Gatot Thiwul Yu Tum

Historical Roots and the Legend of Yu Tum

The story of Gatot Thiwul Yu Tum cannot be separated from the figure of its pioneer, Ibu Tumirah, affectionately known as Yu Tum. She began selling thiwul and gatot in 1985. At that time, Gatot and Thiwul were not considered luxurious foods; they were staple foods that replaced rice, which was difficult to grow in the limestone-rich soil of Gunungkidul.

Yu Tum had a vision to elevate this "village" food into a dish worthy of enjoyment by all walks of life. With recipes passed down through generations and dedication to maintaining quality, Yu Tum succeeded in changing public perception. Today, her main outlet, located on Jalan Wonosari-Paliyan, precisely north of the Wonosari Village Hall, has become a must-visit destination for travelers and lovers of Indonesian cuisine.

Thiwul: Softness from Gaplek Flour

Thiwul is the main dish that is the star at Yu Tum's outlet. Unlike typical thiwul, which can often be hard or have a sharp sour aroma, Yu Tum's Thiwul has a very soft and chewy texture.

The preparation process begins with selecting the best quality cassava. The cassava is peeled, cleaned, and then dried under the sun until it becomes completely dry gaplek. This gaplek is then pounded into fine flour. The uniqueness of Yu Tum's Thiwul lies in the "mewiru" technique, which involves slowly mixing the gaplek flour with a little water by hand (manually) until small, uniform grains are formed.

These flour grains are then steamed using a traditional copper "dandang" with a bamboo woven base. Yu Tum continues to use firewood for the steaming process, as the smoky aroma produced adds a dimension of flavor that cannot be replicated by a gas stove. The end result is thiwul that is sweet (due to the addition of authentic palm sugar) or plain, served with grated young coconut, which provides a natural savory taste.

Gatot: Chewy Black Gem

If Thiwul is made from flour, then Gatot is a more whole cassava product that undergoes a unique natural fermentation process. Yu Tum's Gatot is known for its very chewy (bouncy) texture and its deep, glossy black color.

The black color of the gatot does not come from artificial coloring, but rather from the process of drying the gaplek, which is exposed to rain and then dried again multiple times. This natural fermentation process creates an elastic texture and a distinctive aroma. Before serving, the gatot must be soaked for two days and two nights, cleaned, cut into small pieces, and then steamed for a long time.

At Yu Tum's outlet, Gatot is served with a sprinkle of grated coconut and a little salt. The combination of the slightly sweet-sour fermented taste of the gatot with the savory coconut creates a very authentic and addictive flavor harmony.

Kitchen Secrets and Traditional Techniques

The key to the success of Gatot Thiwul Yu Tum lies in its consistency with tradition. To this day, despite very high demand, the production process still involves the skilled hands of local residents. The use of traditional tools such as a lesung for pounding and a tampah for sifting flour is still maintained.

One of the secrets to its deliciousness is the use of authentic Gula Jawa (palm sugar) produced locally in Gunungkidul. This sugar has the right level of sweetness and a stronger aroma compared to granulated sugar. Additionally, the coconut used for topping must be from coconuts that are not too old (kemruyuk) to produce soft and oily grated coconut.

Cultural Context and Eating Traditions

Enjoying Gatot Thiwul Yu Tum is not just about filling your stomach. For the people of Yogyakarta, this food is a reminder of the past. In the past, thiwul was eaten with side dishes like rice, such as chili paste, salted fish, and green chili vegetables. However, in Yu Tum's hands, this dish has transformed into an elegant snack or souvenir.

The tradition of serving gatot and thiwul in a besek (bamboo woven box) is also maintained by Yu Tum's family. The use of besek is not without reason; the pores in the bamboo weave allow hot steam to escape, preventing the gatot and thiwul from spoiling quickly and maintaining their texture during long journeys. This makes it a favorite souvenir that can last up to two days without chemical preservatives.

A Legacy That Continues to Grow

Currently, the management of Gatot Thiwul Yu Tum has been taken over by the next generation, but Yu Tum's spirit in preserving the authentic taste has never faded. They have introduced various flavor innovations, such as chocolate, cheese, or jackfruit flavored Thiwul to attract the interest of the younger generation. However, the original variant remains the most sought after.

Yu Tum's outlets are now spread across several points in Gunungkidul, including near the entrance to Goa Pindul tourist attraction and Baron Beach. The existence of these outlets has stimulated the local economy, from cassava farmers, palm sugar makers, to besek craftsmen.

Conclusion: A Symbol of Food Security

Gatot Thiwul Yu Tum is tangible proof that traditional cuisine can survive amidst the onslaught of modern and Western-style foods. It is a symbol of food security born from the local wisdom of the limestone mountain community. Every grain of thiwul and every chewiness of gatot tells the story of the long struggle for survival of the Gunungkidul people, embodied in a delicious culinary masterpiece.

For anyone visiting Yogyakarta, the journey doesn't feel complete without navigating the winding roads to Wonosari to taste the authenticity of Gatot Thiwul Yu Tum directly from its origin. There, behind the wisps of smoke from its traditional kitchen, we don't just taste food, but also feel the warmth of the culture and the love that Yu Tum entrusted in every serving.