Introduction
Welcome to East Nusa Tenggara (NTT), a region in Indonesia that serves as a living time capsule for human civilization. Amidst the global tide of modernization, the islands of Sumba and Flores stand firm in preserving a cultural heritage that spans thousands of years. Exploring the ancient megalithic villages in Sumba and Flores is more than just a sightseeing trip; it is a spiritual and anthropological pilgrimage to the roots of Indonesian identity. Here, massive stones carved by human hands are not merely inanimate objects but 'homes' for ancestors who continue to watch over their descendants.
NTT province offers an extraordinary contrast between vast savannah landscapes, exotic beaches, and unique vernacular architecture. Villages like Ratenggaro in Southwest Sumba or Bena in Central Flores are living proof that the Stone Age or megalithic era traditions are still vibrant and pulsing in the 21st century. The social structures, the Marapu belief system in Sumba, and the ancestral customs of the Ngada people in Flores create a cultural mosaic unlike any other in the world. This article will take you deep into every corner of these ancient villages, explaining the philosophy behind the high-roofed traditional houses and the sacredness of the giant stone tombs that dominate the landscape.
History & Background
Megalithic traditions in Eastern Indonesia, particularly in Sumba and Flores, are estimated to have developed since the Bronze and Iron Ages, yet uniquely, these traditions never truly died out. Unlike European megalithic sites like Stonehenge, which are now purely archaeological monuments, the 'big stone' tradition in NTT is still practiced today. The construction of stone tombs (dolmens) and stone pillars (menhirs) is still carried out by local communities to honor the deceased or mark significant events.
In Sumba, the indigenous belief is known as Marapu. Marapu is an original religion that venerates ancestral spirits as intermediaries between humans and the Creator. For the Sumbanese, a house is not just a place to live but a representation of the universe. The towering roofs symbolize the upper world (the realm of gods and spirits), the middle section is for humans, and the lower part is for livestock. The stone tombs located in front of the houses symbolize that the connection between the living and the dead is never severed. A single tombstone can weigh dozens of tons, and the process of moving it (known as 'Tarik Batu' or Stone Pulling) involves hundreds of people in a grand communal ceremony.
Meanwhile, in Flores, specifically in the Ngada Regency, the megalithic tradition is strongly represented through hierarchically structured villages. Bena Village, for instance, is estimated to have existed for over 1,200 years. The Ngada people hold a philosophy of balance between masculine and feminine elements, symbolized by the Ngadhu and Bhaga. The Ngadhu is a thatched-roof wooden pole representing male ancestors and bravery, while the Bhaga is a small hut resembling a traditional house representing female ancestors and fertility. The presence of flat stones (Loka) in the center of the village serves as an altar for worship and a place for customary deliberations. Oral histories passed down through generations ensure that every stone arrangement has a story, from clan origins to the history of ancient tribal warfare.
Main Attractions
The Exoticism of Sumba: Ratenggaro, Prai Ijing, and Tarung
1. Ratenggaro Village (Southwest Sumba): Located on a stunning coastline, Ratenggaro is famous for its traditional house roofs that reach heights of 15 to 20 meters. The main highlight here is the row of ancient megalithic tombs situated right on the beach's edge. A magical atmosphere prevails when the mist descends or when the sunset illuminates the silhouettes of the high roofs. The name 'Ratenggaro' means 'Garo People's Cemetery,' referring to the history of the conquest of that territory.
2. Prai Ijing Village (West Sumba): This village offers a view from above. Perched on a hill, Prai Ijing features a neat layout with megalithic stone tombs arranged along the village's main path. Visitors can climb a viewing tower to see the entire elongated structure of the village, a pattern common in ancient Sumba settlements for defense purposes.
3. Kampung Tarung (Waikabubak): Located right in the heart of Waikabubak town, Kampung Tarung is the spiritual center for Marapu followers. Despite suffering a major fire a few years ago, the residents' spirit to rebuild the village according to its original form is remarkable. Here, visitors can observe the process of making traditional Ikat weaving on the house verandas.
The Wonders of Flores: Bena, Gurusina, and Tololela
1. Bena Village (Ngada): Bena is the icon of cultural tourism in Flores. Located at the foot of Mount Inerie, the village has a terraced structure consisting of about 45 traditional houses. In the center of the village, there are megalithic stone formations called 'Loka' still used for animal sacrifice ceremonies. The beauty of the bamboo and wood architecture in Bena contrasts sharply with the backdrop of the towering volcano.
