Kehen Temple

Origins and Historical Periodization

Tracing the history of Pura Kehen takes us back to the era before the Gelgel dynasty ruled. Based on epigraphic evidence in the form of three copper inscriptions kept within the temple, the origin of this site can be traced back to the 9th century AD. The oldest inscription, known as Prasasti Bangli Pura Kehen A, is dated 804 Saka (882 AD). This inscription mentions a settlement named "Hyang Kareman" which later developed into a spiritual center.

A significant figure often associated with the development of this temple is Sri Adikunti Ketana, a ruler in the 12th century. However, significant development also occurred during the reign of King Sri Rajapurana in the 11th century. The name "Kehen" itself originates from the word "Kerehen," meaning a place for storing fire (sacred fire), referring to the worship of Dewa Agni (the God of Fire) who was the protector of the kingdom.

Majestic Architecture and Tiered Mound Structure

One of the main unique features of Pura Kehen is its building structure, which does not follow the Tri Mandala (three courtyards) pattern horizontally on flat land, but is arranged vertically or in tiers following the hilly topography. This architecture is a heritage of the megalithic "Punden Berundak" tradition, harmoniously blended with Hindu-Balinese aesthetics.

To enter the temple, visitors must climb 38 stone steps flanked by statues of characters from the Ramayana epic. At the top of the stairs stands the Candi Kurung, which serves as the main gate (Pemedal Agung). Uniquely, this gate is adorned with very fine and detailed stone carvings, as well as fragments of ancient Chinese porcelain plates attached to the gate's walls—a testament to the close trading relationship between the people of Bangli and merchants from mainland China in the past.

In the first courtyard (Jaba Sisi), there is a giant banyan tree estimated to be hundreds of years old. On its branches hangs a Bale Kulukul (wooden bell tower), giving an impression of mysticism and grandeur.

The Wonder of the Eleven-Tiered Meru

The heart of Pura Kehen lies in the innermost courtyard (Jeroan). Here stands an eleven-tiered Meru Tumpang Sebelas, a sacred tower with eleven roof levels dedicated to Hyang Kehen or the manifestation of God as Dewa Agni. This eleven-tiered structure is the highest level in the hierarchy of temple architecture in Bali, signifying that Pura Kehen holds the status of Pura Negara or the main temple for the Bangli Kingdom.

Besides the Meru, there is a unique structure called Padmasana Tiga. Unlike the typical single Padmasana, the Padmasana at Pura Kehen has three sacred thrones side-by-side on a single base structure. Its carvings are very intricate, depicting a giant turtle (Bedawang Nala) entwined by two dragons, symbolizing the balance of the cosmos in Hindu mythology.

Cultural Significance and Historical Events

Historically, Pura Kehen served as the center of law and oaths of loyalty for royal officials. During the golden age of the Bangli Kingdom, newly appointed officials would perform the "Sumpah Cor" ceremony or oath of loyalty before Hyang Kehen. If they betrayed or committed corruption, it was believed they would be struck by a sacred curse (sapatha).

This temple also bears silent witness to the transitions of power in Bali. As Dutch colonial influence began to enter the Bangli region in the mid-19th century, Pura Kehen remained a symbol of cultural resistance and identity for the local community. Its existence united the various clans (soroh) in Bangli, who to this day have a collective responsibility (pengempon) to preserve the temple.

Preservation and Restoration

As a protected cultural heritage site, Pura Kehen has undergone several stages of restoration. Significant damage occurred due to a major earthquake in the early 20th century (Bali Earthquake 1917). The people of Bangli, along with archaeologists, gradually rebuilt the collapsed sections while maintaining the original materials and traditional carving techniques.

Currently, the preservation status of Pura Kehen is under the supervision of the Cultural Preservation Center (BPK) Region XV. Conservation efforts are focused on cleaning moss from the sandstone carvings, which are prone to erosion from weather, and maintaining the ancient porcelain pieces attached to the temple walls. The authenticity of the site is preserved because the local community strongly adheres to the concept of awig-awig (traditional law) in maintaining the sanctity and physical integrity of the buildings.

Religious Meaning and Ritual Uniqueness

To this day, Pura Kehen remains the main spiritual center in Bangli. A grand ceremony called Karya Agung Bhatara Turun Kabeh is held every three years (on the full moon of the fifth month). This ceremony involves thousands of devotees from all corners of Bangli and is a moment when historical values and noble traditions are revived.

Another unique fact is the division of worship areas that reflects tolerance and cultural assimilation. Pura Kehen is not only worshipped by one lineage but by all levels of Bangli society regardless of caste, making it a strong symbol of social unity from the kingdom's era to the modern age.

Conclusion

Pura Kehen is a masterpiece that bridges the megalithic past, the glory of the Hindu-Balinese kingdom, to the present day. With its ancient inscriptions, magnificent tiered mound architecture, and intricate carvings that tell stories of inter-nation relations, this temple stands as a monument to the architectural intelligence and spiritual depth of the Balinese people. Preserving Pura Kehen is not just about maintaining stone buildings, but about preserving the identity and collective memory of a timeless civilization.