Hulu Sungai Tengah

History

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History and Development of Hulu Sungai Tengah: The Heart of Banua Enam

Hulu Sungai Tengah (HST), with its capital Barabai, is a region geographically located in the heart of South Kalimantan Province. With an area of 1,462.96 km², this regency does not have a coastline and is surrounded by five neighboring regions: Hulu Sungai Utara, Balangan, Kotabaru, Banjar, and Hulu Sungai Selatan. Historically, its existence was an important pillar in the "Banua Enam" confederation.

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Historical Roots and the Sultanate Era

Long before modern administrative divisions, the Hulu Sungai Tengah region was an integral part of the Banjar Sultanate. This area was known as "Batang Alai" and "Laba Amas," which were vital centers for inland agriculture and trade. The lives of its people were centered along the river flows, such as the Alai River and the Barabai River, which served as the arteries of transportation and economy. During this period, the social structure was led by local nobles loyal to the Banjar Sultan in Martapura.

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Colonial Era and People's Resistance

Entering the 19th century, Hulu Sungai Tengah became a fierce battleground during the Banjar War (1859–1905). One of the most respected national heroes here is Prince Antasari, who was assisted by local figures like Penghulu Rasyid. Penghulu Rasyid led the people's resistance in the Banua Lima region (now encompassing HST) against Dutch hegemony. He fell as a martyr in Telaga Langsat Village in 1865. This spirit of resistance proved that HST was a formidable guerrilla defense base due to its geographical conditions, which combined swamps and the Meratus Mountains.

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Independence Era and Regency Formation

After the proclamation of Indonesian independence, this region became part of the Banjar Region. Through the demands of the people who desired broader autonomy, the Regency of Hulu Sungai Tengah was officially established on December 24, 1959, based on Law Number 27 of 1959. Barabai was chosen as the center of government due to its strategic position in the middle of the trans-Kalimantan route.

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Cultural Heritage and Historical Sites

Hulu Sungai Tengah possesses a unique cultural richness, such as the Madihin tradition and Dayak Meratus dances in Hantakan District. One prominent historical site is the Keramat Mosque in Pelajau Village, which is said to have stood for hundreds of years and serves as a symbol of the spread of Islam in the upstream river region. Additionally, there is the Proclamation Monument in Mandingin, which marks the loyalty of the Barabai people to the Republic of Indonesia during the physical revolution.

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Modern Development and Environmental Preservation

In its modern history, HST is known for its strong commitment to preserving the Meratus Mountains ecosystem. Through the "Save Meratus" movement, the community and local government consistently reject coal mining and large-scale palm oil plantations to protect forests and water sources. This makes HST the only regency in South Kalimantan that prioritizes sustainable environmental development, maintaining its history as the "Lungs of South Kalimantan." Today, Barabai is developing into a service and education city nicknamed "Paris van Borneo" due to its neat and green urban planning.

Geography

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Geographical Profile of Hulu Sungai Tengah Regency

Hulu Sungai Tengah Regency (HST) is an administrative region in South Kalimantan Province with unique geographical characteristics due to its highly contrasting natural landscape. With an area of 1462.96 km², this regency is strategically and administratively located in the "center" of the province's constellation. Astronomically, this region lies between 2°27′ and 2°46′ South Latitude and 115°10′ and 115°46′ East Longitude. As a landlocked region, Hulu Sungai Tengah has land borders with five neighboring territories: Balangan Regency to the north, Hulu Sungai Selatan Regency to the south and west, and Kotabaru Regency to the east.

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Topography and Landscape

The topography of Hulu Sungai Tengah is divided into two extreme zones. In the western part, the region is dominated by flat lowlands, swamps, and fertile river basins. Conversely, in the eastern part, the landscape changes drastically into a series of very steep mountains. This is where the Meratus Mountains are located, with the highest peak in this region being Mount Halau-Halau (1,901 masl). Narrow valleys at the foot of the Meratus Mountains create dramatic scenery that separates residential areas from primary rainforests.

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Hydrology and River Flows

As part of the Barito River Basin (DAS), this regency is bisected by several important rivers, with the Barabai River being the main artery. These rivers originate from clear springs in the Meratus Mountains, but upon reaching the lowlands, their flow slows down and forms a swampy ecosystem. The existence of these rivers is crucial for agricultural irrigation in the Barabai area and its surroundings.

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Climate and Seasonal Variations

Hulu Sungai Tengah has a tropical wet climate with high rainfall throughout the year. The dry season usually occurs between June and September, while the rainy season lasts from October to May. Air temperatures in the lowlands range from 24°C to 33°C, but in the highlands like Hantakan District, temperatures can drop drastically, creating a cool and humid microclimate.

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Natural Resources and Biodiversity

This region is known for its strong commitment to environmental conservation through the "Save Meratus" movement. Unlike its neighboring regencies, HST rejects coal mining and large-scale palm oil plantations. Its main resources come from paddy field agriculture, smallholder rubber plantations, and local commodities such as peanuts and oranges. The Meratus forests in HST are home to rare flora and endemic fauna such as Proboscis Monkeys, Gibbons, and various types of forest birds. This ecological wealth makes Hulu Sungai Tengah the last bastion of biodiversity in South Kalimantan that remains protected from extractive industrial exploitation.

