Candi Sewu

The Splendor of United Dynasties: History and Architecture of Candi Sewu

Candi Sewu stands as a silent monument representing the peak of Buddhist civilization in Central Java. Located within the Prambanan Temple Tourist Park complex, administratively, this site is in Dukuh Bener, Desa Bugisan, Kecamatan Prambanan, Kabupaten Klaten. Although less popular than Candi Borobudur or Candi Prambanan in mass tourism narratives, Candi Sewu holds the title of the second-largest Buddhist temple complex in Indonesia after Borobudur, and chronologically, it is older than the Hindu-themed Candi Prambanan.

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Origins and Construction Period

Candi Sewu was built in the 8th century AD, precisely during the reign of Rakai Panangkaran (746–784 AD), the second king of the Mataram Kuno (Medang) Kingdom. The original name of this temple, as recorded in the Kelurak Inscription (782 AD) and Manjusrigrha Inscription (792 AD), was "Prasada Vajrasana Manjusrigrha." This name means "House of Manjusri," referring to one of the Bodhisattvas in Mahayana Buddhism who symbolizes transcendental wisdom.

Initial construction began by Rakai Panangkaran, but extensive expansion was carried out by his successors, including Rakai Pikatan. Interestingly, although Rakai Pikatan was a Hindu follower of the Sanjaya Dynasty, he expanded Candi Sewu as a form of respect for his wife, Pramodawardhani, who was a Buddhist from the Syailendra Dynasty. This proves that during that period, religious tolerance in Java had reached a very advanced level.

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Architecture and Mandala Layout

Etymologically, "Sewu" means a thousand in Javanese. This name originates from the Roro Jonggrang legend, although factually, the number of temples in this complex is 249 buildings. The structure of the Candi Sewu complex adopts the concept of Mandala, a representation of the universe in Buddhist cosmology.

The complex has a rectangular plan measuring 185 meters north-south and 165 meters east-west. The main entrance is on the east side, where each gate is guarded by a pair of Dwarapala statues—giant guardians holding maces. These statues are carved from solid andesite stone with a majestic yet not frightening expression, unlike the Dwarapala style of the East Javanese period which tends to be more fearsome.

The building structure consists of one Main Temple surrounded by four rows of perwara (attendant) temples. The Main Temple has a 20-angled polygonal plan resembling a cross or star with a diameter of 29 meters and a height reaching 30 meters. Inside the main temple is a large chamber (cella) which was once believed to contain a four-meter-tall bronze statue of the deity Manjusri, but the statue is now lost, possibly looted or melted down in the past.

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Historical Significance and Political Diplomacy

Candi Sewu is not merely a place of worship; it is a symbol of political reconciliation between two great Javanese dynasties, the Syailendra and Sanjaya. Its position, only about 800 meters north of Candi Prambanan, indicates harmonious coexistence. Archaeologists believe that Candi Sewu functioned as a vital center for Buddhist religious activities, possibly even serving as a university or a center for dharma learning for monks from all over Southeast Asia.

One unique fact that is rarely known is the role of Candi Sewu in asserting the sovereignty of Mataram Kuno over its surrounding territories. Through the Manjusrigrha Inscription, it is known that the completion of the temple's renovation was inaugurated on November 2, 792 AD. This date is one of the most specific dates possessed by archaeological sites in Indonesia regarding the completion time of a magnificent structure.

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Damage, Rediscovery, and Restoration

The glory of Candi Sewu faded with the relocation of the Mataram Kuno's center of power to East Java in the 10th century, possibly due to the eruption of Mount Merapi or internal conflicts. For centuries, the site was buried under volcanic ash and overgrown with bushes until local communities only knew it through legends.

The first modern report on the existence of this site appeared during the British colonial period through the writings of Cornelius and was later published in the book The History of Java by Thomas Stamford Raffles in 1817. However, the condition of the temple at that time was very concerning; many parts of the building had collapsed due to major earthquakes that frequently struck the Klaten and Yogyakarta regions.

Restoration efforts began gradually in the 20th century by the Dutch East Indies government through the Oudheidkundige Dienst. However, the most significant restoration was carried out by the Indonesian government. The restoration of the Main Temple was completed in 1993 and inaugurated by President Soeharto. The biggest challenge arose during the 2006 Yogyakarta earthquake, which caused serious structural damage to the Main Temple. Since then, continuous renovations have been carried out to strengthen the building's structure using the anastylosis technique, which is reassembling original stone blocks to their original positions with the help of hidden concrete reinforcements.

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Current Cultural and Religious Significance

As part of the UNESCO World Heritage Site, Candi Sewu now functions not only as a historical tourist attraction. Every year, Buddhists in Indonesia and abroad revive the spiritual function of this temple through Waisak ceremonies or other religious celebrations.

The existence of Candi Sewu provides a lesson about "Bhineka Tunggal Ika" (Unity in Diversity) that has been practiced for thousands of years. Amidst the Prambanan landscape dominated by Hindu influence, Candi Sewu stands strong as a Buddhist identity, creating an unparalleled architectural harmony. The detailed reliefs on the temple walls, depicting Kalpataru (tree of life) motifs and celestial beings, remain a source of inspiration for artists and historians to understand the depth of the ancient Javanese people's philosophy of life.

The rescue and preservation of Candi Sewu in Klaten are crucial because it is key to understanding the cultural transition from the Central Javanese to the East Javanese period. With such a complex structure and a history involving great figures like Rakai Panangkaran and Pramodawardhani, Candi Sewu remains one of the most important archaeological gems in Southeast Asia, telling a story of faith, politics, and the engineering marvels of past humans.