Kuliner Legendaris

Grilled Pacak Fish

in Sibolga, Sumatera Utara

Published: Januari 2025

About

The Philosophy Behind the Name "Pacak"

The name "Pacak" in the local dialect has a specific meaning, which is "to pat" or "lightly tap." This naming directly refers to the unique cooking technique where the chef will pat or brush spices onto the surface of the fish using a natural brush made from a bruised lemongrass stalk. This "pacak" process is done repeatedly over hot embers, ensuring the spices penetrate deep into the meat fibers while keeping the fish moist and preventing it from drying out due to the fire's heat.

Culturally, Grilled Pacak Fish reflects the character of the Sibolga people, who are open yet steadfast in their traditions. The use of coconut milk and strong spices indicates the cultural acculturation between the coastal ethnic groups (Sibolga Coast) and the Batak and Minangkabau influences due to their geographical proximity.

Main Ingredients and Spice Uniqueness

The secret to the deliciousness of Grilled Pacak Fish lies in the freshness of its raw ingredients. In Sibolga, the fish used is usually Grouper, Snapper, or the most popular being Gambolo Fish (a type of mackerel) and Senangin Fish. These fish are typically caught by local fishermen in the morning and immediately processed, thus preserving the natural sweetness of the fish meat.

The basting sauce or "bumbu pacak" is what makes it distinctly different. Its composition consists of:

1. Thick Coconut Milk: Provides a creamy texture and deep savory flavor.

2. Red Chili and Bird's Eye Chili: Offers a biting level of spiciness that is still enjoyable.

3. Turmeric and Ginger: Eliminates the fishy odor while giving an appetizing golden-yellow color.

4. Shallots and Garlic: As an aromatic base.

5. Gelugur Tamarind or Sunti Tamarind: Adds a fresh dimension of flavor that cuts through the richness of the coconut milk.

6. Lemongrass and Kaffir Lime Leaves: Imparts a calming fragrant aroma.

Precise Traditional Processing Techniques

The process of making Grilled Pacak Fish requires patience and skilled hands. The stages begin with cleaning the fish and splitting it lengthwise (butterfly technique) so that the spices can penetrate evenly.

The uniqueness begins when the fish is placed on the grill. Instead of using ordinary wood charcoal, traditional Sibolga people prefer to use coconut shells (batok kelapa). The smoke from coconut shells provides a sharper and more distinctive smoky aroma compared to regular firewood.

When the fish is half-cooked, the chef begins the "Pacak" ritual. The bruised end of a lemongrass stalk is dipped into the rich, spiced coconut milk mixture, and then repeatedly patted onto the fish. The coconut milk dripping onto the embers creates fragrant smoke that envelops the fish, forming an exotic caramelized spice layer. This process is repeated several times until the spices thicken and form a flavorful spice "crust" on the fish's surface.

Legendary Culinary Destinations and Figures

When talking about Grilled Pacak Fish, the minds of Sibolga residents will surely turn to the Jalan Ahmad Yani area or the Pantai Pandan area in Tapanuli Tengah. One of the most frequently mentioned names is Ikan Panggang Pacak Kak Inun or legendary eateries around the Old Sibolga Port.

Families in Sibolga have their own secret recipes, especially regarding the ratio of coconut milk and the type of tamarind used. Some old families in Sibolga even add a little squeeze of jungga lime (a typical North Sumatran kaffir lime) to give a sharper aroma. The grilling expertise is usually passed down from mother to daughter, ensuring the original taste remains consistent for decades.

Eating Traditions and Cultural Context

Grilled Pacak Fish is rarely enjoyed alone. Traditionally, this dish is served as the main course in family feasts or traditional events. The best way to enjoy it is with warm white rice, accompanied by Sayur Daun Ubi Tumbuk (mashed cassava leaves with rimbang and cempokak) and Sambal Tuk-Tuk.

Sambal Tuk-Tuk itself is a mandatory accompaniment made from chilies, onions, and andaliman (Batak pepper) coarsely ground with the addition of aso-aso fish (dried fish). The combination of the savory-fatty taste of the grilled pacak fish with the bitter-spicy sensation of andaliman creates a flavor explosion that can only be found on the west coast of North Sumatra.

In Sibolga, there is a custom of eating together called "Mangan Semeja." Grilled Pacak Fish is placed in the center, and everyone takes their portion using their hands directly (without spoons). This way of eating is believed to enhance the enjoyment because the texture of the thick pacak spice can be directly felt by the sense of touch before entering the mouth.

Culinary Relevance in the Modern Era

Although there are now many modern cooking techniques such as ovens or electric grills, authentic Sibolga Grilled Pacak Fish remains true to its traditional method. Local vendors realize that the main strength of this dish lies in its "smoke and lemongrass." Without the use of coconut shell embers and the patting of lemongrass stalks, the dish loses its soul.

For travelers visiting Sibolga, tasting Grilled Pacak Fish is a cultural obligation. This dish has become the identity of the city, a symbol of the resilience of fishermen and the richness of Indonesian spices. It is not just food to fill the stomach, but a narrative about the long history of spice trade on the Sumatran coast and the warmth of the Sibolga people in welcoming guests.

Conclusion: A Heritage That Must Keep Being "Pacaked"

Preserving the legacy of Grilled Pacak Fish means preserving Sibolga's marine ecosystem and local knowledge about spices. The uniqueness of the "pacak" technique is proof that Indonesian cuisine is built on meticulousness and respect for raw ingredients. Every bite of Grilled Pacak Fish takes us back to the past, to an old pier in Sibolga where the aroma of the sea blends with the fragrance of grilled coconut milk, creating an unforgettable symphony of flavors for anyone who has ever tasted it.

πŸ“‹ Visit Information

address
Berbagai rumah makan di sepanjang Jl. Ahmad Yani, Sibolga
entrance fee
Mulai dari Rp 30.000 per porsi
opening hours
Setiap hari, 10:00 - 22:00

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