Sumbawa's Signature Sepat & Singang
in Sumbawa, Nusa Tenggara Barat
Published: Januari 2025
About
Tracing the Flavors of Sumbawa's Signature Sepat & Singang: Symbols of Identity and Local Wisdom of the Tau Samawa
West Nusa Tenggara is not only home to the exotic charm of the Mandalika Circuit or the grandeur of Mount Rinjani. To the east, precisely on Sumbawa Island, lies a gastronomic heritage that has spanned generations, becoming a cultural identity and a bond for its community. Sepat and Singang are two legendary dishes that are more than just stomach fillers; they are representations of the life philosophy of the Tau Samawa (Sumbawa people) who deeply value natural harmony.
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Historical Roots and Cultural Significance
Historically, Sepat and Singang are rooted in the agrarian and maritime lifestyle of the Sumbawa people. Sumbawa's geographical location, surrounded by a long coastline and rich rivers, makes fish a primary source of protein. Singang and Sepat were born in the traditional kitchens of the Sumbawa Sultanate and spread to remote villages as a way to process fresh catches with spices readily available in their yards.
In local tradition, these two dishes often appear in customary celebrations, such as harvest thanksgiving or wedding ceremonies. However, more profoundly, Sepat and Singang are "home-cooked meals" that possess a magical power to call back those who have migrated. For the people of Sumbawa, consuming these dishes is a ritual to remember their homeland.
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Sepat: A Unique Harmony of Sour and Fresh Flavors
Sepat is a culinary masterpiece that highlights a healthy, oil-free (non-cholesterol) preparation technique. The main characteristic of Sepat lies in its clear yet flavorful broth, dominated by a fresh sour taste and a strong grilled aroma.
Main Ingredients and Secrets of Deliciousness:
The fish used is typically Baronang, Nila, or Gurami. Sepat's uniqueness comes from the use of traditional ingredients that may be rarely found elsewhere:
1. Young Mango or Star Gooseberry (Belimbing Wuluh): As a source of sharp yet clean natural sourness on the palate.
2. Eggplant and Long Beans: Side vegetables that are grilled first.
3. Aru Leaves (Ruku): Imparts a distinctive herbal aroma.
4. Candlenuts and Grilled Shallots: Creates depth of flavor (umami) in the clear broth.
Traditional Preparation Process:
The fish is not fried but grilled over wood embers (usually tamarind or kusambi wood) to achieve a smoky aroma. Spices like shallots, chilies, and candlenuts are also grilled whole. Afterward, these coarse spices are roughly pounded and mixed with warm water. The grilled fish is then added to this broth along with slices of peeled young mango and grilled eggplant. The result is a symphony of spicy, sour, and fresh flavors that instantly awakens the appetite.
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Singang: The Exoticism of Turmeric and Sourness Wrapped in Fresh Fish
While Sepat presents a fresh, clear broth, Singang appears as a dish that is bolder in both visual appeal and taste. Singang is often referred to as "Sumbawa's Pindang," but with more complex characteristics.
Flavor Profile:
Singang has a bright yellow broth derived from fresh turmeric. Its taste is a strong blend of savory, spicy, and sour. The fish used is typically saltwater fish such as Milkfish, Snapper, or Skipjack Tuna.
Ingredients and Cooking Technique:
The ground spices for Singang consist of shallots, garlic, bird's eye chilies, turmeric, and candlenuts. The secret to Singang's deliciousness lies in the use of Young Tamarind boiled with the fish. Additionally, adding basil leaves at the end of the cooking process provides a tantalizing aroma. The cooking technique involves minimal sautéing of spices or even direct boiling to preserve the authentic sweet taste of the saltwater fish.
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Philosophy of Ingredients: Respecting Sumbawa's Nature
The uniqueness of Sepat and Singang lies in their reliance on fresh raw ingredients. In Sumbawa, there is no compromise for fish that is not fresh. The fish must be from the day's catch. This reflects local wisdom in preserving marine ecosystems; the community only takes what they need and honors it by processing it as best as possible.
The use of sourness (whether from mango, star gooseberry, or tamarind) also serves a practical purpose in Sumbawa's generally hot climate. The sour taste acts as a body temperature neutralizer and an appetite stimulant in the scorching weather.
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Local Eating Etiquette and Traditions
Eating Sepat and Singang has unwritten "protocols" in Sumbawa. These dishes are best enjoyed during the day. Typically, Sepat is served in a large bowl, and the most authentic way to eat it is with your hands (nyuap).
There is a unique tradition often practiced when eating Sepat: mixing rice directly into the fresh Sepat broth, then adding prawn crackers (jangek) or emping. Social interaction while eating together from a single tray (ngumung) strengthens family bonds. In legendary eateries in the center of Sumbawa Besar town, you will see officials, farmers, and tourists sitting side-by-side, united by a steaming bowl of Singang.
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Preserving Heritage: Legendary Culinary Destinations
Although many modern variations now exist, some legendary eateries in Sumbawa continue to maintain their ancestral recipes. They refuse to use excessive artificial flavor enhancers and remain faithful to the technique of grilling spices over embers.
Families in Sumbawa usually have their own "secret recipes," especially regarding the ratio of chilies and the type of mango used. The presence of Sepat and Singang has now also spread beyond the island, brought by Sumbawan diaspora to Mataram, Bali, and even Jakarta, making them cultural ambassadors introducing the identity of Tau Samawa to the national stage.
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Conclusion: A Symbol of Cultural Resilience
Sepat and Singang are not just culinary dishes; they are narratives about how the Sumbawa people adapt to their environment. The sharp sour taste symbolizes assertiveness, while the freshness of the broth symbolizes the warmth and sincerity of its people.
For anyone visiting Sumbawa, tasting Sepat and Singang is a must. Without it, your journey to Tanah Samawa cannot be considered complete. Because, in every spoonful of golden-yellow Singang broth and every grilled aroma in Sepat broth, there is a story of the blue sea, the hot sun, and the warm, sincere hearts of the Sumbawa people. This is a heritage that will continue to be preserved, a legend of taste that will never fade with time.
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