Van der Wijck Fortress

The Grand Footprint of Van der Wijck Fortress: A Silent Witness to Colonialism in Gombong

Van der Wijck Fortress is more than just an ancient pile of red bricks standing strong in Gombong, Kebumen Regency, Central Java. This historical site is one of the most unique Dutch East Indies military relics in Indonesia, both in terms of its architecture and historical value. As a defense fortress that has weathered various eras, this building stands as a silent witness to the transformation of power from the Dutch colonial era, the Japanese occupation, to the independence of the Republic of Indonesia.

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Origins and Construction Period

The history of Van der Wijck Fortress began in the early 19th century. Initially, this building was not a massive defense fortress, but rather a trading office for the Nederlandsche Handel-Maatschappij (NHM) or the Dutch East Indies trading company. However, the outbreak of the Diponegoro War or Java War (1825–1830) changed the strategic function of the Gombong area.

General Frans David Cochius, a Dutch military strategist, recognized the importance of Gombong as a logistical and defense point to cut off the guerrilla routes of Prince Diponegoro's forces in the Bagelen region and its surroundings. Construction began in 1818, and gradually the building was repurposed as military barracks and a defense fortress. The name "Van der Wijck" itself is taken from the name of Carel Herman Aart van der Wijck, a Dutch military figure who served as Governor-General of the Dutch East Indies during the period 1893-1899, as a form of respect for his services in strengthening colonial defenses.

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Architectural Uniqueness: The Iconic Octagonal Shape

One of the most prominent aspects of Van der Wijck Fortress is its architectural style. Unlike other Dutch fortresses which are generally square or star-shaped (bastions), Van der Wijck Fortress has a regular octagonal shape. This shape is very rarely found in Indonesia and was designed to provide a 360-degree field of vision for guards, ensuring no blind spots when monitoring enemies.

The fortress is built entirely using red bricks without external plastering, giving it a strong and robust aesthetic. The building covers an area of approximately 3,606 square meters with a height of 10 meters. The structure consists of two floors; the lower floor was used as soldier barracks, logistics rooms, and offices, while the upper floor served as the main defense fortress equipped with observation holes and cannon emplacements.

The wall thickness reaches 1.4 meters, designed to withstand the bombardment of heavy cannons of its time. In the center of the fortress, there is a large open courtyard that served as a parade ground for soldiers or for military drills. Another unique feature is the flat roof made of thick concrete, which has now been equipped with a mini-train track for tourists—a modern innovation that does not alter the original structure but offers a different experience.

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Historical Significance and Important Events

During the Diponegoro War, this fortress served as the coordination center for the Stelsel Benteng (Fortress System) tactics. This strategy aimed to restrict the movement of Diponegoro's forces by building small, interconnected fortresses in every area successfully controlled by the Dutch. Gombong became the main base due to its strategic location on the southern route of Java.

After the Java War ended, the fortress was transformed into a Pupillen School, a special military school for children of European descent and indigenous nobles who were being prepared to become non-commissioned officers of the Dutch East Indies Army (KNIL). This school operated until the arrival of the Japanese army in Indonesia in 1942.

During the Japanese occupation (1942–1945), the fortress was repurposed as a training camp for PETA (Pembela Tanah Air - Defenders of the Homeland) soldiers. After Indonesia gained independence, the fortress complex was controlled by the TNI and was once used as barracks for the Army. History records that many important Indonesian military figures received their education or served in this Gombong military environment.

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Preservation and Current Status

The Kebumen Regency government, in cooperation with the private sector and the TNI, undertook extensive restoration efforts in the late 1990s. Since 2000, Van der Wijck Fortress has been officially opened as a historical and cultural tourist attraction. Although it has undergone renovation, the authenticity of the building's structure has been maintained. The dominant red brick color across the entire building surface is a highly photogenic characteristic that attracts both domestic and international tourists.

Currently, the fortress is managed as an educational tourism site. Within the fortress complex, visitors can see remnants of underground prisons, ammunition rooms, and old barracks. The presence of hotels and playgrounds around the fortress area does add a modern touch, but the core historical value of the fortress is preserved through the maintenance of its old walls and its magnificent octagonal structure.

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Unique Facts and Popular Culture

One unique fact that may not be widely known is that Van der Wijck Fortress was once a filming location for the Indonesian epic action film, The Raid 2: Berandal. The long corridors of the fortress and its somber yet grand atmosphere provided a powerful visual backdrop for the prison scenes in the film.

Culturally, this fortress has become an identity for the people of Gombong and Kebumen. This site proves that Kebumen played a vital role in the military history of the archipelago. The existence of this fortress also serves as a reminder of the hard struggle of the people against colonialism, and how a colonial building can transform into an educational asset for future generations.

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Conclusion

Van der Wijck Fortress is a masterpiece of military architecture that transcends its function as a tool of war. With its unique octagonal shape, iconic red brick walls, and a long history spanning three eras, this fortress stands as a monument to the complexity of Indonesian history. The preservation of this site is crucial so that future generations can understand that Indonesia's independence was achieved through a long process, involving territorial disputes, sophisticated military strategies, and the physical resilience of buildings like Van der Wijck Fortress in the heart of Central Java.