Introduction

Welcome to Pura Besakih, the spiritual heart of the Island of the Gods and the largest and most sacred temple complex in Bali. Majestically situated on the slopes of the towering Mount Agung, this temple is not merely a holy edifice but a manifestation of Balinese architectural grandeur, rich culture, and profound spirituality passed down through generations. Known as the "Mother of All Temples" (Ibu Segala Pura), Pura Besakih is the focal point of all Hindu religious activities in Bali, a place where deities are believed to reside and where crucial rituals are performed. Its breathtaking presence, set against the mysterious backdrop of Mount Agung, creates a solemn and unforgettable atmosphere for every visitor.

Pura Besakih is not a single structure but an expansive complex comprising 23 main temples and hundreds of smaller shrines clustered on the mountainside. The architecture of each temple reflects the distinctive Balinese style, with robust candi bentar gateways, intricate and mesmerizing carvings, and elegant tiered courtyards. The temple plays a central role in the lives of the Balinese people, serving as a sacred site for important ceremonies like Eka Dasa Rudra, one of the grandest rituals held every hundred years to balance the universe. Visiting Pura Besakih is a deep journey into the soul of Bali, an experience that blends natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and a profound spiritual dimension. Prepare to be enthralled by the majesty and sacredness of this "Mother of All Temples."

History & Background

The history of Pura Besakih is deeply intertwined with myths and legends that have shaped Bali's spiritual identity. It is said that Pura Besakih was founded in the 8th century by a holy sage named Rsi Markandeya, who is believed to have received divine inspiration to build a place of worship on the slopes of Mount Agung. Another legend suggests that the temple was built at the spot where Naga Basuki, the sacred serpent from Hindu mythology, resides. The presence of Mount Agung as the temple's backdrop is not without significance; the mountain is considered the center of the world and the abode of the gods.

Over time, Pura Besakih was continuously developed and expanded by various Balinese royal dynasties. In the 15th century, Majapahit, a great empire from Java, had a significant influence on the development of Pura Besakih and the spread of Hinduism in Bali. The temple subsequently became an important administrative and religious center, where Balinese kings often performed crucial rituals and ceremonies. The Besakih complex as we see it today is the result of centuries of construction and renovation, reflecting the evolution of Balinese Hindu architecture and religious practices.

One of the most dramatic events in Pura Besakih's history occurred in 1963 when Mount Agung erupted violently. The eruption caused widespread destruction across Bali, yet miraculously, Pura Besakih escaped total devastation, though some parts sustained minor damage. This event is considered by many Hindus to be a testament to the sacredness and divine protection bestowed upon Pura Besakih, reinforcing its status as the "Mother of All Temples." Since then, the temple has become not only a religious center but also a symbol of resilience and hope for the Balinese people.

Pura Besakih possesses a hierarchical structure that reflects Hindu cosmology. The main temple, Pura Penataran Agung Besakih, is situated at the center and serves as the heart of the entire Besakih complex. Surrounding it are other temples dedicated to the Trimurti (Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva) and other deities. Each temple has a specific role and function in religious ceremonies. The complex also hosts the Eka Dasa Rudra ceremony, a vital ritual for cleansing and balancing the universe, which is held only once every 100 years. The last ritual took place in 1963, with the next one scheduled for 2063. The existence of Pura Besakih as Bali's spiritual and cultural hub makes it an invaluable heritage site.

Main Attractions

The allure of Pura Besakih lies not only in its monumental scale but also in the spiritual and architectural richness it offers. As Bali's largest complex, Besakih comprises 23 main temples and hundreds of smaller sacred buildings, making it a living city of gods. Here are the main attractions that you must explore:

Pura Penataran Agung Besakih: This is the principal temple and the center of the entire Besakih complex. It is dedicated to Lord Shiva, the god of destruction and preservation in the Hindu Trimurti. The architecture of Pura Penataran Agung is magnificent, featuring a grand candi bentar gateway at the entrance, surrounded by detailed carvings depicting epic tales. Inside, you'll find vast tiered courtyards, towering meru towers (temple spires), and various sacred buildings used for main rituals. The atmosphere here is deeply solemn, especially during ceremonies.

Pura Kiduling Kreteg: Located south of Pura Penataran Agung, this temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu, the preserver of the universe. It boasts a distinctive architectural style and often plays a significant role in specific ceremonies.

Pura Batu Madeg: This temple is dedicated to Lord Brahma, the creator god. It offers another perspective on the layout and spiritual significance of the Besakih complex.

Pura Pangubengan: One of the oldest temples in the complex, Pura Pangubengan exudes a serene and sacred ambiance. It is linked to the early history of Besakih's establishment and often serves as a meditation spot for pilgrims.

Pura Basukian: This temple holds profound historical significance as it is believed to be the very first site where Pura Besakih was established by Rsi Markandeya. It features ancient, intriguing carvings and is often the starting point for visitors seeking to understand the complex's history.

Pura Gelap: Situated at a lower elevation than the main complex, Pura Gelap offers beautiful views. It is dedicated to Lord Indra and often plays a key role in rituals related to weather and fertility.

