Pekanbaru Travel Guide: The Heart of Riau
Introduction
Welcome to Pekanbaru, a city often dubbed the "City of Blessing" (Kota Bertuah). As the capital of Riau Province, Pekanbaru is more than just an administrative center or a gateway to abundant oil fields; it is a metropolis transforming into a modern Malay cultural hub in Indonesia. Situated on the banks of the Siak River, this city offers a captivating blend of urban infrastructure development and deeply preserved traditional heritage by its people.
For many travelers, Pekanbaru might not be as popular as Bali or Yogyakarta, but that's precisely where its charm lies. This city offers an authentic experience, far from tourist traps, where you can feel the dynamic economic pulse of Sumatra and the warmth of Malay hospitality. Pekanbaru is a vital hub connecting trade between Indonesia, Malaysia, and Singapore, making it one of the most cosmopolitan cities on the island of Sumatra.
In this guide, we will explore every corner of the city, from the grandeur of its religious architecture and the legendary historical traces of the Siak Sultanate to culinary adventures that will tantalize your taste buds with rich spices. Pekanbaru is a destination for those who wish to understand how tradition and modernity can walk hand-in-hand in the fertile land of Sumatra. Let's begin our journey through the heart of Riau.
History & Background
The name "Pekanbaru" originates from the words "Pekan" meaning market and "Baru" meaning new. Literally, the city began as a new market established by the Sultan of Siak Sri Indrapura, Sultan Abdul Jalil Alamuddin Syah, in the 18th century. Previously, the area was known as Senapelan, a settlement on the banks of the Siak River that served as a strategic point for trading forest and river commodities.
Pekanbaru's history is inseparable from the role of the Siak River, once the deepest river in Indonesia. This river was the lifeline of transportation, connecting the interior of Sumatra with the Strait of Malacca. During the Dutch colonial era, this strategic position was further strengthened. However, a massive transformation occurred in the early 20th century when "black gold"—petroleum—was discovered in the surrounding areas. This discovery changed Pekanbaru from a quiet river port city into a national energy industry center.
During World War II, Pekanbaru was the site of an ambitious Japanese military project known as the "Pekanbaru Death Railway." This railway was built to connect the west coast of Sumatra with the east coast for transporting coal and troops. Thousands of prisoners of war (POWs) and romusha (forced laborers) lost their lives during the construction of this line, leaving a deep historical scar that is an inseparable part of the city's identity.
After independence, specifically in 1959, Pekanbaru officially became the capital of Riau Province, replacing Tanjung Pinang. Since then, the city has grown rapidly. The Malay ethnic group, as the indigenous population, lives alongside migrants from Minangkabau, Java, Batak, and Chinese communities, creating a rich cultural mosaic. Although it has now become a modern city with tall buildings and luxury shopping centers, Pekanbaru still holds firmly to its motto "Bertuah," an acronym for Bersih (Clean), Tertib (Orderly), Usaha Bersama (Joint Effort), Aman (Safe), and Harmonis (Harmonious).
Main Attractions
Pekanbaru offers a variety of tourist attractions encompassing religious, historical, cultural, and family entertainment aspects. Here is a list of places you must visit:
1. Masjid Agung An-Nur
Often referred to as the "Taj Mahal of Riau," Masjid Agung An-Nur is Pekanbaru's most prominent icon. Its architecture is a blend of Malay, Arab, Turkish, and Indian styles. With its large dome and four towering minarets, the mosque appears magnificent, especially at night when the decorative lights are illuminated. The long pond in front of the mosque further enhances its resemblance to the Taj Mahal. This mosque is not only a place of worship but also a center for social and educational activities for the people of Riau.
2. Soeman HS Library
Don't imagine an old, dusty library. The Soeman HS Library is one of the best and most magnificent libraries in Indonesia. Its architecture is very unique, resembling an open rehal (a Quran stand). The six-story building features modern facilities, including a comprehensive collection of books on Malay culture. Being here offers a panoramic view of the city through its large glass walls.
3. Siak Sri Indrapura Palace (Day Trip)
Although located about a two-hour drive from the center of Pekanbaru, the Siak Palace is a must-visit destination. This palace, nicknamed "The Sun of the East," is a legacy of the Siak Sultanate, one of the largest Malay sultanates in Sumatra. Inside, you can see a well-preserved collection of royal artifacts, including the ancient gramophone "Komet," of which only two exist in the world (the other is in Germany).
4. Pasar Bawah (Lower Market)
If you want to shop for souvenirs, Pasar Bawah is the place. Located near the old port on the banks of the Siak River, this is Pekanbaru's oldest market. Here, you can find various imported goods from abroad, such as ceramics, household items, and snacks from Malaysia and Singapore. Additionally, beautiful Riau batik fabrics and songket weaving are also widely available.
5. Asia Heritage
For a more modern family outing, Asia Heritage offers an amusement park concept with replicas of famous icons from various Asian countries, such as Japan, Korea, China, and of course, Indonesia. This place is very popular among photography enthusiasts due to its numerous Instagrammable spots. You can even rent traditional costumes like Kimono or Hanbok to take photos in areas designed to resemble traditional villages of their respective countries.
