Introduction
Welcome to Sumba, an island in East Nusa Tenggara often dubbed the 'Forgotten Island,' which harbors an invaluable cultural wealth. Amidst the global tide of modernization, Sumba remains steadfast in preserving its identity through the Marapu tradition. Tracing the Marapu heritage is not just a typical tourist journey; it is a spiritual pilgrimage into a past that remains vibrantly alive today. Marapu is the indigenous religion of the Sumba people, worshiping ancestors and nature spirits, serving as the primary foundation for every aspect of Sumba life, from house architecture to burial rites.
One of the most striking features of Sumba culture is the presence of megalithic traditional villages scattered across the green hills. Here, you will find rows of high-roofed traditional houses called 'Uma Mbatangu,' symbolizing the connection between humans and the creator in the sky. However, the most mystical attraction is the presence of giant stone tombs located right in the center of the villages. These tombs are not merely final resting places but symbols of social status, spiritual power, and living proof that the Great Stone Age (megalithic) tradition persists in the 21st century.
This article will take you deeper into the heart of Sumba culture, exploring villages such as Ratenggaro, Prai Ijing, and Tarung, and understanding the philosophy behind the mighty stones that stand firm against time. Prepare to be mesmerized by the wild natural beauty and the profound local wisdom of Sumba Island.
History & Background
The history of Sumba is closely linked to ancient human migration and the development of megalithic culture in Southeast Asia. Unlike many regions in Indonesia that have been heavily influenced by major external religions, Sumba has successfully maintained the core of its ancient animistic belief: Marapu. Marapu is derived from the words 'Ma' (meaning the respected one) and 'Rapu' (meaning the hidden one or ancestor). For the Sumba people, death is not the end of everything but a transition to the spirit realm where ancestors continue to watch over and protect their descendants.
The tradition of erecting large stone tombs began thousands of years ago as the highest form of respect for nobles and traditional leaders. The process of building these stone tombs is an extraordinary collective effort. Giant stones weighing dozens of tons are pulled from distant hills to the center of the village using human power and the help of sacrificial animals. This process is known as 'Tarik Batu' (Stone Pulling), a ceremony involving hundreds of people, accompanied by traditional chants and animal sacrifices as offerings to the ancestral spirits. The larger the stone used, the higher the social status of the family building it.
Administratively, Sumba is divided into four regencies: West Sumba, Southwest Sumba, Central Sumba, and East Sumba. Each region has variations in dialects and slight differences in traditional details, but all are united by the reverence for Marapu. In West Sumba, particularly in the Waikabubak area, the concentration of traditional villages is very dense because the hilly topography facilitated defense in the past when inter-tribal warfare was frequent. Traditional houses were built on hilltops not only for security reasons but also to be closer to the sky, the abode of the gods.
Since the 1920s, Christian missionaries began entering Sumba, but uniquely, the new teachings often assimilated with local traditions. Many Sumba people today officially embrace Christianity or Catholicism, yet in their daily practices, they still perform Marapu rituals. This makes Sumba a living anthropological laboratory, where the past and present coexist harmoniously.
Main Attractions
1. Ratenggaro Traditional Village (Southwest Sumba)
Ratenggaro is an icon of Sumba tourism. Located on the coast with a clear river estuary, this village features traditional houses with the tallest tower roofs in all of Sumba, reaching 15 to 20 meters. The main uniqueness of Ratenggaro is the rows of ancient stone tombs facing directly toward the Indian Ocean. A magical atmosphere is palpable at sunset, when the silhouettes of the towering roofs blend with the sound of the waves and the silent megalithic stones.
2. Prai Ijing Traditional Village (West Sumba)
Located not far from the town of Waikabubak, Prai Ijing offers a very neat and aesthetic village layout. The houses here are arranged lengthwise following the contour of the hill. You can see the stilt house structure divided into three levels: the bottom for livestock, the middle for human activities, and the top (tower) for storing harvests and as the dwelling place for ancestral spirits. In the center of the village, there is a stone path flanked by megalithic tombs decorated with symbolic carvings such as buffaloes, horses, and humans.
