Apam Barabai

Historical Traces and Philosophy Behind the Softness

The origin of Apam Barabai cannot be separated from the long history of the Banjar people in Hulu Sungai. It is said that this delicacy has existed since the Banjar Sultanate era and was a special dish for traditional and religious events. The name "Apam" itself is believed to be rooted in the Arabic word "Afwan," meaning forgiveness. This refers to the local tradition of often serving apam in communal prayer rituals (selamatan) as a symbol of seeking forgiveness and gratitude to the Creator.

Culturally, Apam Barabai represents the friendly and humble character of the Hulu Sungai Tengah people. Its very soft and thin texture symbolizes gentleness of heart, while its consistent sweet taste depicts steadfastness in preserving tradition. In Barabai, the skill of making apam is often passed down through maternal lines, keeping its secret recipes preserved within families for decades.

Unique Ingredients: Harmony of Rice Flour and Palm Sugar

What distinguishes Apam Barabai from other types of apam in the Nusantara? The answer lies in the specificity of its raw materials and the precision of its composition. The main ingredient is high-quality rice flour, but not just any instant flour. Local communities usually use "Unus" rice or a local Kalimantan rice variety that has the right texture characteristics—not too sticky but not too dry.

Two other key elements are fermented cassava (tape singkong) and sugar. There are two main flavor variants that are the gold standard for Apam Barabai:

1. Apam Putih (White Apam): Uses granulated sugar, resulting in a clean white color with an elegant and light sweet taste.

2. Apam Cokelat (Chocolate Apam): Uses authentic palm sugar (gula merah) from the Meratus Mountains. The use of palm sugar provides a deep caramel flavor dimension and a distinctive smoky aroma.

The use of fermented cassava acts as a natural leavening agent. The fermentation process that occurs from the interaction between the fermented cassava and rice flour creates micro air pockets, giving it a very elastic and soft texture, remaining fluffy even when cold.

Kitchen Secrets: Traditional Steaming Techniques

The process of making Apam Barabai is an art form that requires patience. The first stage begins with making a liquid batter consisting of rice flour, water, and finely mashed fermented cassava. This batter is then left to ferment for several hours until small bubbles appear, indicating that the natural yeast has worked.

The technical uniqueness lies in the steaming method. Unlike apam from other regions which are usually thick, Apam Barabai is made very thinly. The batter is poured onto a very wide but shallow round pan. The steamer is also traditional, using a large copper or aluminum steamer placed over a wood-fired stove. The use of firewood is believed to impart a more delicious aroma than a gas stove.

After cooking, the apam is not served immediately. There is a special technique for releasing the apam from the pan so it doesn't tear, given its very thin and chewy texture. These apam sheets are then stacked and usually lined with banana leaves. Banana leaves not only serve as a base but also provide a fresh aroma that complements the fragrance of palm sugar and fermented cassava.

Legendary Destinations: Roadside Stalls

If you drive along the Trans Kalimantan Road heading north, you will be greeted by rows of wooden kiosks with hanging banana leaf parcels along the Barabai area. One of the most legendary spots is in the Bukat area or around the Keramat Barabai Terminal.

Although there are many home producers, names like Apam Barabai Ibu Hj. Siti Arpah or family stalls that have been established since the 1970s are the main references. In these places, you can witness the packaging process, which is still very traditional. Apam is sold in packages containing several sheets, neatly wrapped in banana leaves and tied with raffia string or lidi (small sticks). The authentic taste is preserved because they refuse to use artificial preservatives; authentic Apam Barabai usually only lasts for 2 to 3 days, a testament to freshness being the top priority.

The Culture of Enjoying Apam: More Than Just a Snack

In Hulu Sungai Tengah, enjoying Apam Barabai has its own etiquette. The best time to savor it is in the morning as a companion to bitter tea or coffee. The contrast between the bitterness of the coffee and the rich sweetness of the apam creates a perfect symphony of flavors on the palate.

In a social context, Apam Barabai is a mandatory "oleh-oleh" (souvenir). A visit to Barabai is not complete without bringing home a package of apam for relatives. This creates a strong micro-economic ecosystem for the local community. Even in traditional markets like Pasar Keramat, Apam Barabai is a commodity that drives the economy of palm sugar craftsmen in the mountains and rice farmers in the lowlands.

Challenges and Preservation in the Modern Era

Amidst the onslaught of modern and contemporary culinary trends, Apam Barabai stands tall. Its secret lies in the consistent taste that has remained unchanged for decades. The craftsmen remain loyal to using authentic Meratus palm sugar despite its fluctuating price, because they know that replacing it with artificial sweeteners would damage the "legendary" reputation built over centuries.

Innovations have begun to emerge in packaging to facilitate long-distance shipping, but the physical form of the thin, round apam remains preserved. The Hulu Sungai Tengah Regency government also frequently features Apam Barabai as a main menu item in cultural festivals, ensuring that younger generations continue to know and love their culinary heritage.

Conclusion: An Identity in a Sheet of Apam

Apam Barabai is tangible proof of how a simple food can encapsulate the identity of a region. It carries the aroma of Kalimantan's soil, the sweetness of Meratus palm sugar, and the sincerity of the Barabai people in a single bite. Visiting Barabai and tasting its apam is a sensory journey—touching its chewy texture, inhaling the warm aroma of banana leaves, and feeling the sweetness melt in your mouth.

For anyone seeking authentic flavors in South Kalimantan, Apam Barabai is not just an option, but a must. It is a heritage that continues to breathe amidst modernity, a pride of Hulu Sungai Tengah that will be sweetly remembered by all who have tasted it.