Introduction

East Kalimantan, a province renowned for its stunning natural beauty, from dense tropical rainforests to captivating coastlines, often takes center stage for adventurers seeking authenticity. However, beyond its majestic landscapes lie hidden cultural gems that are rarely touched: the remnants of ancient palaces. This province holds stories of past kings, once-flourishing civilizations, and architectural legacies that now stand as silent witnesses to history. For seekers of authentic experiences and knowledge-hungry explorers, venturing through the ancient palaces of East Kalimantan is an unforgettable journey, an invitation to unveil the mysteries held within the heart of Borneo. This article will take you deeper into this extraordinary cultural heritage, uncovering its rich history, highlighting its main attractions, and providing practical guidance to ensure your adventure runs smoothly. Prepare to be captivated by the grandeur of the past that still resonates today in the land of East Kalimantan.

History & Background

The history of palaces in East Kalimantan is a reflection of the political, social, and economic dynamics of the region over centuries. This area, once part of great kingdoms like Kutai and later the Kutai Kartanegara Sultanate, became a center of power that influenced the development of society and culture around it. The Kutai Kingdom, believed to have been established in the 4th century AD, is one of the oldest Hindu kingdoms in Indonesia, evidenced by the discovery of the Yupa inscriptions. Although not physical palaces in the modern sense, the existence of this kingdom marked the beginning of organized civilization in East Kalimantan.

The subsequent development saw the emergence of the Kutai Kartanegara Sultanate in the 13th century, which later moved its administrative center to various locations before finally settling in Tenggarong. This sultanate played a crucial role in maritime trade and relations with external powers, including the growing influence of Islam. The peak of the Kutai Kartanegara Sultanate's glory was during the reign of Sultan Aji Muhammad Idris or Sultan Aji Muhammad Muslihuddin, when the palace served as the center of administration, religion, and culture. The architecture of the palaces during that period reflected a blend of local, Hindu-Buddhist, and Islamic influences, creating a unique style.

However, with the changing times and the intervention of the Dutch colonial era, the sultanate's power began to wane. Many palaces underwent transformations, with some even being destroyed or abandoned. Nevertheless, architectural remnants and cultural heritage from the palace era can still be found, offering a glimpse into past glories. Exploring these ancient palace sites is not just about seeing old buildings; it's also about immersing oneself in the historical narrative of how these kingdoms interacted with their environment, indigenous communities, and external forces, shaping the unique identity of East Kalimantan we know today. Understanding this historical background is essential to appreciating the value and significance of every remaining relic.

Yupa Inscriptions: Evidence of the oldest Kutai Kingdom.

Kutai Kartanegara Sultanate: An important center of power in East Kalimantan.

Islamic Influence: Flourished alongside the sultanate era.

Colonial Policies: Influenced changes in power structures and the existence of palaces.

Main Attractions

East Kalimantan may not boast a string of grand palaces like those in Java, but the remnants of ancient palaces in this province offer a unique charm steeped in history and mystery. The main attractions lie in their distinctive architecture, the stories that accompany them, and the authentic atmosphere that still lingers. Here are some of the primary destinations you must visit:

1. Mulawarman Museum (Former Palace of the Kutai Kartanegara Sultanate)

Located in Tenggarong, the capital of Kutai Kartanegara Regency, the Mulawarman Museum is the most significant representation of the glory of the Kutai Kartanegara Sultanate. This majestic building was once the palace of the King of Kutai Kartanegara. Although the current building is a reconstruction of the palace that burned down in 1948, its architecture still retains the original style with modern touches. The museum's interior is filled with historical artifacts belonging to the sultanate, including thrones, jewelry, keris (traditional daggers), musical instruments, and other historical relics that provide deep insight into the lives of the royalty and the history of the sultanate.

Architectural Uniqueness: A blend of traditional Kutai style with European influences.
Exquisite Collections: Royal throne, crowns, jewelry, gamelan instruments.
Experience: Delve into the life of the sultanate, understand Kutai's history.
Location: Tenggarong, Kutai Kartanegara Regency.
Opening Hours (Approx.): 08:00 - 16:00 WITA (Monday-Sunday).
Entrance Fee (Approx.): IDR 5,000 - IDR 10,000.

2. Muara Kaman Archaeological Site

Moving to Kutai Kartanegara Regency, the Muara Kaman Archaeological Site is a crucial place to understand the historical roots of East Kalimantan, especially concerning the ancient Hindu Kutai Kingdom. This site is where seven Yupa inscriptions, written in Pallawa script and Sanskrit, were discovered. These inscriptions are irrefutable evidence of the existence of one of the oldest Hindu kingdoms in Indonesia around the 4th century AD. Although no palace buildings remain in complete physical form, the site offers a unique historical experience, where you can directly see the historical location where King Mulawarman and his priests were active. This area is often visited by academics and history researchers.

