Introduction

Besakih Temple, perched on the southwestern slopes of Mount Agung in Karangasem, Bali, stands as the largest and holiest temple complex on the island, earning it the revered title of "Mother Temple of Bali" (Pura Baile). This magnificent complex is not a single edifice, but rather a sprawling ensemble of 23 distinct temples, each dedicated to revered deities and ancestral spirits.

Situated at an altitude of approximately 1,000 meters above sea level, Besakih offers breathtaking vistas, not only of its stunning Balinese architecture but also of the dramatic natural landscape, including the majestic panorama of Mount Agung. The sheer grandeur of this sacred site, surrounded by terraced rice paddies, lush forests, and flowing rivers, creates a profound and unparalleled spiritual ambiance.

For Hindus in Bali, Besakih is the epicenter of spiritual and ritualistic life. The temple hosts numerous grand and significant ceremonies throughout the year, drawing thousands of devotees from all corners of Bali and even from abroad. Visiting Besakih is more than just admiring ancient architecture; it's about experiencing the vibrant pulse of Balinese spiritual life that remains deeply ingrained in the island's culture. It is a place where history, culture, and faith converge, creating an unmissable destination for anyone seeking to understand the essence of the Island of the Gods.

This article will guide you through the captivating allure of Besakih Temple, from its rich history and main attractions to practical tips for your visit. Prepare to be mesmerized by Bali's "Mother Temple."

History & Background

The history of Besakih Temple is deeply intertwined with Balinese mythology and the evolution of Hinduism on the island. It is believed that the temple's origins predate the arrival of Hinduism, with evidence suggesting the existence of megalithic worship sites in the area during prehistoric times. These were later developed and adapted as Hindu influences grew.

The most popular legend surrounding Besakih's inception links it to the Balinese King of Gods, Hyang Pasupati, who is said to have instructed Hindu priests to establish a temple at this location. The earliest written records mentioning Besakih date back to the 8th century AD, found in inscriptions discovered in Bali, indicating that Besakih was already an important center during the Warmadewa Dynasty.

Over the centuries, Besakih Temple underwent continuous development and expansion by various royal dynasties of Bali, including the Warmadewa, Udayana, and Gelgel Dynasties. Each ruler often contributed to its construction or renovation, making the complex a reflection of the evolving Balinese Hindu architecture and beliefs.

Besakih reached its zenith as a spiritual and political hub during the Gelgel Kingdom (approximately 15th to 17th centuries). The kings of Gelgel established Besakih as the center of their power and frequently performed grand ceremonies here to seek blessings and divine favor.

In 1963, Besakih Temple suffered severe damage during the devastating eruption of Mount Agung. Ironically, this natural disaster was interpreted as a spiritual sign by many Balinese Hindus. They believed the eruption was the way of Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa (The One Almighty God) to purify and renew the temple's sanctity. This event spurred an extraordinary spirit of collective effort from the entire Balinese community to restore and rebuild Besakih Temple, further solidifying its position as a symbol of resilience and faith.

It is crucial to note that Besakih Temple is not the property of a single family or village, but belongs to all Balinese Hindus. Its management is a collective responsibility, reflecting the deep-seated value of togetherness in Balinese culture.

The complex comprises 23 main temples and numerous smaller shrines. These temples are broadly divided into three major groups representing the Trimurti (Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva): Pura Kiduling Kreteg (Shiva), Pura Mademangan (Brahma), and Pura Batumadeg (Vishnu).

Pura Penataran Agung: The central temple dedicated to Lord Shiva, often the focal point of major ceremonies.
Pura Kiduling Kreteg: A temple located to the south, also associated with Lord Shiva.
Pura Batumadeg: Represents Lord Vishnu.
Pura Mademangan: Represents Lord Brahma.

In addition to these, there are other temples dedicated to royal ancestors, guardian deities, and natural elements.

With a history spanning thousands of years, Besakih Temple has witnessed the ebb and flow of Balinese civilization, natural calamities, and spiritual awakenings. Its robust presence at the foot of Mount Agung makes it a silent witness to the enduring richness of Balinese Hindu traditions and philosophy.