Pura Hyang Api: A temple dedicated to Lord Agni (fire), symbolizing purification and transformation. This temple holds strong symbolic value in the cycle of life and death.

Pura Manik Galih: This temple is often associated with aspects of healing and fertility, making it an important pilgrimage site for many devotees.

Pura Meru Tiga: This temple complex showcases three meru towers, symbolizing the Trimurti, providing a powerful visual representation of Hindu religious concepts.

Mount Agung View: One of the most spectacular attractions of Pura Besakih is its dramatic backdrop: the majestic Mount Agung. The temple is built on its slopes, and from various points within the complex, you can enjoy breathtaking views of the mountain, especially on clear days. Mount Agung itself is revered as the abode of the gods and holds immense spiritual significance for the Balinese people.

Distinctive Balinese Architecture: Every structure in Pura Besakih is a testament to Balinese architectural prowess. Observe the intricate carvings, the split candi bentar gateways, the statues of gods and mythical beings, and the multi-tiered meru towers. The beauty of Balinese stone carving and traditional construction is evident throughout the complex.

Spiritual Ambiance: Beyond its physical beauty, Pura Besakih offers a profound spiritual experience. You will feel an aura of tranquility, sacredness, and strong positive energy. Especially if you are fortunate enough to witness an ongoing traditional ceremony, your experience will be even richer.

When exploring Besakih, it's crucial to respect its sanctity. Dress modestly, avoid excessive noise, and always ask permission before taking photos of people or areas that appear particularly private. Local guides are often available to provide deeper insights into the history, mythology, and spiritual significance of each temple within this vast complex.

Travel Tips & Logistics

Visiting Pura Besakih, the "Mother of All Temples," requires careful preparation to ensure your experience is smooth, comfortable, and meaningful. Given the complex's vast scale and its location on the mountainside, here are some essential tips to help you plan your trip:

Best Time to Visit:

Morning: Arrive as early as possible, ideally before 9 AM. The air is still cool, crowds haven't peaked, and the morning light is beautiful for photography, especially with the misty Mount Agung as a backdrop.
Weekdays: Avoid Balinese weekends and national holidays if possible. Pura Besakih can get very crowded on these days, which can detract from the solemn atmosphere.
Dry Season (April - September): The weather is generally clearer and drier, reducing the chance of rain that could disrupt your exploration.

Access and Transportation:

Location: Pura Besakih is located in Besakih Village, Rendang District, Karangasem Regency, Bali. It is approximately 60-70 km northeast of Denpasar.
Transportation Options:
Car Rental with Driver: This is the most convenient way to reach Besakih, especially if you plan to visit other nearby sites. A local driver will be very helpful with navigation and providing basic information.
Motorbike/Scooter Rental: For adventurous travelers seeking more flexibility, renting a motorbike can be an option. However, be mindful of the winding roads and inclines.
Online Taxis/Ride-Sharing: Available in major cities like Denpasar and Ubud, but ensure you book a round trip or arrange a pick-up schedule.
Organized Tours: Many travel agents in Bali offer tour packages to Pura Besakih, which usually include transportation, entrance tickets, and sometimes a guide.

Entrance Fees and Additional Costs:

Entrance Fee: There is an entrance fee charged for foreign and domestic tourists. Prices are subject to change, so it's always good to check for the latest information.
Mandatory Guide: At Pura Besakih, you will be required to hire a certified local guide to explore the main complex. This is a policy enforced to maintain the sanctity of the place and provide a more in-depth experience. Guide fees are typically separate from the entrance fee.
Sarong Rental (Kain and Selendang): It is mandatory for all visitors to wear a sarong and sash (saput/kamen and selendang) as lower body and waist coverings as a sign of respect. You can rent or purchase these in the areas surrounding the temple.
Donations/Offerings: If you plan to make offerings or participate in rituals, have cash ready for donations.

What to Bring:

Drinking Water: Bring enough drinking water, especially if visiting during the hot midday. There are vendors selling drinks, but carrying your own is more practical.
Sunscreen and Hat: The sun can be intense, especially in open areas.
Camera: Capture the beauty of the architecture and scenery.
Cash: For entrance fees, guides, sarong rentals, donations, and souvenir purchases. Not all places accept cards.
Comfortable Shoes: You will be doing a lot of walking, so wear comfortable footwear.

Etiquette and Rules:

Dress Modestly: Wear clothing that covers your shoulders and knees. Always wear a sarong and sash within the temple complex.
Respect Worshippers: Avoid walking in front of people who are praying or performing rituals. Do not photograph people worshipping without permission.
Maintain Cleanliness: Dispose of trash properly.
Avoid Loud Noise: Keep your voice low so as not to disturb the sanctity of the holy site.
Do Not Touch Reliefs or Statues: Unless directed by your guide.

Accommodation:

While there is no accommodation within the temple complex itself, you can find various lodging options in the areas surrounding Besakih, ranging from simple homestays to boutique hotels. Kintamani and Ubud also serve as good bases for day trips to Besakih.

