Tabona Restaurant
in Medan, Sumatera Utara
Published: Januari 2025
About
History and Preserved Family Heritage
Rumah Makan Tabona is more than just a place to eat; it is a symbol of a family's perseverance in preserving their flavor heritage. Founded around the 1980s, the name "Tabona" itself is derived from the Batak language, meaning "Very Delicious." This philosophy behind the name is proven not to be mere one-sided claim, but a collective recognition from generations of its loyal customers.
Tabona's success is rooted in the consistency of its founding family in maintaining the original recipe. Although Medan continues to evolve with modern cafes and fusion cuisine, Tabona remains steadfast in its simple interior format—long wooden tables, plastic chairs, and the typical lively atmosphere of old coffee shops (kopitiam) in North Sumatra. This simplicity actually emphasizes their main focus: the quality of the dishes on the plate.
Harmony of Spices in a Bowl of Curry
The main dishes that have made Tabona famous are Chicken Curry and Beef Curry. What distinguishes the curry here from curries elsewhere is the texture of its broth. Tabona's curry broth has a very thick consistency, rich in coconut milk but not cloying. Its deep reddish-orange color comes from a blend of selected red chilies and turmeric processed traditionally.
Each portion of curry is served with a choice of carbohydrates in the form of warm white rice or bihun (thin rice noodles). Bihun is a favorite choice for many because its texture allows it to absorb the curry broth to its deepest fibers, providing a sensation of exploding spice flavors with every bite.
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Kitchen Secrets: Ingredients and Cooking Techniques
The unique flavor of Tabona Curry stems from the highly selective choice of ingredients. The chicken used is only selected free-range chicken that has a denser meat texture yet remains tender after a long boiling process. For the beef variant, they use cuts of meat and offal (such as tripe and tendons) that are cooked to achieve the perfect tenderness.
Tabona's spice processing still maintains traditional methods. Spices like cumin, coriander, cardamom, and star anise are first toasted to release their essential oil aroma before being ground finely. The use of fresh coconut milk squeezed daily is the key behind the "round" and authentic savory taste.
One of the unique techniques applied is the slow cooking process. The meat is not just boiled in the broth, but cooked with the base spices for a long time, allowing the spices to penetrate to the bone. As a result, the chicken or beef meat not only tastes of the spices on the surface but also provides a deep savory flavor.
Fried Potatoes: An Essential Accompaniment
One element that should not be missed from Tabona Curry is the potato pieces. Unlike other places that only boil potatoes in the broth, Tabona fries its potatoes before adding them to the serving plate. This technique creates an outer layer of potato that is slightly crispy yet soft inside, and prevents the potatoes from disintegrating and clouding the clarity of the curry broth. These potatoes serve to balance the spicy and savory flavors of the curry broth.
Dining Tradition and Local Cultural Context
Eating at Rumah Makan Tabona is a socio-cultural experience. Here, social boundaries seem to melt away. You can see local officials, successful entrepreneurs, and online transportation drivers sitting at the same table, enjoying the same meal. This reflects the egalitarian character of the Medan people who highly appreciate delicious food above all else.
In line with Medan's culinary customs, curry is usually enjoyed as a hearty breakfast or lunch. This restaurant typically starts to be crowded with visitors from 7:00 AM. The culture of "queuing" and "sharing tables" is common here, especially on weekends. Besides curry, visitors usually order grilled cockles as a side dish or conclude their meal with a glass of strong, thick Medan-style milk coffee.
Consistency Amidst Modernization
In an era where many legendary restaurants are starting to open branches in malls or franchise massively, Tabona maintains its exclusivity. They choose to focus on quality at its original location on Jalan Mangkubumi. This is done to ensure that the taste standards do not change even slightly.
For the owner's family, maintaining Tabona is maintaining family honor. Every measured spice and every piece of meat served is a representation of their long history in Medan's culinary industry. The meticulousness in maintaining the spice ratio to remain the same as three decades ago is the reason why old customers always return, and new customers keep coming.
Conclusion: A Must-Visit Destination for Food Lovers
Rumah Makan Tabona is tangible proof that traditional cuisine managed with integrity will endure through time. Tabona Curry is not just food; it is a blend of Malay, Indian, and Chinese cultures that meld in one large pot of Nusantara spices.
For anyone visiting Medan, inhaling the aroma of spices wafting from Tabona's kitchen is an invitation to experience a part of the city's history. The tender texture of the meat, the rich broth, and the nostalgic cafe atmosphere make Rumah Makan Tabona stand tall as the highest peak of the curry culinary treasure in North Sumatra. In every bowl, lies a story of dedication, tradition, and of course, a flavor that is "Tabona"—very delicious.
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