Introduction

Welcome to Pura Besakih, the spiritual heart of the Island of the Gods! Majestically situated on the slopes of the imposing Mount Agung, Pura Besakih is more than just a temple; it is the largest and most sacred temple complex in Bali. Revered as the "Mother Temple of Bali," this site is the epicenter of all Hindu religious activities on the island, a place that radiates a profound aura of spirituality and breathtaking Balinese traditional architectural beauty. Visiting Pura Besakih is an unforgettable experience, a journey to understand the essence of Balinese culture and beliefs.

With over 23 distinct temples nestled together, Pura Besakih offers a panoramic view of Balinese temple architecture, from its grand candi bentar gateways to intricately carved pelinggih (shrines). The complex unfolds across seven ascending terraces, creating a dramatic and enchanting vista, especially when shrouded in morning mist or bathed in the twilight sun. Every corner of Pura Besakih tells a story of history, mythology, and traditions passed down through generations. For travelers seeking an authentic and profound cultural experience, Pura Besakih is an absolute must-visit destination. Prepare to be captivated by its unparalleled spiritual grandeur and architectural splendor.

History & Background

The history of Pura Besakih is intricately woven with the mythology and development of Hinduism in Bali. Its origins are believed to date back to prehistoric times, with early evidence suggesting megalithic worship sites that evolved over time with the introduction of Hindu-Buddhist influences from India. The most popular legend attributes the founding of Pura Besakih to a holy sage named Hyang Empu Kuturan in the 8th century AD. He is said to have had a vision to unite the various Hindu sects in Bali under one main temple complex.

However, the development of Pura Besakih as we know it today was significantly influenced by the Warmadewa Dynasty between the 10th and 12th centuries AD. It was during this period that Pura Besakih began to be structured and expanded into a more organized complex. The main temple, Pura Penataran Agung, became the focal point of the complex, surrounded by other temples dedicated to the Trimurti gods: Lord Brahma (represented by Pura Kiduling Kreteg), Lord Vishnu (represented by Pura Kiduling Kreteg), and Lord Shiva (represented by Pura Penataran Agung).

Besakih's role was further solidified during the Gelgel Kingdom era (14th to 17th centuries AD), considered the golden age of Hinduism in Bali. During this period, Pura Besakih served as the center of the kingdom's political and spiritual power. Grand ceremonies involving the entire kingdom were held here, strengthening its position as the "Mother Temple."

The most significant natural event that impacted Pura Besakih was the eruption of Mount Agung in 1963. This cataclysmic event was believed to be the wrath of Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa (God) due to the postponement of the Eka Dasa Rudra ceremony, the grandest universe-cleansing ritual. Although the eruption caused considerable damage to parts of the complex, a miracle occurred when the lava flow stopped just before the main gate of Pura Besakih, which was interpreted as divine intervention to protect the sacred site. Following this, extensive renovations were undertaken to restore its beauty and sanctity.

Since ancient times, Pura Besakih has held a central role in the Balinese Hindu belief system. The complex is not merely a place of worship but also a reflection of the cosmic order according to the Balinese Hindu worldview, known as Tri Hita Karana (harmony between God, humans, and environment). Various important rituals and ceremonies, such as the Odalan (temple anniversary) and Eka Dasa Rudra (a major universe-cleansing ceremony held only once every 100 years), are always centered at Pura Besakih, reaffirming its irreplaceable status as the spiritual heart of Bali.

Main Attractions

Pura Besakih is a vast spiritual landscape, comprising numerous interconnected temples, each with its own significance. Exploring this complex is an adventure in architecture and profound spirituality. Here are the main attractions you must witness:

Pura Penataran Agung: This is the largest and most important temple in the Besakih complex, dedicated to Lord Shiva, the Destroyer and Transformer. It serves as the central hub of the entire complex and is the primary location for major ceremonies. Its architecture is incredibly impressive, featuring towering candi bentar (split gateways) and various intricately carved pelinggih (shrines). You will find numerous statues of deities and symbolic religious motifs laden with meaning.

Pura Kiduling Kreteg: This temple is dedicated to Lord Brahma, the Creator. Located south of Pura Penataran Agung, it also showcases beautiful Balinese architecture with carvings that narrate mythological stories. This temple often hosts important rituals related to creation and life.

Pura Batu Madeg: Dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the Preserver. Situated west of Pura Penataran Agung, Pura Batu Madeg offers a more serene and sacred atmosphere. Its architecture highlights the beauty of natural stones used in its construction, reflecting harmony with nature.

Pura Pangubengan: One of the oldest temples in the complex, Pura Pangubengan is believed to be the starting point of Pura Besakih's construction. This temple is often associated with strong spiritual energy and is frequently a place for pilgrims to meditate.

Pura Basukih: This temple is dedicated to Sang Naga Basuki (the Great Serpent), a symbol of fertility and cosmic balance in Balinese Hindu mythology. The temple features an impressive serpent statue, symbolizing the forces of nature that must be respected and protected.

