoid digestive issues. If you have specific medical conditions, consult your doctor before traveling.
Price Negotiation: In traditional markets or when renting boats, price negotiation is common. Do it politely and friendly.
Safety: South Kalimantan is generally safe for tourists. However, remain vigilant about your belongings, especially in crowded places.
Local Guides: It is highly recommended to hire local guides, especially when visiting historical sites or exploring rivers. They can provide in-depth insights that you won't get from guidebooks.

Estimated Costs (Rough Estimate per Person)

Accommodation: IDR 150,000 - IDR 500,000 per night (depending on choice).
Local Transportation: IDR 50,000 - IDR 150,000 per day (depending on usage intensity).
Klotok Boat Rental: IDR 200,000 - IDR 500,000 per day (depending on duration and destination).
Entrance Fees & Donations: Generally affordable, around IDR 5,000 - IDR 20,000 per site.
Food: IDR 50,000 - IDR 150,000 per day.

Note: These costs are estimates and can vary depending on your travel style, accommodation choices, and selected activities. Always prepare a buffer for unexpected expenses.

With good planning, exploring the legacy of the Banjar Kingdom will be a rich and memorable experience, broadening your understanding of the unique history and culture of South Kalimantan.

Cuisine & Local Experience

A journey tracing the Banjar Kingdom's legacy wouldn't be complete without savoring the culinary richness and local experiences South Kalimantan has to offer. The culinary culture here is heavily influenced by its abundant natural resources and the strong traditions of the Banjar people.

1. Distinct River Flavors

As the life of the Banjar people is closely tied to rivers, freshwater seafood is a prime delicacy. Fresh fish like gabus (snakehead), patin (catfish), nila (tilapia), and haruan (snakehead) are prepared in various delicious dishes.

Ikan Gabus Masak (Cooked Snakehead Fish): Especially gangan asam banjar, a sour and fresh snakehead fish soup rich in spices, often with the addition of starfruit for its characteristic tanginess. This is a must-try dish.
Sate Ikan (Fish Satay): Different from typical satay, Banjar fish satay uses pounded snakehead fish, seasoned, shaped like meatballs, and then grilled. Served with peanut sauce or other special marinades.

2. Influence of Spices and Traditions

The use of spices in Banjar cuisine is rich, reflecting past trade routes. Dishes tend to be savory, slightly sweet, and aromatic.

Nasi Kuning Banjar (Banjar Yellow Rice): Rice cooked with coconut milk and turmeric has a distinctive aroma and flavor. Served with various accompaniments like fried chicken, omelets, dried fish, and chili paste.
Ayam Masak Habang (Red-Cooked Chicken): Chicken cooked in a distinctive reddish-brown sauce (from the use of red chilies and cinnamon), giving it a unique sweet and savory taste.
Sasirangan: This is not food but a traditional Banjar fabric dyed using a traditional tie-dye technique. Visiting sasirangan artisans and observing their creation process is a valuable cultural experience.

3. Market Snacks and Refreshing Drinks

Apam: A traditional cake made from rice flour, sugar, and coconut milk, cooked by steaming or baking. There are various types of apam, including the famous apam barabai.
Bingka: A rich, flower-shaped cake with a soft texture, made from flour, coconut milk, and sugar. Often served during special occasions.
Cendol Banjar: A refreshing drink made from rice flour, coconut milk, palm sugar, and ice. Perfect for quenching thirst in the tropical weather.

4. Unique Local Experiences

Floating Markets: Visiting floating markets (like Lok Baintan Floating Market or Siring Tendean) is an unforgettable experience. You can witness trade happening on boats, taste local food directly from vendors, and interact with the local community. Early morning is the best time to visit.
Traditional Banjar Houses: Visiting or even staying in a Rumah Bubungan Tinggi provides direct insight into the traditional architecture and lifestyle of the Banjar people.
Craft Workshops: Participating in a short workshop on making traditional Banjar handicrafts, such as sasirangan or wood carving, can be a fun educational experience.
Watching Art Performances: If the opportunity arises, watch traditional Banjar art performances like dances (e.g., Tari Baksa Kembang) or Panting music.

Culinary Tips:

Don't hesitate to try local dishes at roadside eateries or traditional markets; often, that's where the authentic flavors are found.
Ask local residents for recommendations for the best eating places.
If you have food allergies or dietary restrictions, communicate them clearly when ordering.

Enjoying the local cuisine and interacting with the local community are the best ways to truly experience the pulse of the Banjar Kingdom's culture and South Kalimantan.

Conclusion

South Kalimantan is more than just its natural wealth; it is a captivating repository of history and culture, where the traces of the Banjar Kingdom's glory can still be felt. From historic mosques and sacred royal tombs to life-giving rivers and artistic traditional houses, every corner of this province offers an opportunity to connect with the past. Tracing the Banjar Kingdom's heritage is not just about visiting physical sites, but about understanding the spirit, traditions, and local wisdom that endure. For travelers seeking authentic, profound, and slightly different experiences, South Kalimantan is the perfect destination to discover hidden gems and celebrate Indonesia's extraordinary cultural richness. Your adventure awaits to uncover the hidden stories of the Banjar land.

Tracing the Footsteps of the Banjar Kingdom: South Kalimantan's Cultural Heritage