Main Attractions

Besakih Temple, as the "Mother Temple of Bali," offers a rich and multi-layered experience, captivating visitors with its spiritual beauty, magnificent architecture, and stunning natural landscape. Its main attractions can be categorized as follows:

Architecture and Complex Structure

The Besakih Temple complex is an extraordinary masterpiece of Balinese architecture. Consisting of 23 distinct temples, they are all integrated into one vast, terraced landscape, following the natural contours of Mount Agung's slopes. Each temple possesses its own unique characteristics, yet collectively they exude harmony and solemnity.

Temple Gates (Candi Bentar and Paduraksa): As you enter the Besakih area, you will be greeted by majestic stone gates, adorned with intricate Balinese carvings. These gates serve as symbolic transitions from the outer world to the sacred realm.
Meru (Temple Towers): One of the most striking elements is the tiered towers known as Meru. The number of tiers on a Meru symbolizes the levels of deities or ancestors being venerated. The highest Meru at Besakih is generally dedicated to Lord Shiva.
Courtyards and Terraced Stairs: The complex features numerous spacious courtyards connected by stone staircases. This terraced design is not only aesthetically pleasing but also reflects the philosophy of spiritual ascent towards enlightenment.
Carvings and Reliefs: Almost every stone surface at Besakih is adorned with detailed carvings depicting mythological stories, deities, and natural motifs. The fineness and complexity of these carvings showcase the skill of Balinese artisans.
Pura Penataran Agung: As the main temple, Pura Penataran Agung is the heart of the Besakih complex. It houses the tallest Meru and a large courtyard that often serves as the venue for major ceremonies. This temple is dedicated to Lord Shiva.
Pura Basukih: A smaller but highly significant temple, believed to be the oldest in the complex.
Pura Dalem Puri: A temple dedicated to ancestral goddesses, playing a crucial role in specific ceremonies.

Natural Scenery and Strategic Location

One of Besakih Temple's most awe-inspiring attractions is its dramatic location on the slopes of Mount Agung. Its elevation provides spectacular panoramas:

Mount Agung Panorama: The view of Bali's highest active volcano serves as the most iconic backdrop. On clear days, its towering peak instills a sense of grandeur and natural power.
Valleys and Green Rice Terraces: From Besakih, you can gaze upon fertile valleys and verdant, terraced rice paddies stretching as far as the eye can see. This landscape offers a beautiful contrast between human endeavor and natural beauty.
Bali Sea (on exceptionally clear days): On very clear, fog-free days, fortunate visitors might catch a glimpse of the Indian Ocean coastline in the distance.

Spiritual and Religious Atmosphere

Besakih Temple is the spiritual heart of Bali. The atmosphere here is distinct from other temples due to its scale and significance.

Rituals and Ceremonies: If you are fortunate, you may witness Balinese Hindus performing prayers or even grand ceremonies like Eka Dasa Rudra (held every 100 years) or Purnama Kasa. The sounds of sacred chants, the scent of incense, and the sight of devotees in prayer create a profound spiritual ambiance.
Pilgrimage Center: Thousands of Hindus visit Besakih for pilgrimage, to seek blessings, and to celebrate holy days. Their continuous presence adds to the spiritual energy of the place.
Reverence for Deities and Ancestors: The complex serves as a place of worship for various major deities in Balinese Hinduism, as well as the ancestors of Balinese kings. This reflects Bali's belief in the harmonious relationship between humanity, nature, and the spiritual world.

Cultural Experience and Interaction

Visiting Besakih is also an opportunity to gain a deeper understanding of Balinese culture.

Local Vendors and Priests: Around the temple area, you will find many vendors selling offerings (banten), traditional attire (sarongs and sashes are mandatory), and local guides. Interacting with them can provide additional insights.
Appropriate Attire: Visitors are required to wear modest clothing, including a sarong and sash, which can be rented on-site. This is part of respecting the sanctity of the place.

Facilities and Environment

Despite being a sacred site, Besakih is equipped with facilities for visitor comfort, such as parking areas, restrooms, and food stalls. Its serene environment and cool mountain air enhance the comfort while exploring the vast complex.

With its blend of stunning architecture, spectacular natural views, and a powerful spiritual aura, Besakih Temple offers an unforgettable experience for every visitor, making it more than just a tourist attraction, but a journey of the soul.

