Kampung Adat Todo
in East Manggarai, Nusa Tenggara Timur
Published: Januari 2025
About
Niang Todo Architecture: Symbol of Cosmology and Leadership
The main attraction and cultural foundation of Kampung Adat Todo is the Niang Todo, a cone-shaped traditional house with a thatched roof that drapes almost to the ground. Unlike traditional houses in other villages, the Niang Todo in this village holds the status of "Niang Mpo" or the royal matriarchal house. The structure of this building is not merely an architectural achievement but a manifestation of Manggarai cosmology.
Every element of the building has meaning. The five levels within Niang Todo symbolize life strata and social functions, ranging from living spaces, food storage, to sacred rooms for communicating with ancestors. In the center of the village, there is a large courtyard called Loka, with a circular stone arrangement that serves as a place for traditional ceremonies and a symbol of community unity. The presence of an ancient cannon in front of the main house is historical evidence of the diplomatic relations and military strength of the Todo Kingdom in the past.
Cultural Activities and Tradition Preservation Programs
As a cultural center, Kampung Adat Todo actively organizes programs aimed at transferring traditional knowledge to the younger generation. One of its flagship programs is an informal adat school, where elders (Tua Teno and Tua Golo) teach the art of speaking in a highly poetic and figurative adat language, known as Go’ét.
This preservation program also includes training in traditional rituals. Visitors can often witness or participate in a simulation of a guest reception ceremony called Paka Ga’u. In this procession, guests are welcomed with betel nut (Molas) and palm wine as a symbol of the openness of the Todo community. Education on dress code is also emphasized, where everyone entering the sacred area must wear the distinctive Manggarai woven sarong called Songke.
Performing Arts: Caci and Sacred Dances
Kampung Adat Todo is the main stage for the art of Caci, a legendary war dance. Caci is not just a spectacle but an arena for proving the masculinity, agility, and sportsmanship of Manggarai men. In Todo, Caci performances are conducted with very strict ritual standards. Players use buffalo hide whips (Larig) and shields (Nggiling), fighting to the rhythmic accompaniment of gongs and drums.
Besides Caci, Todo also preserves the Sanda and Meres dances. These dances are usually performed in groups with songs containing prayers of gratitude for the harvest or requests for protection to Mori Karaeng (God Almighty). Artistic activities in Todo are not seasonal; regular rehearsals are held on the verandas of traditional houses, making art the breath of daily life for its community.
Handicrafts: Philosophical Songke Weaving
In terms of crafts, Kampung Adat Todo is a production center for Songke weaving with very specific motifs. Women in Todo inherit weaving skills from generation to generation. Each motif on Todo's Songke fabric has a philosophical meaning:
- Motif Su’i: Symbolizes the boundaries of customary land.
- Motif Wuta Manuk: Symbolizes the relationship between humans and the creator.
- Motif Ntala: Stars symbolizing hope and life's enlightenment.
This cultural center provides a special area for tourists and researchers to learn about natural dyeing processes using mengkudu root and indigo leaves. The "Live-in Craftsmanship" program allows visitors to learn weaving directly from the master weavers in Todo, ensuring that these traditional techniques do not disappear due to modern fabrication.
Cultural Events and Annual Festivals
The most crucial moment in Kampung Adat Todo is the Penti ceremony. This is an annual festival as a form of gratitude for the past harvest and a plea for blessings for the next planting season. All members of the tribe who have migrated will return to Todo to participate in this ritual.
During Penti, the Barong Wae (invoking the guardian spirit of water sources) and Barong Oka (invoking the guardian spirit of the village) processions are held. The peak of the event is marked by the sacrifice of an animal, whose heart will be read by adat leaders to predict the village's fortune in the coming year. The Penti festival in Todo is considered one of the most authentic in Manggarai, attracting the interest of anthropologists from around the world.
Role in Local and Regional Cultural Development
Kampung Adat Todo functions as a "living laboratory" for cultural development in the Manggarai Raya region. As the former center of the kingdom, Todo serves as the primary reference for regional adat decision-making. The presence of a strong adat institution here assists the local government in formulating policies for the protection of cultural heritage sites.
This cultural center also promotes a community-based creative economy. With a concept of people-centered tourism, revenue from visits is managed collectively for the maintenance of traditional houses and scholarships for village children. This proves that cultural preservation can go hand in hand with economic welfare improvement.
Efforts in Cultural Heritage Conservation
The biggest challenge for Kampung Adat Todo is the physical preservation of buildings and the transmission of values amidst the wave of digitalization. To address this challenge, the Todo community, together with the government, conducts periodic revitalization of Niang Todo. The use of natural materials such as thatch and rattan is maintained with nail-free joining techniques.
In addition to physical aspects, conservation also targets the documentation of oral traditions. Currently, efforts are underway to digitize oral manuscripts and the genealogy of the large Todo family so that they can be accessed by future generations. Planting local trees used for building materials for traditional houses is also carried out around the village as part of the conservation of the cultural support environment.
Conclusion
Kampung Adat Todo is a manifestation of the steadfast identity of the Manggarai people. It is not merely a tourist object but an active subject that produces values, norms, and beauty. Through its magnificent architecture, sacred rituals, robust arts, and meticulous crafts, Todo continues to stand as the guardian of history's gateway. Visiting or studying Kampung Adat Todo is a journey back to the roots, reminding us that amidst the progress of the times, there are noble values from the past that remain relevant to guide the future. Todo is tangible proof that culture is the soul of a nation, which, if cared for properly, will continue to provide life for its descendants.
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