Introduction
Surabaya, the second-largest metropolitan city in Indonesia, is often dubbed the "City of Heroes." However, beyond its historical moniker, Surabaya is a vibrant hub of economy, culture, and the primary gateway to the stunning natural beauty of East Java. Situated on the northern coast of Java Island, this city offers a captivating blend of modern skyscrapers and gracefully preserved colonial remnants. For many travelers, Surabaya might be seen as a transit point before heading to Mount Bromo or Ijen Crater, but for those willing to linger, the city holds a wealth of deep and layered experiences.
As the capital of East Java Province, Surabaya possesses a unique character compared to Jakarta. Its residents, known as Arek-Arek Suroboyo, have a reputation for their openness, bravery, and straightforward yet sincere friendliness. This character is reflected in the city's dynamic yet orderly atmosphere. Surabaya has transformed into a green and clean city, thanks to its numerous well-maintained city parks, making it one of the most livable cities in Indonesia. From luxurious international-scale shopping malls to bustling traditional markets, Surabaya offers a complete spectrum of urban adventures. This guide will take you through every corner of this city, helping you understand why Surabaya is not just a gateway, but a must-visit destination.
History & Background
The name "Surabaya" originates from a folk etymology combining the words Suro (shark) and Boyo (crocodile). Local legends tell of a fierce battle between these two creatures for territorial dominance, which later became a symbol of the courage and unyielding spirit of its inhabitants. Historically, Surabaya has been an important port city since the Majapahit Kingdom era. Its strategic location at the mouth of the Kalimas River made it a center for the spice and international commodity trade, connecting the interior of Java with the outside world.
During the Dutch colonial period, Surabaya developed into a modern port city and industrial center. European architectural influences are strongly evident in the northern part of the city, now known as Old Surabaya (Kota Tua Surabaya). Buildings like the Red Bridge (Jembatan Merah) and Hotel Majapahit (formerly Hotel Oranje) stand as silent witnesses to past grandeur and national struggles. The name "City of Heroes" itself was solidified after the heroic events of November 10, 1945. The Battle of Surabaya was one of the largest and fiercest battles in Indonesia's national revolution, where the people of Surabaya bravely fought against Allied forces to defend their independence.
Ethnic diversity is also a pillar of Surabaya's background. The city is a harmonious melting pot of cultures. Chinese, Arab, and Madurese communities have settled here for centuries, creating distinct cultural enclaves like the Ampel Area and Kya-Kya (Kembang Jepun). This acculturation is not only visible in the adjacent places of worship but also permeates the local dialect, traditions, and, of course, its cuisine. Understanding Surabaya means appreciating how this history of struggle and diverse identities has shaped the resilient and egalitarian mentality of its citizens to this day.
Main Attractions
Surabaya offers a variety of destinations encompassing history, religion, and modern lifestyle. Here are some of the main attractions you shouldn't miss:
1. Submarine Monument (Monkasel)
Located in the heart of the city, right beside the Kalimas River, Monkasel is an actual KRI Pasopati 410 submarine of the Indonesian Navy, retired and turned into a museum. It is a Soviet-built Whiskey-class submarine. Visitors can enter and explore every compartment, from the torpedo room to the control room, providing a real glimpse into life underwater and Indonesia's maritime strength.
2. Ampel Religious Tourism Area
This is the heart of the Arab community in Surabaya. Here stands the Ampel Mosque, built in the 15th century by Sunan Ampel, one of the Wali Songo who spread Islam in Java. The atmosphere here is strongly reminiscent of the Middle East. You will pass through narrow markets selling dates, perfumes, and Muslim attire before reaching the Sunan Ampel tomb complex, which is always crowded with pilgrims.
3. House of Sampoerna
Housed in a magnificent Dutch colonial-style building constructed in 1862, this museum narrates the history of the kretek cigarette industry in Indonesia through the Sampoerna family dynasty. One of its main attractions is witnessing hundreds of female workers hand-rolling cigarettes with incredible speed. The building's beautiful architecture and its cafe make it one of the most aesthetic spots in Surabaya.
4. Heroes Monument and November 10 Museum
As the city's icon, this 41-meter-high monument was built to commemorate the events of November 10. Beneath the monument lies a museum housing artifacts, photographs, and recordings of Bung Tomo's speeches that ignited the spirit of the fighters. The surrounding park is vast and lush, perfect for a leisurely stroll in the afternoon.
5. Suramadu National Bridge
Connecting Surabaya to Madura Island, this bridge is the longest in Indonesia. The best views are obtained at night when the bridge's lights illuminate beautifully. You can cross to Madura to simply enjoy authentic Madurese fried duck or visit Jaddih Hill.