Travel Tips & Logistics

To ensure your visit to Besakih Temple is smooth and meaningful, here are some travel and logistics tips to consider:

Best Time to Visit

Morning Hours: Visiting in the morning (around 8:00 AM - 11:00 AM) is highly recommended. The air is cooler, the sky is usually clear, and you can avoid the peak crowds.
Weekdays: Avoid Balinese weekends and national holidays if possible, as the temple will be very crowded with pilgrims.
Dry Season (April - September): The weather is generally drier and clearer, offering the best views of Mount Agung.
Major Ceremonies: If you are interested in witnessing major ceremonies, research the schedule beforehand. However, be prepared for immense crowds during these times.

Getting to Besakih Temple

Besakih Temple is located in Karangasem Regency, about a 2-3 hour drive from Denpasar or Kuta, depending on traffic.

Hire a Car with a Driver: This is the most comfortable and recommended option. You can hire a car with a driver on a daily basis or per trip. Drivers are usually fluent in English and can provide basic information about Bali.
Motorbike Rental: For the adventurous, renting a motorbike can be a more economical choice, but keep in mind the distance is considerable, and road conditions can vary.
Public Transport: Direct public transport to Besakih is very limited. You may need to take intercity buses to Klungkung or Bangli, and then continue by bemo or local taxi.
Organized Tours: Many travel agencies offer day tours to Besakih Temple from major tourist areas like Ubud, Kuta, or Seminyak.

Entrance Fees and Additional Costs

Entrance Ticket: There will be an entrance fee charged at the main gate. Prices are subject to change, so have cash ready.
Sarong and Sash Rental: Visitors are required to wear a sarong and sash. These can usually be rented near the ticket booth or in the parking area. The cost is relatively affordable.
Local Guide (Optional): You will be offered the services of local guides within the complex. Official guides usually have identification cards. Agree on a price before starting the tour. Guides can provide in-depth historical and cultural insights, but independent visits are also possible.
Donations: In some temple areas, there may be donation boxes. Making a donation is a way to contribute to the temple's upkeep.

Etiquette and Dress Code

Modest Attire: This is the most important rule. Wear clothing that covers your shoulders and knees. A sarong and sash must be worn, covering your waist.
Remove Footwear: Take off your shoes before entering more sacred temple areas.
Respect Worshippers: Do not disturb devotees who are praying or performing rituals. Keep your voice low.
No Smoking or Pets: Smoking is prohibited within the temple complex. Pets are also not allowed.
Do Not Sit on Statues or Sacred Structures: Maintain a respectful attitude towards all elements of the temple.

On-Site Facilities

Parking Area: Ample parking is available, both near the main gate and at various points within the complex.
Restrooms: Public restrooms are available, though their cleanliness may vary.
Food and Drink Stalls: Numerous stalls sell snacks, drinks, and souvenirs along the path to the temple and in certain areas within the complex.
ATMs: It is advisable to carry sufficient cash as not all places accept cards.

Safety and Health

Beware of Scams: Be cautious of overly aggressive tour or service offers. Clearly set prices before agreeing to anything.
Drink Plenty of Water: Although the air is cool, walking around the extensive complex can be dehydrating. Carry a water bottle or purchase drinks from stalls.
Use Sunscreen and a Hat: Despite being at a high altitude, the sun can still be intense.
Watch Your Step: Stairs and pathways can be slippery, especially when wet.

Additional Tips

Carry Cash: Most transactions here are cash-based.
Camera: Have your camera ready to capture the beauty of the architecture and scenery, but always respect privacy and the sanctity of the place when taking photos.
Open Mind: Come with an open mind to learn and experience a unique spiritual journey.

With thorough preparation, your visit to Besakih Temple will be a profound and memorable experience, filled with cultural understanding and admiration for Bali's spiritual grandeur.

Cuisine & Local Experience

While Besakih Temple itself is a sacred site focused on spirituality, exploring the surrounding areas and descending the mountain slopes offers unique opportunities to taste local cuisine and experience the life of Balinese people at the foot of the mountain.

Local Culinary Delights Around Besakih

As you descend from the temple complex, you'll find numerous warungs (local eateries) and small restaurants serving local dishes. Opt for places that seem busy with locals for an authentic experience.

