Pagatan Weaving Craft Center

Weaving Tradition on the Coast of Tanah Bumbu: An Exploration of the Pagatan Weaving Craft Center

Pusat Kerajinan Tenun Pagatan is more than just a physical building in Tanah Bumbu Regency, South Kalimantan. It is the heart of the identity of the Bugis-Pagatan coastal community that has settled for centuries on Borneo land. As a dynamic cultural center, this place serves as the last bastion of defense and an innovation laboratory for the pride of Banua's textiles, namely Tenun Pagatan.

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Intellectual Heritage in a Thread

Tenun Pagatan possesses a uniqueness that distinguishes it from ikat or songket weaving from other regions in Indonesia. At Pusat Kerajinan Tenun Pagatan, visitors can witness firsthand the "Menenun" (weaving) process using traditional looms called Gedogan or Non-Machine Looms (ATBM). The primary uniqueness of Tenun Pagatan lies in its creation technique, which combines ikat weaving methods with the addition of weft threads (additional weft) to form prominent motifs.

This cultural center specifically preserves established motifs such as Sobbi, Bayam Raja, and Pucuk Rebung. Each motif is not merely an aesthetic decoration but a philosophical representation. The Sobbi motif, for instance, symbolizes high precision and patience because the process of embroidering gold or silver threads is done manually between the warp threads during the weaving process.

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Education and Weaver Regeneration Programs

One of the main pillars of Pusat Kerajinan Tenun Pagatan is its continuous education program. Recognizing the threat of extinction due to a lack of interest from the younger generation, the center organizes a "Weaving School" for teenagers and housewives in the Tanah Bumbu area. This program not only teaches basic weaving techniques but also includes:

1. Introduction to Natural Fibers: Education on the use of high-quality silk and cotton threads.

2. Natural Dyeing Techniques: Workshops utilizing local plants such as ulin wood, soga bark, and indigo plants to produce durable and environmentally friendly earth tones.

3. Contemporary Design: Training for artisans to create new, more modern motifs without abandoning traditional patterns, so that Tenun Pagatan products can compete in the global fashion market.

Through community involvement, the center has succeeded in changing the perception that weaving is a job for the elderly. Now, many young people in Tanah Bumbu are proud to be "Weaving Ambassadors" and actively promote their work through digital media.

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Center for Activities and Art Performances

As a cultural center, this location is not limited to craft activities. Every weekend, the courtyard area often becomes a practice space for local art groups. Panting music performances and traditional dances are frequently staged to welcome visiting tourists. The synergy between performing arts and handicrafts creates a vibrant cultural ecosystem.

Visitors do not just come to buy fabric but are also given the opportunity to try sitting at a loom. This sensory experience—hearing the clashing of wood, touching the texture of the threads, and seeing the precision of the weaver's hands—provides a deep understanding of the value of an artwork that cannot be replaced by factory machines.

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Role in the Mappanre Ri Tasi Festival

Pusat Kerajinan Tenun Pagatan plays a vital role in the annual Mappanre Ri Tasi (Sea Feast) celebration. This festival is the largest cultural event in Tanah Bumbu, a form of gratitude for the sea's bounty. During the festival, this craft center becomes the main textile exhibition hub.

During this festival, fashion parades featuring Tenun Pagatan showcase the best works of the fostered artisans. This proves that Tenun Pagatan is an integral part of the community's cultural rituals. The fabrics produced here are used in various traditional ceremonies, from births and weddings to rituals for warding off misfortune.

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Preservation and Material Innovation

Sustainability is a serious concern at Pusat Kerajinan Tenun Pagatan. The center actively conducts research on local raw materials. One of the innovations developed is the use of Kalimantan forest waste as a dyeing material. Additionally, the center also encourages the use of locally produced silk threads to reduce dependence on imported materials.

Preservation efforts are also carried out through digital documentation. The center archives thousands of ancient motifs stored in old fabrics belonging to traditional elders. These nearly extinct motifs are redrawn digitally and taught again to young weavers so that these historical patterns are not lost to time.

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Strategic Role in Local Cultural Development

Sociopolitically, Pusat Kerajinan Tenun Pagatan is the driving force of the creative economy in Tanah Bumbu Regency. The local government uses this center as a primary reference for developing culture-based tourism. With the existence of this center, Tenun Pagatan has successfully achieved recognition as Intangible Cultural Heritage (WBTb) of Indonesia.

More than just an economic commodity, weaving here functions as a unifier. Although its cultural roots originate from the Bugis ethnic group, in its development, Tenun Pagatan has absorbed local Banjar and Dayak elements, reflecting the harmonious pluralism of South Kalimantan society. This craft center serves as a public space where various segments of society interact and share knowledge.

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Towards the Future: A Global Cultural Destination

The future vision of Pusat Kerajinan Tenun Pagatan is to make Tanah Bumbu an "International Weaving City." Development plans include the construction of interactive galleries and mini-museums that tell the story of migration and the evolution of weaving on the Pagatan coast.

With the active involvement of national designers who are beginning to notice Tenun Pagatan for their collections, this craft center continues to improve. Fabric quality standardization is strictly maintained so that every piece of fabric leaving this center has a strong cultural narrative and undeniable quality.

Pusat Kerajinan Tenun Pagatan is tangible proof that tradition does not have to be static. It can grow, adapt, and provide livelihoods for its people without losing its identity. Amidst the strong currents of modernization, the sound of the loom's wood striking continues to echo loudly at this cultural center, signifying that the pulse of Tanah Bumbu's culture is still beating strongly, weaving the past into a glorious future.