Green Terraces: In addition to the temple structures, Pura Besakih is surrounded by lush green rice terraces. These vistas are not only visually stunning but also embody the philosophy of Tri Hita Karana, emphasizing balance between humans and nature. Walking amongst the temples while enjoying the verdant natural scenery provides a deeply calming experience.

Typical Balinese Architecture: The entire Pura Besakih complex is a masterpiece of Balinese architecture. Pay attention to the intricate carvings on every building, the unique split gateways, and the use of red bricks and natural stone. Each architectural element carries deep symbolic meaning, reflecting the Balinese Hindu cosmology.

Mount Agung View: Pura Besakih's location on the slopes of Mount Agung provides a spectacular backdrop. Mount Agung itself is considered a sacred mountain by the Balinese people, and its spiritual presence enhances the grandeur of Pura Besakih. On a clear day, the view from the temple complex is truly breathtaking.

Religious Ceremonies: If you are fortunate, you might witness one of the religious ceremonies taking place at Pura Besakih. These ceremonies, with their beautiful traditional attire, melodious gamelan music, and meaningful rituals, offer an authentic glimpse into the spiritual life of the Balinese people.

Pura Dalem Puri: One of the smaller yet significant temples, Pura Dalem Puri often hosts rituals related to ancestors and the afterlife.

Each temple within Pura Besakih has its own role and function in the Balinese Hindu belief system. Exploring this complex thoroughly will take several hours, but every step will offer new insights into Bali's rich culture and spirituality.

Practical Information:

Opening Hours: Pura Besakih is generally open to visitors daily, from morning until late afternoon. However, operational hours may vary depending on ongoing ceremonies.
Dress Code: Visitors are required to wear modest clothing. Men and women must wear a sarong (usually available for rent on-site) and a waist sash (saput). Attire covering shoulders and knees is highly recommended.
Guides: It is highly advisable to hire a local guide to gain a deeper understanding of the history, architecture, and spiritual significance of each temple. Official guides usually wear identification badges.
Donations: While there is no fixed entrance fee, voluntary donations are greatly appreciated for the upkeep of the temple complex.

Travel Tips & Logistics

Planning a visit to Pura Besakih requires a bit of preparation to ensure your experience is smooth and meaningful. As the largest and most sacred temple complex in Bali, there are several important points to consider:

Best Time to Visit: Pura Besakih can be visited year-round, but the best times are in the morning or late afternoon. Mornings offer cooler air and beautiful light for photography, while afternoons provide a quieter atmosphere before sunset. Avoid visiting during the hottest hours of the day, especially during the dry season. If you wish to witness major ceremonies, plan your visit according to the Balinese ceremony calendar (which changes annually).

Getting to Pura Besakih: Pura Besakih is located in Karangasem Regency, approximately a 2-3 hour drive from Denpasar or Kuta, and about 1.5-2 hours from Ubud. You have several transportation options:
Hire a Car with a Driver: This is the most comfortable option. You can hire a car with a driver for the day who can take you to Pura Besakih and other surrounding sites. Local drivers usually have knowledge of the best routes and can provide basic information.
Rent a Motorbike: For more independent travelers accustomed to riding in Bali, renting a motorbike can be a more economical choice. However, ensure you have good riding experience as the roads to Besakih are quite winding and uphill.
Taxis or Online Transportation Services: Conventional taxis or services like Grab/Gojek might be available from major towns, but be sure to negotiate the price beforehand or use the meter if possible. Note that online service coverage may be limited in more remote areas.
Organized Tours: Many travel agents in Bali offer tour packages to Pura Besakih, which often include transportation, entrance fees, and sometimes a guide. This is a great option if you prefer a hassle-free experience.

Appropriate Attire: Visiting temples requires you to wear modest and respectful clothing. Always wear a sarong and waist sash. Attire covering knees and shoulders is mandatory. Avoid overly revealing clothing like shorts, mini-skirts, or tank tops. Traditional Balinese attire is highly recommended if you have it.

Hiring a Local Guide: It is highly recommended to hire a local guide at the complex entrance. Registered guides usually wear identification badges and can offer in-depth insights into the history, architecture, mythology, and spiritual significance of each temple. This will greatly enrich your experience compared to wandering alone. Be sure to negotiate the price before starting the tour.

Respect Customs and Culture: Pura Besakih is an active religious site. Always maintain decorum, avoid speaking too loudly, and do not touch artifacts or statues without permission. If a ceremony is in progress, give them space and do not disrupt the ritual. Photography is generally permitted in many areas, but always observe signs prohibiting photography, especially inside sacred buildings.

Health and Safety: Carry enough drinking water, especially if visiting during midday. Use sunscreen and a hat to protect yourself from the sun. The paths within the Besakih complex can be steep and uneven, so wear comfortable footwear. Be mindful of your belongings and avoid carrying excessive valuables.

