Introduction

Bali, the Island of the Gods, renowned worldwide not only for its stunning beaches and natural beauty but also for its profound spiritual richness. At the heart of Bali's spirituality stand two magnificent temples, silent witnesses to the history, traditions, and beliefs of the Hindu Dharma community on the island: Pura Besakih and Pura Ulun Danu Beratan. These two temples, while possessing unique characteristics, both emanate an aura of tranquility and sanctity that captivates every visitor. Pura Besakih, dubbed Bali's 'Mother Temple,' is the largest and holiest temple complex, majestically situated on the slopes of Mount Agung. Meanwhile, Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, with its iconic location on the shores of Lake Beratan, offers breathtaking views and serves as a crucial center for Bali's traditional irrigation system. Visiting these two sites is more than just a tourist trip; it's a spiritual experience that will bring you closer to the essence of Balinese culture and religion. Prepare to be mesmerized by the stunning architecture, the solemn atmosphere, and the ancient stories etched in every corner.

History & Background

Pura Besakih: Bali's Majestic Mother Temple

Pura Besakih, literally meaning 'Temple on the Mountain,' is the largest and oldest temple complex in Bali. Nestled on the southeastern slopes of Mount Agung, Bali's highest and most sacred mountain, this temple is not just a single structure but a vast complex comprising 23 main temples and hundreds of smaller shrines. The history of Pura Besakih is believed to date back to prehistoric times, with archaeological evidence suggesting religious activities at the site as early as the 8th century AD. However, the form and structure of the complex we see today have been significantly influenced by the development of Bali's Hindu kingdoms, particularly the Warmadewa Dynasty.

Pura Besakih is considered the center of all spiritual life in Bali. Each temple within the complex is dedicated to a specific deity or ancestor, with the most prominent being Pura Penataran Agung Besakih, dedicated to Sang Hyang Tri Murti (Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva). The complex is also a vital site for grand ceremonies, most notably the Eka Dasa Rudra, held every one hundred years to rebalance the universe. Natural disasters, such as the eruption of Mount Agung in 1963, caused damage to parts of the temple, but the Balinese people, with their resilient spirit, diligently rebuilt it, showcasing their spiritual fortitude.

Pura Ulun Danu Beratan: Beauty on the Lakeside

In contrast to the grandeur of Pura Besakih towering on the mountain, Pura Ulun Danu Beratan offers a more serene and romantic charm. Located on the shores of Lake Beratan in Bedugul, Tabanan Regency, this temple was founded in 1634 by I Gusti Agung Putu Balingkang. The temple is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the goddess of water and fertility, who plays a crucial role in Bali's traditional irrigation system known as Subak.

Subak is a traditional water management system recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Pura Ulun Danu Beratan serves as the spiritual center for this Subak system, ensuring the smooth flow of water from the lake to the farmers' rice paddies. The temple's architecture is highly distinctive, featuring tiered meru (pavilions) with thatched roofs that rise beautifully, seemingly floating on the lake's surface, especially during high tide. The temple comprises four main complexes, each dedicated to different Hindu deities, but its primary focus remains the worship of Dewi Danu.

These two temples, despite their differences in location and scale, share a common role as spiritual and cultural hubs of Bali. Both represent the harmony between humans, nature, and spirituality that characterizes Balinese society.

Main Attractions

1. Pura Besakih: Architectural Grandeur and the Spirituality of Mount Agung

Pura Besakih, Bali's 'Mother Temple,' offers an unparalleled experience for visitors. This complex, spanning nearly a square kilometer, consists of over 80 temples, with Pura Penataran Agung Besakih as its centerpiece. As you enter the complex, you'll be greeted by a majestic series of stone steps leading to intricately ornamented candi bentar (split gates). Bali's distinctive architecture is evident in every corner, from detailed stone carvings and statues of gods and goddesses to soaring meru towers.

Pura Penataran Agung Besakih: This is the main temple and the heart of the entire complex. It houses three padmasana (divine thrones) dedicated to Sang Hyang Tri Murti: Brahma (red), Vishnu (black), and Shiva (white). The majestic backdrop of Mount Agung enhances the sacred aura of this place.
Pura Kiduling Kreteg: This temple is nestled on the northeast side of the complex and is dedicated to Lord Mahadewa.
Pura Bale Agung: Serves as a meeting place for gods and ancestors.
Pura Basukih: The oldest temple in the complex, believed to be the dwelling place of ancestral spirits.