Historical Significance: Site of the Yupa Inscriptions discovery, evidence of the Kutai Kingdom.
Focus: Ancient Hindu history, inscriptions.
Experience: Feel the remnants of ancient civilization, learn about Pallawa script.
Location: Muara Kaman, Kutai Kartanegara Regency.
Access: Overland travel from Tenggarong or Samarinda.
Note: This site is primarily archaeological, not a palace structure.

3. Royal Tombs of Kutai in Ulu Darat

Still within the Kutai Kartanegara region, the Royal Tombs of Kutai in Ulu Darat offer a different perspective on the sultanate's heritage. This burial complex serves as the final resting place for several kings and royal family members of Kutai. The architecture of the tombs often shows a blend of traditional and Islamic influences, with intricately carved tombstones that hold high artistic value. Visiting here provides an opportunity to reflect on the history of the rulers and understand the spiritual and traditional aspects of the sultanate.

Object: Tombs of sultans and royal relatives.
Architecture: Blend of traditional and Islamic styles.
Ambiance: Solemn, respectful.
Location: Ulu Darat area, Kutai Kartanegara.
Tip: Dress modestly and maintain silence.

4. Paser Palace (Former Paser Sultanate)

In Paser Regency, there are traces of the Paser Sultanate, which also has a long history. Although not as grand or as famous as Kutai Kartanegara, the Paser Sultanate has its own cultural heritage. Several sites related to this sultanate, such as the tombs of its kings and other relics, are scattered across the Paser region, particularly around Tanah Grogot. Visiting these sites provides an overview of the diversity of sultanates in East Kalimantan and how each kingdom has its own unique stories and legacies.

History: Paser Sultanate, a kingdom distinct from Kutai.
Heritages: Royal tombs, historical sites.
Location: Around Tanah Grogot, Paser Regency.
Research: Requires further research to find detailed site information.

Exploring these attractions will open a window into the past of East Kalimantan, revealing stories of power, culture, and civilization that have shaped the province's identity.

Travel Tips & Logistics

Planning a trip to explore the ancient palace trails of East Kalimantan requires thorough preparation, especially since some sites may be in remote locations with varying accessibility. Here is a practical guide to assist you with travel logistics:

1. Best Time to Visit

Dry Season (June - September): Generally considered the best time due to less rainfall, facilitating land mobility and outdoor activities. The weather is more stable for exploring archaeological sites and palaces.
Avoid the Rainy Season (October - May): Heavy rains can cause flooding and difficult road conditions, especially in rural areas or on the way to less-managed sites.

2. Transportation

Flights: The main airports in East Kalimantan are Sultan Aji Muhammad Sulaiman Sepinggan International Airport in Balikpapan (BPN) and APT Pranoto Airport in Samarinda (SRM). From these two cities, you can continue your journey.
Inter-City/Regency Travel:
Private Car/Rental: The most flexible option for reaching various locations, especially if you want to visit multiple sites in a day. Renting a car with a driver is highly recommended, considering the sometimes challenging road conditions and lack of signage.
Public Transportation (Bus/Travel): Available between major cities like Samarinda, Balikpapan, and Tenggarong. However, to reach more remote sites, you may need to use additional local transportation.
Boat/Speedboat: Necessary to reach some locations situated along rivers or small islands, particularly in areas like Muara Kaman.
Local Transportation: Within cities or around the sites, you can use ojek (motorcycle taxis) or becak (cycle rickshaws in some areas). Bargaining the price before riding is highly advised.

3. Accommodation

Major Cities (Samarinda, Balikpapan, Tenggarong): There is a wide range of hotels available, from budget guesthouses to star-rated hotels, all comfortable and easily accessible.
Near the Sites (Tenggarong): In Tenggarong, you will find adequate hotels and lodging to support visits to the Mulawarman Museum and its surroundings.
Remote Areas: For visits to sites further from city centers, accommodation may be limited. Consider staying in local inns or homestays if possible, which can be an experience in itself.

4. Essential Preparations

Clothing: Bring comfortable, lightweight, and breathable clothing as the tropical weather tends to be hot and humid. Include modest attire for visiting religious sites or tombs. A light jacket or umbrella is also useful for anticipating rain.
Gear:
Comfortable Shoes: For walking in site areas that may be uneven or muddy.
Hat/Umbrella: For protection from the sun.
Sunscreen & Mosquito Repellent: Essential in tropical regions.
Camera: Capture your historical moments.
Personal Medications: Bring your required supply of medications.
Cash: Many small stalls or local transport do not accept non-cash payments. Prepare small denominations.
Health: Consult with your doctor regarding recommended vaccinations for tropical areas. Drink bottled water with guaranteed cleanliness.
Permissions & Etiquette: When visiting historical sites or tombs, always respect local customs. Ask for permission before taking photos, especially if involving people or sacred objects. Modest dress is a must.

5. Budget (Approximate)

Daily Cost (Excluding Airfare): IDR 300,000 - IDR 700,000 per person, depending on travel style (staying in standard hotels, eating at local eateries, using public transport/renting a car with a driver).
Accommodation Costs: IDR 150,000 - IDR 500,000 per night for standard hotels.
Car Rental: Starting from IDR 400,000 - IDR 700,000 per day (including driver).
Entrance Fees: Generally very affordable, ranging from IDR 5,000 - IDR 20,000.