2. Gurusina Village: Not far from Bena, Gurusina offers a quieter but equally grand atmosphere. The houses feature intricate wood carvings telling the social status of the homeowners. Unfortunately, part of this village was once destroyed by fire, but reconstruction using traditional natural materials continues to maintain the site's authenticity.
3. Tololela Village: To reach this village, visitors must undertake a light trek through bamboo forests. Tololela often hosts the 'Bombu' traditional music festival, which uses instruments made from bamboo. Life in Tololela is very organic, where the community lives in harmony with nature and deeply respects visiting guests.
Travel Tips & Logistics
Best Time to Visit:
The best time to visit Sumba and Flores is during the dry season, between May and October. During this period, roads are safer, and the weather is ideal for outdoor activities. In Sumba, February or March is the time for the spectacular Pasola festival (a ritual horseback spear-fighting competition). In Flores, the Reba traditional ceremony in Ngada Regency usually takes place between December and February.
Transportation:
- To Sumba: You can fly to Tambolaka Airport (Southwest Sumba) or Waingapu Airport (East Sumba) from Bali or Kupang. Renting a car with a local driver is highly recommended due to the hilly terrain and remote village locations.
- To Flores: To reach the Ngada region (Bena), the best entry point is through Soa Airport in Bajawa or by flying to Labuan Bajo and then taking a land journey across Flores (Trans-Flores), which takes about 8-10 hours.
Etiquette and Customary Rules:
1. Dress Code: Wear modest clothing (covering shoulders and knees). In some villages, you may be asked to wear a local sarong as a sign of respect.
2. Guest Book & Donations: Almost every village provides a guest book. It is highly recommended to give a voluntary donation (usually IDR 20,000 - IDR 50,000) for village maintenance.
3. Betel Nut: Offering betel nut (sirih pinang) or cigarettes to village elders (Ratu/Jaga) is a traditional way to show goodwill, though today, monetary donations are more practical.
4. Photography Permits: Always ask for permission before photographing local residents or the interior of their homes.
Costs:
Entrance fees to these traditional villages generally range from IDR 20,000 to IDR 50,000 per person for domestic tourists, and slightly more for international tourists.
Cuisine & Local Experience
Exploring traditional villages is incomplete without tasting the local cuisine. In Sumba, you must try 'Rumpu Rampe,' a stir-fry of papaya flowers and cassava leaves that is bitter yet refreshing, and 'Manggulu,' a sweet snack made from bananas and peanuts wrapped in dried banana leaves. Manggulu was the food of Sumba warriors in the past because of its long shelf life.
In Flores, particularly in Bajawa, you will be greeted by the aroma of world-class Flores Arabica coffee. Bajawa coffee has a distinct chocolatey and nutty flavor profile. For a heavy meal, try 'Ute Lomak,' green vegetables cooked with grated coconut, or 'Se’i' (smoked meat), which has a very appetizing aroma. In villages like Bena, you might be offered 'Moke,' a traditional fermented drink from the palm tree that serves as a symbol of brotherhood.
Beyond cuisine, the most memorable local experience is interacting with the weavers. Sumba and Flores Ikat weaving is more than just fabric; every motif has a meaning. The horse motif symbolizes heroism, while the crocodile motif symbolizes strength. You can try your hand at weaving or at least observe the natural dyeing process using morinda roots (for red) and indigo leaves (for blue).
Conclusion
A visit to the megalithic villages of Sumba and Flores is a journey back in time that provides a new perspective on life. Here, progress is not measured by skyscrapers but by how steadfastly the community upholds the mandate of their ancestors. The giant stones and high roofs of NTT are silent witnesses to a civilization that deeply values the harmony between humans, nature, and the spiritual world. By visiting responsibly, we contribute to the preservation of one of the world's most unique cultural heritages. Prepare yourself to be mesmerized by the timeless megalithic wonders of the Indonesian archipelago.
FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)
Is it safe to travel alone to these villages?
It is very safe; locals are very friendly. However, due to remote locations, using a local guide is highly recommended to facilitate communication and understand the cultural context.
Are there accommodations inside the traditional villages?
Some villages like Bena or Tololela have started offering simple homestay concepts in residents' homes. This is the best way to experience local life deeply.
What should I bring?
Bring enough cash (ATMs are rare in rural areas), sunscreen, a hat, and a reusable water bottle to reduce plastic waste.