Beyond its architectural beauty, Pura Besakih also offers breathtaking natural vistas. Situated on the mountainside, visitors can enjoy panoramic views of lush green valleys and terraced rice fields. The solemn atmosphere, especially during religious ceremonies, provides a profound spiritual experience. Visitors often feel a strong energy and inner peace while here.

2. Pura Ulun Danu Beratan: The Iconic Charm of Lake Beratan

Pura Ulun Danu Beratan is one of Bali's most frequently photographed icons. Located on the shores of Lake Beratan in Bedugul, this temple offers exceptionally beautiful and serene views. The temple complex consists of several parts, but the most famous are:

Pura Lingga Petak: The main temple dedicated to Sang Hyang Widhi Wasa in his manifestation as the creator god.
Pura Teratai: Situated on the lake's edge, this temple features a seven-tiered meru (pavilion), symbolizing the majesty of Dewi Danu.
Pura Dalem Purwa: Established to worship ancestral spirits.

The uniqueness of Pura Ulun Danu Beratan lies in its location, appearing to float on the water. When the lake's water level rises, the temple seems to hover, creating a dramatic silhouette, especially during sunrise or sunset. This view is stunning and often serves as the perfect backdrop for photographs.

In addition to its architectural beauty and location, Pura Ulun Danu Beratan is also a crucial center for the Subak irrigation system. Visitors can observe how this temple is integrated with nature and the lives of the local farmers. The cool and tranquil atmosphere around the lake, surrounded by green hills, enhances its appeal as a spiritual relaxation destination.

Cultural and Spiritual Experiences:

Religious Ceremonies: If you are fortunate enough to witness a religious ceremony in progress, you will experience a rich tapestry of unique traditions and rituals.
Traditional Attire: Visitors are expected to dress modestly and wear a sarong and sash, which are usually available for rent at the entrance.
Meditation and Reflection: The serene environment of both temples is highly conducive to meditation and self-reflection, allowing visitors to connect with themselves and the universe.

Visiting Pura Besakih and Pura Ulun Danu Beratan is a journey that combines admiration for architecture, natural beauty, and the profound spirituality of Bali.

Travel Tips & Logistics

A Comprehensive Guide to Visiting Pura Besakih & Ulun Danu Beratan

Visiting these two most important spiritual sites in Bali requires a bit of planning to ensure your trip is smooth and meaningful. Here are the essential tips and logistical information you need to know:

1. Best Time to Visit:

Pura Besakih: Morning hours (around 8:00 AM - 10:00 AM) are ideal to avoid crowds and the intense midday sun. The view of Mount Agung is also clearer in the morning. Avoid visiting during major ceremonies, as access may be restricted, and crowds will be very dense.
Pura Ulun Danu Beratan: Early morning, before 10:00 AM, offers a more serene view and the lingering mist that enhances the lake's beauty. Late afternoon before sunset also presents a magical panorama but can be more crowded.

2. How to Get There:

Transportation: The most common and recommended way is to hire a private car with a driver or use a tour service. The distance from Denpasar to Pura Besakih is about 1.5-2 hours, while to Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, it's about 1-1.5 hours.
Pura Besakih: Located in Rendang District, Karangasem Regency. The common route from Denpasar is via Gianyar and Klungkung.
Pura Ulun Danu Beratan: Situated in Candikuning, Baturiti District, Tabanan Regency. It is located on the main road heading to Singaraja.
Public Transport: Very limited for reaching these temples, so it's not recommended.

3. Entrance Fees & Opening Hours:

Opening Hours: Both temples are generally open from morning until late afternoon, approximately 8:00 AM to 6:00 PM. However, for Pura Besakih, the main areas might open earlier for rituals.
Entrance Fees: Ticket prices vary for domestic and international tourists. Budget around IDR 30,000 - IDR 60,000 per person per temple (prices are subject to change). Tickets usually include access to the main areas.

4. Attire & Etiquette:

Modest Clothing: It is crucial to wear modest clothing that covers your shoulders and knees. Almost all temples in Bali require visitors to wear a sarong and sash. You can rent or purchase these near the locations.
Respect Rituals: If you are fortunate enough to witness a ceremony, maintain a respectful distance and avoid disturbing the ritual. Never photograph individuals performing rituals without permission.
Local Guides: At Pura Besakih, you might be offered the services of a local guide. This can help you understand the history and significance of the place, but ensure you agree on the fee beforehand to avoid misunderstandings.