Nasi Campur Bali (Balinese Mixed Rice): A must-try dish. White rice is served with a variety of small side dishes, such as Balinese-spiced shredded chicken, sate lilit (minced meat satay), spiced hard-boiled eggs, urap (steamed vegetables with seasoned grated coconut), and sambal matah (raw shallot and chili relish). Each warung has its own signature blend of spices.
Babi Guling (if available): In some areas of Karangasem, you might find warungs serving babi guling, a whole roasted pig dish with crispy skin and tender meat. However, this is more commonly found in other regions like Gianyar.
Ayam Betutu: A whole chicken seasoned with Balinese spices, wrapped in banana leaves, and slow-cooked until the meat is extremely tender and flavorful.
Sate Lilit: Minced meat (chicken, fish, or pork) mixed with grated coconut and spices, wrapped around lemongrass stalks or bamboo skewers before grilling. The aroma is incredibly enticing.
Lawar: A traditional Balinese dish made from a mixture of finely chopped meat, vegetables (such as young jackfruit or long beans), grated coconut, and spices. There is lawar merah (with blood) and lawar putih (without blood).
Terong Penyet: Fried eggplant mashed with a spicy chili sauce.
Fresh Drinks: Enjoy fresh young coconut water directly from the shell to quench your thirst. You can also try Balinese coffee or local herbal teas.

Local Experiences to Enrich Your Visit

Beyond cuisine, several local experiences can enrich your visit:

Interact with Locals: The people in the Besakih area are generally friendly. If opportunities arise, engage in conversation (politely) to understand their daily lives, which are closely tied to the temple and agriculture.
Observe Local Crafts: Along the roads leading to or from Besakih, you might find vendors selling simple handicrafts, such as small wood carvings, woven fabrics, or spiritual trinkets. Buying from them supports the local economy.
Witness Agricultural Life: The landscape around Besakih is dominated by rice paddies and plantations. Observing farmers working in their fields provides insight into the primary livelihoods of the Balinese people.
Seek Unique Souvenirs: Besides handicrafts, you can look for souvenirs related to Balinese spirituality, such as miniature temples, deity statues, or aromatic incense.
Visit a Traditional Market (if time permits): If you have more time, visit a nearby traditional market in the morning. This is the best way to see a variety of fresh produce, spices, and the authentic daily life of the Balinese.

Tips for Enjoying Local Cuisine and Experiences

Carry Cash: Most small warungs only accept cash.
Try Small Portions: If you are unsure about the spiciness or flavor, ask for a small portion or try a few different side dishes.
Ask About Ingredients: If you have dietary restrictions or allergies, don't hesitate to ask the vendor about the ingredients used.
Enjoy the Ambiance: Sit at a simple warung, enjoy your meal while gazing at the natural scenery, and feel the peace at the foot of Mount Agung.

Combining a spiritual visit to Besakih Temple with culinary exploration and local interaction will provide a more complete and profound understanding of Bali's cultural richness and the lives of its people, making it a holistic and unforgettable travel experience.

Conclusion

Besakih Temple, Bali's "Mother Temple," is a destination that transcends mere physical beauty. Majestically situated on the slopes of Mount Agung, this sacred complex is the spiritual heart of the Island of the Gods, a silent witness to millennia of history, and a symbol of Balinese Hindu culture and unwavering faith.

From its magnificent architecture harmoniously integrated with the natural landscape to its profound spiritual aura, Besakih offers a transformative experience. Every corner tells stories of deities, royal ancestors, and a rich philosophy of life.

A visit to Besakih is not just a tourist journey, but an act of reverence for invaluable cultural and spiritual heritage. By understanding its history, appreciating its grandeur, and adhering to the prevailing etiquette, visitors can absorb the peace and inspiration offered by this sacred place.

Whether you are a spiritual seeker, a history enthusiast, an architecture lover, or simply wish to grasp the essence of Bali, Besakih Temple is a must-visit. It reminds us of the power of nature, the depth of faith, and the enduring beauty of traditions that continue to thrive in the heart of the Island of the Gods.

Make Besakih Temple the pinnacle of your Balinese exploration, and let its majesty resonate within your soul.

Besakih Temple: Bali's Mother Temple at the Foot of Mount Agung