6. Lembah Sari Artificial Lake
For those seeking natural tranquility, Lembah Sari Artificial Lake, located on the outskirts of the city, offers refreshing green scenery. Originally built as a dam for irrigation, this place has now transformed into a family recreation area where visitors can rent wooden boats to cruise around the lake or simply have a picnic under the shady trees.
Travel Tips & Logistics
Planning a trip to Pekanbaru requires an understanding of local logistics to ensure a comfortable experience. Here is a practical guide for you:
Best Time to Visit
Pekanbaru has a tropical climate that tends to be hot and humid year-round. Daytime temperatures can reach 32-35 degrees Celsius. The best time to visit is between June and September when rainfall is relatively low. However, be aware that during prolonged dry seasons, haze from land fires in surrounding areas can sometimes occur, so be sure to check the weather news before you depart.
Transportation to Pekanbaru
The city is served by Sultan Syarif Kasim II International Airport. This airport connects Pekanbaru with major cities in Indonesia such as Jakarta, Medan, and Batam, as well as direct international flights from Kuala Lumpur and Singapore. For those arriving by land, inter-city buses (AKAP) are available from various cities in Sumatra via Jalan Lintas Sumatra.
Local Transportation
To get around the city, the most practical option is to use ride-hailing services like Grab or Gojek, which are widely available and very affordable. Pekanbaru also has a bus rapid transit system called Trans Metro Pekanbaru, which serves major routes with very cheap ticket prices. If you plan to visit the Siak Palace, it is highly recommended to rent a private car as it will offer more flexibility compared to using public transportation.
Accommodation
Pekanbaru offers a wide variety of accommodation options. For business travelers and those seeking luxury, star-rated hotels along Jalan Jenderal Sudirman are the best choice due to their proximity to the airport and government centers. For more economical options, the areas around Jalan Tuanku Tambusai (Jalan Nangka) offer many budget-friendly boutique hotels and guesthouses with easy access to shopping centers.
Etiquette and Culture
The people of Pekanbaru highly value Malay politeness, which is deeply infused with Islamic nuances. Dress modestly, especially when visiting places of worship or government offices. When interacting with locals, use your right hand to give or receive things, and don't hesitate to smile, as friendliness is key to gaining a deeper local experience.
Culinary & Local Experiences
A trip to Pekanbaru would be incomplete without tasting its culinary richness. The food here is a harmonious blend of Malay flavors, rich in coconut milk and spices, with a strong influence from spicy Minangkabau cuisine.
1. Gulai Ikan Patin
This is a must-try dish for every visitor. Ikan patin is a river fish with very tender flesh and savory fat. Cooked in a sour and spicy yellow gulai broth (often called Pindang Patin), this dish offers a fresh and appetizing taste sensation. One of the best places to enjoy it is at the Malay specialty restaurants scattered along the banks of the Siak River.
2. Durian Processed Foods
Pekanbaru is a paradise for durian lovers. One of the most iconic preparations is Lempuk Durian, a type of dodol made from real durian flesh and palm sugar. Additionally, you must try Durian Pancakes or durian ice cream, widely sold along Jalan Jenderal Sudirman. If you visit during durian season, you can find fresh durian vendors lining the roadside, ready to be enjoyed on the spot.
3. Kopi Kim Teng
For coffee lovers, stopping by Kedai Kopi Kim Teng is a must. This is a legendary coffee shop that has been operating since the colonial era. Its signature menu is black coffee served with incredibly soft homemade srikaya toast. The lively atmosphere of the shop, filled with conversations from locals, provides a real glimpse into Pekanbaru's social culture.
4. Bolu Kemojo
This sweet treat is a traditional Riau cake shaped like a frangipani flower. This cake has a dense, rich texture and a strong pandan aroma. Bolu Kemojo is usually the top choice for tourists as a souvenir due to its relatively long shelf life.
5. Nasi Lemak Pekanbaru
Although nasi lemak is also popular in Malaysia, the Pekanbaru version has its own uniqueness. It is usually served with anchovy and peanut side dishes, spicy balado eggs, and a fiery red chili sauce. Having nasi lemak for breakfast at a roadside stall is the best way to start your day like a local.
Local Experience: Cruising the Siak River at Night
For a different experience, try strolling around the Waterfront City area on the banks of the Siak River at sunset. You can see the magnificent Siak IV Bridge with its colorful lights. Here, locals usually gather to enjoy street food like grilled corn or sate padang while enjoying the night breeze. This is a moment where you can feel the relaxed yet vibrant soul of Pekanbaru city.
Conclusion
Pekanbaru is a city that offers more than just industrial landscapes. Behind its modern buildings and bustling trade, lies a deep Malay historical richness, stunning architectural grandeur, and unforgettable culinary adventures. From the tranquility of Masjid Agung An-Nur's courtyard to the shopping dynamics of Pasar Bawah, every moment in this city offers a new perspective on Indonesia's cultural wealth.
Whether you are a history buff, a culinary hunter, or simply a traveler seeking a new destination in Sumatra, Pekanbaru will welcome you with open arms and sincere hospitality. Come to this Heart of Riau, and let its "Bertuah" charm leave a sweet mark on your travel memories. Pekanbaru is not just a stopover, but a destination worth exploring in depth. Happy exploring!