Culture

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Cultural Richness of Hulu Sungai Tengah: The Heart of Banjar Hulu Traditions

Hulu Sungai Tengah Regency (HST), with its capital in Barabai, is a region in South Kalimantan nicknamed the "Agribusiness Hub" and the last bastion of the Meratus Mountains. Located in the central part of the province without a coastline, HST preserves the rich culture of the Banjar Pahuluan people, a blend of Islamic values and the wisdom of the indigenous Dayak Meratus community.

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Traditions, Ceremonies, and Beliefs

One of HST's unique features is the harmony between the agrarian communities in the lowlands and the Dayak communities in the mountains. In the Meratus Mountains region, the Aruh Baharin ceremony takes place, a ritual of gratitude for the rice harvest involving the process of offering sacrifices to ancestors. Meanwhile, among the Banjar community, the Baayun Maulud tradition in Banua Halat Village is an iconic cultural phenomenon. Thousands of people gather to swing babies to adults in cradles decorated with palm leaves, accompanied by the recitation of poems praising the Prophet Muhammad SAW.

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Arts and Performing Arts

HST is home to Mamanda, a traditional Banjar theater that emphasizes improvisation and situational comedy. Additionally, there is the Kuda Gepang art, a dance that uses horse replicas made of woven bamboo, often performed at welcoming events or weddings. In terms of music, the beat of Terbang Kuripan and the art of Madihin (humorously sung oral poetry) remain active in traditional markets and community celebrations as a means of entertainment and da'wah (religious preaching).

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Barabai's Signature Cuisine

Talking about HST is incomplete without mentioning Apam Barabai. This cake made from rice flour and brown sugar has a thin, chewy texture and a sweet, rich taste, usually wrapped in banana leaves. Besides that, there is Pakasam, a fermented freshwater fish dish (such as snakehead or gourami) using salt and roasted rice (samu). Pakasam Barabai is known for its distinctive sour-savory taste and is a primary souvenir for tourists.

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Language and Dialect

The local community uses the Banjar language, Hulu dialect. This dialect is characterized by a firmer intonation and the use of vocabulary different from the Banjar Kuala (Banjarmasin) dialect. Some common local expressions include the word "aik" as a sentence intensifier or the use of personal pronouns that are very specific based on social strata and familiarity, reflecting high values of politeness.

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Textiles and Traditional Clothing

The people of HST highly value Sasirangan fabric, but what distinguishes it are the motifs inspired by the Meratus Mountains nature and local plants. In traditional ceremonies, men often wear Laung (traditional headwear), while women wear long kebaya with sarong skirts. In the mountainous regions, rattan and bamboo weaving crafts such as Tanggui (wide hat) and Lanjung (back carrier) are an inseparable part of the local community's visual identity.

Through this diversity, Hulu Sungai Tengah proves itself to be a strong cultural axis, where the preservation of Meratus nature and religious values blend in the harmony of daily life.

Tourism

Exploring the Charm of Hulu Sungai Tengah: South Kalimantan's Green Heart

Hulu Sungai Tengah (HST), with its capital Barabai, is a hidden gem in South Kalimantan that offers a perfect combination of the grandeur of the Meratus Mountains and strong local wisdom. With an area of 1462.96 km², this regency has no coastline, but its land-based natural wealth makes it a leading ecotourism destination in Borneo.

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The Grandeur of the Meratus Mountains Nature

HST's main attraction lies in its mountainous landscape. Puncak Valiant and Mount Halau-Halau are the highest points in South Kalimantan, offering "sea of clouds" views. For water lovers, the Loksado of HST can be found at Pagat Batantakan. Here, tourists can enjoy the clear river water flowing between exotic limestone cliffs. Additionally, Rampah Menjangan Waterfall offers the freshness of falling water amidst a pristine primary forest.

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Cultural Tourism and Unique Experiences

The Banjar and Dayak Meratus communities live harmoniously here. Tourists can visit the Balai Adat Dayak in the Hantakan area to see traditional architecture and ceremonies like Aruh Ganal (harvest festival). One unique experience not to be missed is exploring small canals in riverbank villages by traditional boat, providing a real perspective on the authentic riverine community life.

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Adventure and Outdoor Activities

For adrenaline seekers, Bamboo Rafting on the Barabai River offers the thrill of navigating mild rapids on a traditional bamboo raft. Furthermore, trekking to natural caves like Gua Limbuhang, which features sapphire-blue water, is a must-do activity for photographers and nature lovers. The trekking routes in HST are known to be challenging but offer immeasurable satisfaction upon reaching the lush peaks of Meratus.

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Gastronomy: The Taste of Barabai

Hulu Sungai Tengah is a paradise for culinary enthusiasts. You must try Apam Barabai, a traditional cake made from rice flour and brown sugar with a soft texture and distinctive aroma. Don't miss Pakasam, a fermented river fish dish with roasted rice that offers a unique sour-savory taste sensation, and the sweet and rich Kue Lam, a culinary heritage passed down through generations.

