Akau Potong Lembu
in Tanjungpinang, Kepulauan Riau
Published: Januari 2025
About
Historical Roots and the Philosophy Behind the Name
The name "Akau Potong Lembu" holds a layered history. "Akau" actually refers to a pioneering figure, the late Akau, who began selling coffee and snacks in the area in the 1960s. Meanwhile, "Potong Lembu" is the name of the street and area that was once the center of the cattle slaughterhouse.
As time went by, this place transformed from a mere roadside coffee stall into an open-air food court (pusat jajanan serba ada) accommodating dozens of vendors. Akau's existence is not just about satisfying hunger, but a symbol of cultural assimilation between the Chinese ethnic groups (Teochew and Hokkien) and the local Malay community. It is here that social interactions flow freely over simple wooden tables.
Atmosphere and Dinner Rituals
Akau Potong Lembu only begins to stir as the sun sets. As dusk arrives, rows of food carts are neatly arranged, and neon lights illuminate the spacious open area. The lively sounds of chefs clanging spatulas against cast-iron woks become the accompanying music for visitors.
The dining culture here is very communal. Visitors arrive in groups, find empty tables in the middle of the square, and then disperse to order various dishes from different carts. One of Akau's unique features is its traditional payment system; you order, the food is delivered, and you pay directly to the vendor upon the dishes' arrival at your table.
Iconic Dishes and Akau's Kitchen Secrets
Akau Potong Lembu is a paradise for street food lovers with five-star restaurant quality taste. Several dishes have become legendary due to their recipes being passed down through generations of vendors' families.
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1. Gonggong: Riau Islands' Signature Sea Snails
Gonggong is the star of Akau. These endemic sea snails are boiled with salt and ginger to eliminate any fishy odor. The way to enjoy them is unique; the snail meat is pulled out of its shell using a toothpick, then dipped into a signature spicy and sour peanut sauce. The texture is chewy and savory, holding the pure taste of the sea.
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2. Mie Lendir: The Wonder of Peanut Gravy
Despite its unique name, Mie Lendir, originally a breakfast dish, has transformed into a favorite evening meal at Akau. It consists of yellow noodles served with a thick brown gravy made from peanuts, sweet potatoes, and spices. The blend of sweet and savory flavors, along with sliced bird's eye chilies and boiled eggs, provides a warm sensation in the throat.
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3. Siput Isap (Luti Gendang and Seafood Dishes)
Besides gonggong, siput isap cooked with tauco seasoning or spicy sauce is also highly sought after. The cooking technique involves cutting off the tip of the shell so that the seasoning can penetrate inside and make it easier for visitors to "suck" the meat out. This is a dining art that requires patience and a specific technique.
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4. Fried Kwetiau and Orh Jian (Oyster Omelet)
Kwetiau at Akau is cooked using the Wok Hei (breath of the wok) technique, where high heat touches the wok's surface, imparting a distinctive smoky aroma. Orh Jian, or oyster omelet, here uses fresh oysters mixed with tapioca flour batter and eggs, resulting in a crispy edge with a chewy center.
Traditional Cooking Techniques and the Legacy of Taste
One of the reasons why the taste of food at Akau is difficult to replicate elsewhere is the use of traditional cooking equipment. Many vendors still use charcoal for grilling or frying. The use of charcoal provides a stable high temperature and a smoky aroma that cannot be produced by modern gas stoves.
The recipes used are generally unwritten family recipes. Seasoning proportions are done based on instinct and decades of experience. For example, in making peanut sauce for satay or mie lendir, peanuts are manually roasted to ensure their natural oils are perfectly released without a burnt taste.
Kopi Akau: The Soul of a Legend
One must not forget Kedai Kopi Akau, which was the origin of this area. The coffee served is a typical local black coffee (Kopi O) brewed using a long cloth filter or "sock." The coffee beans are usually roasted with butter and sugar (torrefacto), producing a strong bitter taste with a rich caramel aroma. Enjoying this coffee while having toast with homemade srikaya jam is a mandatory ritual for loyal visitors.
Cultural Context and Sustainability
Akau Potong Lembu is a true representation of the "Bhinneka Tunggal Ika" (Unity in Diversity) concept at a local level. Here, Muslim and non-Muslim vendors sell side-by-side harmoniously. Although many seafood and noodle dishes are available, vendors are very mindful of local sensitivities regarding halal food, ensuring visitors have many safe and clear options.
The Tanjungpinang City government recently revitalized the Akau Potong Lembu area to improve comfort, such as upgrading drainage, arranging tables, and installing protective roofing in some areas to shield visitors from rain. However, the essence of "eating by the roadside" has been maintained so that its historical value is not lost.
Why Akau is Irreplaceable?
Amidst the onslaught of modern cafes and shopping malls, Akau Potong Lembu remains standing strong. Its strength lies in the collective memory of the community. For Tanjungpinang residents who have migrated, Akau is the first place they visit upon returning home. There is a longing that is soothed with every bite of noodles or sip of coffee under the dim streetlights.
Akau is not just about the quality of fresh ingredients—sourced directly from the rich waters of the Riau Islands—but also about the dedication of its vendors. Many of them are second or third generation continuing their parents' businesses, ensuring the fire in the wok remains lit and the taste remains consistent as when Akau first opened its doors.
A Closing for Travelers
For tourists visiting Tanjungpinang, Akau Potong Lembu offers a complete sensory experience. The noisy clatter of woks, the steam carrying the aroma of fried garlic, and the laughter of locals create a soul-warming symphony. This is a place where history can be tasted, and culture can be felt through a piece of fresh seafood. Akau Potong Lembu is not just a culinary destination; it is the beating heart of Tanjungpinang, serving deliciousness that transcends time.
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