5. Facilities & Preparation:

Drinking Water & Snacks: Bring sufficient drinking water, especially when visiting Pura Besakih, which is more remote and can be hot. There are food stalls and souvenir vendors around both locations.
Cash: Have enough cash for entrance fees, sarong rentals, guides, and souvenir purchases.
Health: Use sunscreen, a hat, and sunglasses, especially during the day. If you have pre-existing medical conditions, ensure you carry your personal medications.
Comfortable Shoes: You will be doing a lot of walking, so wear comfortable footwear.

6. Points to Note:

Scam Awareness: At Pura Besakih, some visitors have reported scams related to tickets or guides. Ensure you purchase tickets at the official counter and agree on guide fees in advance.
Road Conditions: The road to Pura Besakih can be winding and narrow in parts. Pura Ulun Danu Beratan has easier access.

With thorough preparation, your visit to Pura Besakih and Pura Ulun Danu Beratan will be a safe, comfortable, and deeply enriching experience.

Cuisine & Local Experience

Savoring Bali's Delicacies Near Pura Besakih & Ulun Danu Beratan

A spiritual journey to Pura Besakih and Pura Ulun Danu Beratan is more complete with a taste of Bali's culinary richness and a firsthand experience of its local culture. Although these temples focus primarily on spiritual and cultural aspects, the surrounding areas offer various culinary options and experiences worth exploring.

1. Balinese Local Cuisine Nearby:

Local Eateries (Warungs): Around both temples, you'll find numerous local eateries (warungs) serving authentic Balinese home-style cooking. This is the best way to experience genuine Balinese flavors at affordable prices. Try:
Nasi Campur Bali: White rice served with various side dishes like Ayam Betutu, Sate Lilit, Urap Sayuran (vegetable salad), and Sambal Matah (raw chili relish).
Ayam Betutu: A whole chicken marinated with Balinese spices, wrapped in banana leaves, then roasted or grilled until tender and flavorful.
Sate Lilit: Minced meat (fish, chicken, or pork) mixed with grated coconut and spices, then wrapped around lemongrass stalks or bamboo before grilling.
Lawar: A traditional Balinese dish made from a mixture of chopped vegetables (usually young jackfruit or long beans), grated coconut, minced meat, and spices.

Restaurants with Views: In the Bedugul area near Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, several restaurants offer beautiful lake views. Here, you can enjoy a slightly more varied menu, including fresh seafood (if available) or international dishes, while soaking in the tranquil ambiance.

Fresh Fruits: The Bedugul region is famous for its agricultural produce. Don't miss the opportunity to sample fresh fruits like strawberries, passionfruit, or grilled corn sold along the roadside.

2. Unique Local Experiences:

Traditional Markets: Near Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, you can visit the traditional market in Bedugul. This market offers a wide array of fresh produce, spices, handicrafts, and Balinese clothing. Interacting with local vendors can be an interesting cultural experience.

Interaction with Locals: Balinese people are known for their friendliness and politeness. Try to engage with them; ask about their daily lives, traditions, or even about the temples you are visiting. A respectful and polite attitude will open doors to pleasant conversations.

Learning about Subak: Around Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, you can witness firsthand how the Subak system operates. If possible, talk to local farmers to understand how vital this temple is in maintaining the balance of water and soil fertility for them.

Tasting Balinese Coffee: Bali also produces delicious coffee. In some cafes or restaurants, you can try rich Balinese coffee, often served with palm sugar.

Souvenir Shopping: Around both temple sites, many vendors sell various Balinese souvenirs, from wood carvings and beach fabrics to silver jewelry and traditional clothing. Bargaining is part of the shopping culture here, but do it politely and friendly.

By exploring local cuisine and interacting with the community, your visit to Pura Besakih and Pura Ulun Danu Beratan will not only enrich your soul but also delight your palate and provide a deeper understanding of the true Balinese way of life.

Conclusion

Pura Besakih and Pura Ulun Danu Beratan are two invaluable spiritual gems on the Island of Bali. Both offer more than just architectural beauty and natural scenery; they are windows into the spiritual and cultural heart of the Balinese people. Pura Besakih, with its grandeur on the slopes of Mount Agung, represents profound strength and sanctity, while Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, with its charm by the lake, symbolizes the harmony between humans, nature, and spirituality maintained through the Subak system. Visiting these two sites provides a rare opportunity to reflect, learn, and feel the tranquil energy that can only be found in sacred places like these. Make your trip to Bali more meaningful by exploring the wonders of Pura Besakih and Pura Ulun Danu Beratan, and take home memories and insights that will last a lifetime.

Glimpse of Besakih & Ulun Danu Beratan: Bali's Spiritual Heart