6. Bungkul Park and Green Open Spaces
Surabaya is known for its award-winning parks. Bungkul Park is a center of community activity, equipped with free Wi-Fi, a skateboarding area, and a culinary zone. Additionally, Taman Harmoni (a former landfill transformed into a flower garden) and the Bamboo Forest of Keputih offer a tranquil and very Instagrammable atmosphere.
Travel Tips & Logistics
Planning a trip to Surabaya requires attention to weather and transportation details to maximize your experience.
Transportation to Surabaya:
Surabaya is very accessible. Juanda International Airport (SUB) serves domestic flights from all over Indonesia and several international routes such as Singapore and Malaysia. For land travel, Surabaya has two main train stations: Pasar Turi Station (for northern routes, e.g., from Jakarta via Semarang) and Gubeng Station (for southern routes, e.g., from Yogyakarta and Bandung). Purabaya Bus Terminal (Bungurasih) is also one of Indonesia's busiest terminals, connecting Surabaya with other cities in Java and Bali.
Local Transportation:
- Online Transportation Apps: Grab and Gojek are dominant and the easiest ways to get around.
- Suroboyo Bus: This is a unique public transportation innovation. You can pay your fare by exchanging used plastic bottles at designated stops, as part of an environmental campaign. The buses are clean, air-conditioned, and have routes covering major roads.
- Taxis: Blue Bird taxis remain a reliable choice for extra comfort.
Best Time to Visit:
Surabaya has a hot and humid tropical climate. Average temperatures range from 28°C to 34°C. The best time is during the dry season (May to September). In November, although the rainy season begins, the city celebrates Heroes' Day with various cultural festivals and lively parades.
Accommodation:
Choose accommodation in the City Center (Tunjungan or Basuki Rahmat) area if you want to be close to shopping centers and historical buildings. For a more modern and exclusive atmosphere, the West Surabaya area offers luxury hotels and easy access to golf courses and large malls like Pakuwon Mall.
Other Logistics Tips:
- Clothing: Wear light cotton clothing as Surabaya's air can be very hot during the day.
- Connectivity: 4G/5G signals are very strong throughout the city.
- Cash: Although digital payments (QRIS) are common in cafes and malls, still carry cash for shopping at traditional markets or street food stalls.
Cuisine & Local Experiences
A trip to Surabaya is incomplete without a culinary adventure. Surabaya's cuisine is known for its bold, spicy, and savory flavors, often using petis (black shrimp paste) as a key ingredient.
1. Rawon: A beef soup with a thick black broth derived from kluwek fruit. Rawon Setan (named so because it used to only open at night) or Rawon Nguling are must-try places. The tender meat is served with warm rice, bean sprouts, salted egg, and chili sauce.
2. Rujak Cingur: This is a unique traditional salad. It consists of a mixture of fruits, vegetables, tofu, tempeh, and the main ingredient: chewy boiled cingur (cow's snout). Everything is drenched in a thick petis sauce and peanuts. Rujak Cingur Ahmad Jais is one of the most legendary in the city.
3. Lontong Balap: Consists of lontong (rice cakes), abundant bean sprouts, fried tofu, and lentho (a type of fried bean cake). The taste is fresh and savory, usually enjoyed with chewy and spicy shrimp satay.
4. Bebek Goreng (Fried Duck): Surabaya is a paradise for fried duck lovers. Bebek Sinjay (originally from Madura with many branches in Surabaya) or Bebek Tugu Pahlawan offer fried duck with spices that penetrate to the bone, served with a sour and spicy sambal pencit (young mango chili paste).
Local Experience on Tunjungan Street:
At night, visit Tunjungan Street. This historic area has been revitalized into a vibrant public space with the concept of "Tunjungan Romansa." You can walk around enjoying the old architecture, watch street music performances, and sample various contemporary and traditional snacks at aesthetic cafes housed in colonial buildings. This is the best place to feel the pulse of Surabaya's youth lifestyle.
Souvenir Shopping:
Don't forget to bring home Spikoe Resep Kuno (soft Mandarin layer cake), Kerupuk Ikan Kenjeran (Kenjeran fish crackers), or the very famous Sambal Bu Rudy (Bu Rudy's chili paste). For handicrafts, Pasar Genteng offers a wide selection of processed seafood and traditional East Javanese snacks.
Conclusion
Surabaya is a city that offers more than meets the eye. It is a harmonious blend of respect for its history of struggle and ambition towards a modern and green future. As the gateway to East Java, Surabaya provides a cultural foundation and urban comfort before you explore the natural wonders around it.
However, Surabaya's true charm lies in its soul—in the friendliness of its people, in the aroma of petis spices on every street corner, and in the pride radiating from its monuments. Whether you are a history buff, a culinary hunter, or a business traveler, Surabaya will welcome you with open arms and an unforgettable character. Take at least two or three days to truly immerse yourself in this city, and you will discover that Surabaya is not just a transit point, but a destination with a story on every street.
Happy exploring the City of Heroes!