Akywen Coffee Shop (Manggar Coffee)
in East Belitung, Kepulauan Bangka Belitung
Published: Januari 2025
About
Inhaling Ancestral Heritage at Akywen Coffee Shop: The Heart of Manggar Coffee Culture
East Belitung Regency, especially Manggar City, has long held the title of "City of a Thousand and One Coffee Shops." Behind this nickname lies a name that has been a pillar of history and a guardian of authentic Belitung coffee flavor: Akywen Coffee Shop. Located in the bustling center of Manggar, this coffee shop is more than just a place to quench thirst; it is a cultural institution that has recorded the social journey of the East Belitung community for decades.
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Historical Roots and the Philosophy of Coffee Culture
Established during the tin mining boom era in Belitung, Akywen Coffee Shop was founded by a Chinese descendant family who brought the kopitiam tradition from mainland China but adapted it to local tastes and produce. The name "Akywen" itself refers to the founder who started this humble business.
For the people of Manggar, "ngopi" (drinking coffee) is not just a caffeine consumption activity. It is a social ritual known as ngupi. At Akywen Coffee Shop, this tradition blurs social class distinctions. Here, tin miners, government officials, fishermen, and tourists sit at the same wooden tables, discussing local politics to family economic issues, all accompanied by the thick, dark coffee smoke.
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Characteristics of Manggar Coffee: Akywen's Techniques and Kitchen Secrets
What makes Akywen Coffee different from coffee in big cities? The answer lies in the traditional processing methods passed down through generations. Akywen Coffee Shop does not use sophisticated modern espresso machines but rather a manual pull technique that produces a very smooth coffee texture.
Selected Ingredients:
The coffee used is high-quality Robusta, specially sourced from Lampung or Palembang, but roasted in-house with a secret family technique. The coffee roasting process at Akywen often involves a mixture of a little butter or sugar to impart a distinctive caramel aroma and reduce sharp acidity, creating a profile that is bold, nutty, and slightly sweet even without sugar.
"Kopi Tarik" Brewing Technique:
The main uniqueness lies in the use of an old-fashioned long-necked kettle and a sock-shaped cloth filter. The barista—usually a family member or a senior staff member who has worked for decades—will lift the kettle high and pour boiling water into the cloth filter filled with fine coffee grounds. This "pulling" process is repeated until the coffee essence is perfectly extracted, producing a fine foam on its surface. This technique ensures the water temperature is maintained and oxygen enters the brew, maximizing the coffee's aroma release.
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Signature Menu: A Symphony of Black and Milk
Akywen Coffee Shop has a concise yet legendary menu. Its two main stars are:
1. Kopi O (Black Coffee): Thick black coffee with a little sugar at the bottom of the glass. This coffee has a full body and a clean bitter taste, perfect for boosting energy in the morning.
2. Kopi Susu (Milk Coffee): This is the most sought-after menu item. Unlike modern lattes, Akywen's milk coffee uses sweetened condensed milk poured at the bottom of a small glass, then topped with hot coffee extract from the pull. To enjoy it, stir slowly until the deep black color turns into an enticing caramel brown. The taste is very savory with a balance between the coffee's bitterness and the milk's sweetness.
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Culinary Companions: Traditional Belitung Snacks
The experience at Akywen Coffee Shop is incomplete without tasting its distinctive accompanying snacks. The shop offers various traditional market snacks placed on small plates on the tables:
- Roti Bakar Selai Srikaya (Toasted Bread with Srikaya Jam): White bread toasted over embers until crispy, then spread with homemade srikaya jam that is thick, fragrant with pandan leaves, and rich in eggs.
- Pisang Goreng (Fried Bananas): Kepok bananas fried with a thin batter, providing a crispy exterior and a soft interior.
- Singkong Goreng (Fried Cassava): Simple yet a loyal companion to bitter Kopi O.
- Mie Rebus Belitung (Belitung Boiled Noodles): Often, vendors around the coffee shop will deliver orders of yellow noodles with a thick, savory shrimp broth to complement Akywen's breakfast visitors.
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Atmosphere and Architecture: A Time Machine in Manggar
Entering Akywen Coffee Shop is like stepping back in time. Its interior retains the classic kopitiam aesthetic. The faded walls add to the antique feel, adorned with old wall calendars and black-and-white photos depicting Manggar in the past.
Round tables with marble or old teak wood surfaces are surrounded by sturdy wooden chairs. The clinking sound of spoons against small glass cups creates a distinctive background music. There is no air conditioning; only old fans rotating slowly, but the open airflow keeps the atmosphere cool even when Manggar's weather is hot.
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Heritage Value and Sustainability
Akywen Coffee Shop is not just a culinary business; it is a guardian of intangible heritage. Amidst the onslaught of contemporary coffee shops offering minimalist concepts and Arabica beans from around the world, Akywen remains steadfast in its identity. They prove that authenticity has its own market share.
The Akywen family maintains quality by remaining directly involved in the production process. The srikaya jam recipe and the coffee bean blend ratio are kept secret, passed down only to direct descendants. This is what keeps loyal customers returning, even those who have migrated far to Jakarta or abroad will always make time to "come home" to Akywen when they return to Belitung.
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"Empty Cup" Tradition and Local Etiquette
There is a unique dining etiquette here. Visitors are usually not rushed even if their coffee is finished. The culture of "sitting for a long time" is highly valued. Often, empty coffee cups will remain on the table for hours as a sign that the discussion is not yet over. The staff at Akywen understand this social rhythm and rarely aggressively ask "Would you like to order anything else?", giving privacy to every conversation that takes place.
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Conclusion
Akywen Coffee Shop is a microcosm of East Belitung life. It is a place where the bitterness of coffee meets the sweetness of brotherhood. For anyone visiting the Land of Laskar Pelangi, stopping by Akywen Coffee Shop is not just about drinking coffee, but about breathing in the air of history and feeling the strong, pulsating heartbeat of local culture that continues to beat today. In every sip of Akywen's signature Manggar Coffee, there is a story of perseverance, tradition, and the warmth of the Belitung people that will never fade with time.
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