Facilities:

Public restrooms are available in certain areas.
Food and beverage vendors are located in the areas outside the temple complex.

By following these tips, your visit to Pura Besakih will be a more organized, enjoyable, and respectful experience of one of Bali's most sacred sites.

Cuisine & Local Experience

While Pura Besakih itself is a spiritual and cultural center, the experience of visiting this complex can be enriched by sampling local cuisine and experiencing the life of the surrounding communities. The Rendang area and its surroundings offer authentic Balinese flavors worth trying after exploring the grandeur of the "Mother of All Temples."

Local Cuisine Around Besakih:

Babi Guling (Suckling Pig): One of Bali's most iconic dishes. In areas closer to central Bali like Gianyar, you'll find more famous Babi Guling. However, in local warungs (eateries) around Besakih, you might find simpler yet delicious versions, especially if you discover a vendor serving this dish.

Ayam Betutu (Spiced Roasted Chicken): A whole chicken seasoned with Balinese spices, then wrapped in banana leaves and roasted or grilled. The meat is incredibly tender and flavorful. Some restaurants in the busier areas around Besakih offer this dish.

Nasi Campur Bali (Balinese Mixed Rice): An excellent option to taste various side dishes in one serving. White rice is served with a selection of accompaniments like Balinese spiced shredded chicken, sate lilit, hard-boiled egg with chili sauce, urap (vegetables with grated coconut), and various sambals. It's a great way to experience the diversity of Balinese culinary flavors.

Lawar: A dish made from a mixture of chopped vegetables (usually young jackfruit or long beans), grated coconut, spices, and sometimes minced meat (chicken, duck, or pork). There is lawar merah (red lawar, with a bit of blood) and lawar putih (white lawar, without blood). Its taste is unique and distinctly Balinese.

Sate Lilit (Minced Meat Satay): A different kind of satay. Minced chicken, fish, or pork is mixed with grated coconut, coconut milk, and spice blends, then wrapped around lemongrass stalks or bamboo skewers before grilling. The aroma of lemongrass adds a unique fragrance.

Sambal Matah (Raw Shallot Sambal): A fresh Balinese chili relish made from thinly sliced shallots, lemongrass, bird's eye chilies, kaffir lime leaves, and coconut oil. It is typically served as a condiment for seafood or grilled chicken.

Local Experiences:

Interaction with Locals: The communities in the villages surrounding Besakih are generally friendly and open to visitors. If you have the opportunity to interact, try to learn a little about their daily lives, traditions, and how they maintain the sanctity of the temple.

Local Markets: If your visit coincides with market days in the surrounding villages, visit a traditional market. You can see various fresh produce, spices, traditional textiles, and experience the authentic local life atmosphere.

Wood and Stone Carving: In some villages on the slopes of Mount Agung, you might find wood or stone carvers. Visiting their workshops can be an educational experience, witnessing firsthand the process of creating artworks that often adorn Bali's temples.

Traditional Ceremonies: If you are lucky, you might witness traditional ceremonies taking place in smaller temples around Besakih. Always observe from a distance respectfully and do not disturb the proceedings.

Coffee and Cocoa Plantations: The mountainous region around Besakih also has coffee and cocoa plantations. Some small agrotourism sites may offer short tours to see the cultivation and processing, as well as sample their produce.

Culinary Tips:

Local Warungs: For the most authentic and affordable culinary experience, look for local warungs (simple eateries). Ask the owners for dish recommendations.
Cleanliness: While local warungs offer genuine flavors, pay attention to the cleanliness of the eating place and food preparation.
Ask for Prices: Always ask for prices before ordering, especially in places that do not display a price list.

Sampling local cuisine and interacting with the surrounding communities will add a new dimension to your visit to Pura Besakih. It's an opportunity to touch the pulse of Bali's true life, complementing the spiritual and cultural experience you've gained at the "Mother of All Temples."

Conclusion

Pura Besakih is more than just a tourist destination; it is the spiritual heart of Bali, a monument to architectural grandeur, and a silent witness to the island's history and culture. As the "Mother of All Temples," this complex radiates a profound aura of sacredness, making it an invaluable pilgrimage site for Hindus and a captivating destination for travelers seeking spiritual and cultural understanding.

Exploring Besakih means immersing yourself in the beauty of Mount Agung's slopes, admiring intricate carvings, and feeling the tranquility that permeates every corner. From Pura Penataran Agung to the smaller temples scattered across the mountainside, each structure holds a story and meaning. This experience is enriched by understanding its long history, the myths that surround it, and its irreplaceable role in the lives of the Balinese people.

With careful planning, respect for customs, and an openness to learn, your visit to Pura Besakih will be a transformative journey. It is an opportunity to connect with the essence of Bali, engage in spiritual reflection, and develop a deep appreciation for its rich cultural heritage. Pura Besakih stands as a reminder of the power of faith, the beauty of tradition, and the harmony between humanity and the universe, continuously preserved by the Island of the Gods.

Besakih Temple: Bali's Largest and Holiest 'Mother of All Temples'