FAQ:

Do I need a guide? For sites like the Mulawarman Museum, local guides are available and recommended for in-depth information. For archaeological sites, basic historical understanding is sufficient, but a guide knowledgeable in history would be very helpful.
What about phone signal and internet? In big cities, the signal is quite good. However, in more remote areas or around archaeological sites, the signal can be weak or even non-existent.
Is it safe to travel alone? East Kalimantan is generally safe, but it's always advisable to be vigilant and cautious, especially in unfamiliar places. Traveling with friends or in small groups is more recommended.

With good planning, exploring the ancient palace trails of East Kalimantan will be a rich, educational, and adventurous experience.

Cuisine & Local Experience

A trip to East Kalimantan is incomplete without delving into its culinary richness and local experiences. After tracing the historical footsteps of kings and sultans, it's time to tantalize your taste buds and feel the pulse of local life. The cuisine in East Kalimantan is a unique blend of Dayak, Malay, and other ethnic influences, resulting in distinctive and appetizing flavors.

1. Distinctive Flavors of East Kalimantan

Ikan Bakar (Grilled Fish): Given East Kalimantan's long coastline and numerous rivers, grilled fish dishes are a prime delicacy. Fresh fish is grilled with selected spices and served with sambal terasi (shrimp paste chili sauce) or sambal kecap (sweet soy sauce chili). Enjoy the tender texture of the fish and its tempting smoky aroma.
Ayam Cincane: This signature Kutai dish is chicken cooked in a rich, yellow coconut milk-based sauce filled with spices. Its flavor is savory, slightly sweet, and spicy, often served with warm rice. The name "Cincane" is said to originate from the way it's finely chopped during preparation.
Gence Ruan: This is a preparation of snakehead fish that is mashed, seasoned, wrapped in banana leaves, and then grilled. Its texture is soft and the taste is savory, making it a favorite for many.
Sayur Kelakai (Kelakai Vegetable Soup): Kelakai is a wild plant that thrives in swamps. It is cooked into clear soup or stir-fried, offering a unique taste and believed to have health benefits.
Sambal (Chili Paste): Sambal is a mandatory accompaniment to every dish. From the fiery sambal terasi to the sweet and savory sambal kecap, each sambal has its own characteristics.

2. Unforgettable Local Experiences

Traditional Markets: Visit traditional markets like Pasar Pagi in Samarinda or markets in Tenggarong. Here, you can see a variety of local produce, seafood, spices, and local snacks. Interacting with the vendors is the best way to feel the daily pulse of life.
Traditional Ceremonies (If Fortunate): If your travel schedule coincides with Dayak traditional ceremonies or sultanate celebrations, this is a golden opportunity to witness the rich culture of East Kalimantan firsthand. Ensure you obtain the correct information and permissions before attending.
River Tourism: The Mahakam River is the lifeline of East Kalimantan. Take a boat or speedboat cruise along the river, observe the activities of the riverside communities, and if you're lucky, you might spot the pesut (freshwater dolphins) in their natural habitat. This experience offers a unique perspective on how the people of East Kalimantan live in harmony with nature.
Interaction with Local Communities: The people of East Kalimantan are known for their friendliness and openness. Don't hesitate to chat, ask questions, and learn about their culture and traditions. A warm smile and greeting will open the doors to friendship.
Trying Handicrafts: East Kalimantan is also known for its handicrafts, such as Ulap Doyo woven fabrics from the Dayak Benuaq tribe. Buying directly from artisans or visiting handicraft centers can be a valuable experience while also supporting the local economy.

Culinary Tips:

Don't Hesitate to Try: Overcome hesitation and try various local dishes, even those that seem unfamiliar to you.
Ask for Recommendations: Ask locals or hotel staff for their favorite dining spots.
Pay Attention to Cleanliness: Choose eateries that appear clean and are frequented by locals.
Local Drinks: Also taste local drinks like ginger tea or local coffee.

Enjoying the cuisine and interacting with the local community will complete your adventure in uncovering the mysteries of ancient palaces, providing a more holistic understanding of East Kalimantan's cultural heritage.

Conclusion

Exploring the ancient palace trails of East Kalimantan is a journey that transcends a typical tourist visit. It is an invitation to delve into the depths of history, connect with the heritage of once-flourishing civilizations, and feel the pulse of a culture that has endured. From the Yupa inscriptions that bear witness to the archipelago's oldest kingdom, to the grandeur of the Mulawarman Museum holding the stories of sultans, each site offers a unique narrative waiting to be revealed. East Kalimantan, with its extraordinary natural wealth, also harbors invaluable historical treasures. This experience not only enriches knowledge but also fosters a greater appreciation for Indonesia's cultural diversity. For true adventurers, cultural explorers, and anyone seeking an authentic connection with the past, the ancient palace trails of Borneo promise an unforgettable expedition.

---

Ancient Palaces: Unveiling the Mysteries of East Kalimantan