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Accommodation and Best Time to Visit

The people of HST are known for their warm hospitality. In Barabai, various affordable hotels and comfortable guesthouses are available. However, for a more immersive experience with nature, many tourists opt for homestays in tourist villages or camping at the foot of the mountains.

The best time to visit is during the dry season (May to September) to facilitate hiking and river activities. If you want to experience cultural festivities, come during the rice harvest season when various local festivals are often held.

Economy

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Economic Profile of Hulu Sungai Tengah Regency: South Kalimantan's Agrarian Heart

Hulu Sungai Tengah Regency (HST), with its capital in Barabai, is a strategic area of 1,462.96 km² located in the central position of South Kalimantan Province. As a completely landlocked region bordering five territories—namely Balangan Regency, Hulu Sungai Utara, Hulu Sungai Selatan, and Paser and Kotabaru Regencies to the east—HST has a unique and independent economic characteristic.

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Agriculture Sector and Food Security

The agricultural sector is the main backbone of HST's economy. This region is known as one of the largest rice granaries in South Kalimantan. Unlike its neighboring areas that are shifting to large-scale palm oil plantations, HST maintains its commitment to sustainable agriculture. Other superior products include horticulture, especially Hantakan bird's eye chili and local oranges. Furthermore, the inland fisheries sector is developing rapidly in the swampy areas, producing local fish such as snakehead (haruan) and gourami, which are commodities for inter-regency trade.

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Creative Industry and Traditional Crafts

The industrial sector in HST is dominated by small and medium-scale processing industries (IKM). One prominent creative economy icon is the bamboo and purun weaving craft in rural areas. Signature culinary products like Apam Barabai and Kacang Jaruk are not just traditional snacks but drivers of the people's economy, absorbing thousands of local workers and becoming the region's export identity to other Kalimantan regions.

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Nature-Based Tourism (Eco-Tourism)

Without a coastal area, HST maximizes the potential of the Meratus Mountains as a new economic driver. Destinations like Pagat Batuan, Manggasang, and Swargaloka Valley in Hantakan have created a tourism service ecosystem that revitalizes MSMEs, accommodation, and guide services. HST's economic uniqueness lies in the "Save Meratus" movement, where the community and local government agree to reject coal mining and large-scale palm oil plantations to preserve the environment as a long-term economic asset.

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Infrastructure, Trade, and Employment

Barabai city functions as a regional service and trade center for the "Banua Anam" region. The highway infrastructure that bisects the regency center is the main artery for logistics distribution between Banjarmasin and East Kalimantan. Employment trends show a gradual shift from traditional agriculture to the service and trade sectors, along with increasing digitalization of local markets. The growth of traditional markets that remain active amidst modernization is proof of Hulu Sungai Tengah's domestic economic resilience in facing global economic fluctuations.

Demographics

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Demographic Profile of Hulu Sungai Tengah Regency

Hulu Sungai Tengah Regency (HST), often nicknamed "Bumi Murakata," is an inland region in South Kalimantan with an area of 1,462.96 km². As a non-coastal area located centrally and bordering five regencies (Hulu Sungai Selatan, Hulu Sungai Utara, Balangan, Kotabaru, and Paser), HST has unique demographic characteristics as a transit hub and agrarian center.

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Population and Population Distribution

Based on the latest data, the population of Hulu Sungai Tengah reaches over 260,000 people. With an average population density of 178 people/km², the population distribution is concentrated in the lowland areas, especially in Barabai District, which serves as the administrative and economic center. The uniqueness of this distribution is evident in the contrast between the densely populated urban area of Barabai and the Meratus Mountains region in Hantakan and Batang Alai Timur Districts, which have very low densities.

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Ethnic Composition and Cultural Diversity

The demography of HST is significantly dominated by the Banjar ethnic group, particularly the Banjar Hulu sub-ethnic group with its distinctive dialect. However, there is striking diversity in the highlands (Meratus Mountains) inhabited by the Dayak Meratus people. The interaction between the predominantly Muslim Banjar community and the Dayak community creates a harmonious social structure. Additionally, there is a small population of transmigrants from Java and Madura who have assimilated into the agricultural sector.

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Age Structure and Education

HST's population pyramid shows an expansive to stationary structure, where the productive age group (15-64 years) dominates the population structure. This provides a "demographic bonus" potential for the region. In terms of education, HST has a high literacy rate, exceeding 98%. The presence of traditional Islamic boarding schools (pesantren), especially in areas like Batu Benawa, plays a significant role in shaping the religious literacy and character education of the local community.

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Urbanization and Migration Patterns

Urbanization patterns in HST tend to be "rurban," where the boundaries between villages and cities are blurring due to good transportation accessibility. Out-migration is usually driven by educational factors, with many young people from HST migrating to Banjarmasin or other islands for higher education. Conversely, in-migration is seasonal, related to the trade sector in Barabai's traditional markets, which serve as an economic magnet for the five neighboring regencies. A characteristic feature of its population is strong economic independence in the rubber plantation and wet-field agriculture sectors.