3. Tarung and Waitabar Villages (Waikabubak)
These two villages are located side by side in the heart of Waikabubak city. Despite being in a busy center, the atmosphere inside the villages remains primal. Tarung Village is a center for important rituals, including the Wulla Poddu ceremony, the holy month for Marapu followers. Here, you can witness the daily activities of the residents, from weaving ikat textiles to traditional processions that are often held spontaneously.
4. Pasunga Megalithic Site (East Sumba)
For history buffs, Pasunga in East Sumba is a must-visit. Here lies one of the largest and most intricately carved stone tombs in Sumba. The carvings on these stones tell the family genealogy and the life achievements of the figures buried within. Unlike the greener West Sumba, East Sumba's dry savanna landscape provides a dramatic backdrop for these stone monuments.
5. Pasola Tradition
If you visit in February or March, you might have the chance to witness Pasola. This is a game of skill involving throwing wooden spears while riding horses, performed by two groups of Sumba warriors. Pasola is not just a sport; it is a fertility ritual to seek ancestral blessings for a bountiful harvest. The blood spilled on the ground during Pasola is considered an offering that will fertilize the earth.
Travel Tips & Logistics
Transportation
The best way to explore Sumba is to fly into Tambolaka Airport (TMC) in Southwest Sumba or Umbu Mehang Kunda Airport (WGP) in Waingapu, East Sumba. To get around, it is highly recommended to rent a car with a local driver (costing around IDR 700,000 - IDR 1,000,000 per day including fuel). The road terrain in Sumba is quite challenging with sharp turns and steep climbs, so an experienced driver is essential.
Visiting Etiquette
When entering a traditional village, there are several important rules to follow:
1. Report to the Village Head: Always ask for permission or sign the guest book at the village entrance.
2. Modest Clothing: Wear clothes that are not too revealing. It is recommended to wrap a Sumba ikat cloth as a form of respect.
3. Offering (Betel Nut): Traditionally, guests bring betel nut (sirih pinang) as a symbol of friendship. However, nowadays, voluntary donations (usually IDR 20,000 - IDR 50,000) are commonly accepted to help with village maintenance.
4. Photography Permission: Always ask for permission before photographing local residents or burial areas that are considered highly sacred.
Best Time to Visit
The dry season (May to October) is the best time because the roads are safer and the weather is clear for photography. However, if you want to see cultural festivals like Pasola, come in February or March (the exact dates are determined by the Rato/traditional priests based on the appearance of nyale or sea worms).
Accommodation
In Waikabubak and Tambolaka, there are many hotel options ranging from budget guesthouses to world-renowned luxury resorts like Nihi Sumba. For a more authentic experience, some traditional villages have started offering simple homestays inside traditional houses.
Cuisine & Local Experience
Exploring Sumba is incomplete without tasting its unique and humble cuisine. The staple foods for Sumba people, besides rice, are corn and tubers. One typical dish you must try is Manu Pata'u Ni, which is free-range chicken cooked with coconut milk and spices until very tender. It tastes savory and is rich in the aroma of local spices.
Additionally, there is Ro'o Luwa, a porridge made from finely pounded cassava leaves and cooked with coconut milk. This dish is usually served with hot rice and fresh grilled fish from the Sumba coast. For coffee lovers, don't miss Sumba Coffee, which has a strong earthy aroma and a unique flavor because it is grown in old volcanic soil.
The most memorable local experience is interacting with the artisans of Sumba Ikat Weaving. Each motif on these hand-woven cloths has deep meaning, such as the horse motif symbolizing heroism, or the turtle motif symbolizing longevity. The process of making a single piece of ikat can take months to years because it uses natural dyes from tree roots and plants. Buying ikat directly from the artisans in traditional villages is the best way to support the local economy and preserve this increasingly rare traditional art.
Conclusion
Sumba is a destination that offers more than just beautiful natural scenery. It is a gateway to the past, where humans live in harmony with nature and ancestral spirits. Through its megalithic villages and ancient stone tombs, Sumba teaches us the importance of maintaining cultural roots amidst rapid global change. Tracing the Marapu heritage will give you a new perspective on life, death, and the meaning of our existence in this world. Make your journey to Sumba a moment to reflect, learn, and appreciate this extraordinary world heritage. Sumba awaits you to explore it with deep respect and admiration.