Donations and Other Fees: There is no official entrance fee for Pura Besakih, but visitors are expected to make a voluntary donation for the upkeep of the complex. Guides and sarong/sash rentals typically have separate fees that need to be negotiated.

Facilities: Around the Pura Besakih complex, you will find several food stalls, restrooms, and souvenir shops. Facilities are quite basic, so be prepared for that.

Accommodation: If you wish to spend more time exploring the areas around Mount Agung, there are accommodation options in nearby villages, ranging from simple guesthouses to luxurious villas.

By following these tips, your visit to Pura Besakih will be a safe, comfortable, and meaningful experience, allowing you to truly appreciate the spiritual grandeur and cultural beauty of Bali.

Cuisine & Local Experience

A visit to Pura Besakih is not just about spirituality and history, but also about experiencing the local life in its surroundings. The Mount Agung slopes offer authentic culinary experiences and opportunities to interact with the local community.

Local Cuisine on the Slopes of Mount Agung:

After exploring the majesty of Pura Besakih, your stomach will surely begin to rumble. Around the temple complex, you will find many simple food stalls serving delicious Balinese local dishes. Don't miss the opportunity to try:

Nasi Ayam or Nasi Babi Guling: Although not as popular as in prime tourist areas, you can still find authentic Nasi Ayam (roast or shredded chicken) and Nasi Babi Guling (whole roasted pig) cooked with Balinese spices. The taste is authentic and the prices are affordable.
Lawar: A Balinese specialty made from a mixture of chopped vegetables (usually young jackfruit or long beans), grated coconut, minced meat (chicken, pork, or duck), and spices. Lawar is served with warm white rice.
Sate Lilit: A unique Balinese satay made from minced meat (fish, chicken, or pork) wrapped around lemongrass stalks or bamboo, then grilled. The aroma of lemongrass imparts a distinctive, mouth-watering flavor.
Sayur Urab: Similar to lawar but without meat, sayur urab is a mix of boiled vegetables (like long beans, bean sprouts, spinach) tossed with seasoned grated coconut and served with rice.
Hot Beverages: The air on the mountain slopes can be quite cool, especially in the morning and evening. Enjoy a hot cup of Balinese coffee or herbal tea to warm yourself up. Also, try loloh cemcem, a traditional Balinese drink made from cemcem leaves, which has a fresh, sour taste.

Interesting Local Experiences:

Beyond the culinary delights, interacting with the local community around Pura Besakih will provide deeper insights into their daily lives:

Interact with Vendors: Along the road leading to the temple, you'll find many vendors selling various goods, from handicrafts and endek fabrics to religious ceremony paraphernalia. Interacting with them, bargaining politely, and buying some souvenirs are good ways to support the local economy.
Observe Daily Life: Take a moment to observe the activities of the local people. You might see farmers working in the rice paddies, children playing, or women preparing offerings. This is an opportunity to see a more authentic Bali, far from the tourist crowds.
Witness Craftsmanship: In some villages around Besakih, you might have the chance to see the process of making Balinese handicrafts, such as wood carvings or weaving. If you are interested, you can try buying directly from the artisans.
Learn Simple Balinese Phrases: Learning a few basic phrases in Balinese, such as "Om Swastiastu" (greetings), "Suksma" (thank you), or "Punapi gatra" (how are you?), will be greatly appreciated by the locals and can open doors to warmer interactions.

Tips for Cuisine and Local Experience:

Choose Busy Stalls: Busy stalls usually indicate fresh and delicious food. It's also an indication that the food is popular among locals.
Ask for Recommendations: Don't hesitate to ask your guide or locals for recommendations on specialty dishes or eateries.
Be Prepared for Simplicity: Food stalls around Besakih are generally very simple. Enjoy this authentic experience without excessive expectations regarding facilities.
Bring Cash: Most local food stalls and vendors only accept cash payments.

By opening yourself up to local cuisine and interacting with the community, your visit to Pura Besakih will become a richer, deeper, and more memorable experience, leaving you with fond memories of Bali's warm culture.

Conclusion

Pura Besakih stands as the spiritual crown jewel of Bali. This largest and most sacred temple complex offers more than just architectural beauty; it is a window into the soul of Balinese culture and beliefs. From its rich history intertwined with ancient mythology to its magnificent architecture and profound spiritual atmosphere, Besakih emanates an unparalleled aura of grandeur.

Visiting Pura Besakih is a redemptive journey, an opportunity to contemplate the meaning of Tri Hita Karana and the harmony of the universe. With thorough preparation and an open heart, you will find an unforgettable experience. From the stunning views of Mount Agung to the interactions with the friendly local people, every aspect of your visit will enrich your understanding of the Island of the Gods.

Therefore, if you are seeking an authentic, profound, and spiritual experience in Bali, Pura Besakih should be at the top of your itinerary. Let the majesty of this temple touch your soul and leave you with an everlasting sense of awe.

Pura Besakih Bali: Exploring the Largest & Most Sacred Temple Complex