Roti Ketawa and Ganda Kaya Jam

Roti Ketawa: A Symbol of Happiness from its Cracking Texture

Roti Ketawa is a signature snack from Pematangsiantar that visually resembles onde-onde (a type of glutinous rice ball), but possesses a very different textural characteristic. The name "Ketawa" (meaning "laugh" in Indonesian) is given because the bread cracks or splits open on four sides when fried, resembling a wide open laughing mouth. Technically, this cracking phenomenon occurs due to the dense dough composition meeting the right hot oil temperature, creating a mechanical expansion on the bread's surface.

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Ingredients and Textural Secrets

The uniqueness of Roti Ketawa lies in the contrast between its extremely crispy exterior and its dense yet crumbly interior. Its main ingredients consist of medium-protein wheat flour, granulated sugar, eggs, margarine, and a little baking soda as a leavening agent that triggers the characteristic cracks. The entire surface of the bread is coated with white sesame seeds, which impart a strong nutty aroma after frying.

Its preparation requires precision. The dough should not be kneaded too much to prevent it from becoming tough like regular bread. After being shaped into a ball, the dough is usually slightly slit on top to guide the direction of the cracks. Frying is done using the deep-frying technique with stable medium heat. If the heat is too high, the exterior will burn before the bread has a chance to "laugh," but if it's too low, the bread will absorb too much oil and lose its crispiness.

In Pematangsiantar, Roti Ketawa is available in two sizes: large (about the size of a child's fist) and mini, which can be eaten in one bite. The mini version is now a favorite among tourists because it is more practical to consume as a snack on the go.

Ganda Kaya Jam: A Legend from Jalan Sutomo

Talking about Pematangsiantar would be incomplete without mentioning Toko Roti Ganda (Ganda Bakery). Established in 1979 on Jalan Sutomo, this shop has become a pilgrimage site for authentic kaya jam hunters. The name "Ganda" itself has a philosophy of abundance and sustainability. This shop is not just a bakery, but a guardian of a secret kaya jam recipe whose texture and taste are difficult for other producers to replicate.

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The Specialty of Ganda Kaya Jam

Unlike most fruit jams, Ganda Kaya Jam contains no srikaya fruit at all. The name "srikaya" refers to its rich texture and luxurious golden-yellow color. Its basic ingredients are very simple but require premium quality: thick coconut milk, free-range chicken egg yolks, and granulated sugar.

The excellence of Ganda Jam lies in its natural fragrant aroma without the addition of chemical essences. This aroma is achieved through the use of fresh pandan leaves cooked with the jam mixture for a very long time using the double boiling technique. Constant stirring for hours results in a very silky, thick texture that doesn't easily become watery. Its taste is sweet and rich with a dominant savory hint from the coconut milk, creating a perfect balance of flavors on the palate.

Ganda White Bread: The Perfect Medium for the Jam

This legendary kaya jam is always paired with Ganda White Bread. Unlike light and airy factory-produced white bread, Ganda White Bread has a denser, softer texture and a distinctive yeasty aroma. At the original shop, visitors can witness the staff slicing a giant loaf of white bread lengthwise and then generously spreading kaya jam in the middle.

A unique tradition at Toko Ganda is the use of chocolate sprinkles as an alternative or accompaniment to kaya jam. The combination of white bread spread with sweet white cream and generously sprinkled with chocolate sprinkles is a no less popular variant. However, it is still the kaya spread that is the main reason why people are willing to queue long lines, filling the sidewalks of Jalan Sutomo.

Cultural Context and Siantar's Culinary Tradition

The existence of Roti Ketawa and Ganda Kaya Jam reflects the cultural diversity of Pematangsiantar. Roti Ketawa is believed to have influences from Chinese cuisine that have adapted to local tastes. Meanwhile, kaya jam is an important element in the breakfast tradition of the Malay and Peranakan communities in North Sumatra, usually enjoyed with black coffee (Kopi Sidikalang).

In Siantar, enjoying Roti Ketawa or Roti Srikaya is not just an eating activity, but a social ritual. Roti Ketawa often becomes a loyal companion during conversations at coffee shops (lapak) while waiting for the afternoon. Its long shelf life (up to 2-3 weeks without preservatives) makes it a mandatory souvenir, symbolizing a typical gift from "The Most Tolerant City" in Indonesia.

Preserving Heritage and Authenticity

Although many modern bakeries and factory-packaged kaya jams have emerged, Roti Ketawa and Ganda Kaya Jam in Pematangsiantar continue to maintain traditional techniques. The use of firewood or classic ovens in some home-scale Roti Ketawa production houses is still maintained to ensure consistent flavor. Similarly, Toko Ganda chooses not to open branches outside the city to maintain quality control and the exclusivity of flavors that can only be found in Siantar.

The Ganda family of owners has passed down through generations the secret ratio of coconut milk to eggs to prevent the jam from having a fishy smell. Precision in selecting coconuts that are neither too old nor too young is key to the consistent savory taste that cannot be replaced by instant coconut milk.

Conclusion: More Than Just Flavor

Roti Ketawa and Ganda Kaya Jam are two culinary poles that unite Pematangsiantar. One offers crispiness and joy through its cracking shape, while the other offers softness and luxurious flavor through a family heirloom recipe. Visiting Pematangsiantar without tasting both is a great loss.

For travelers, the aroma of toasted sesame from Roti Ketawa and the sweetness of Ganda Kaya Jam will always be a sensory memory that brings them back to the corners of Siantar city. This cuisine is not just about satisfying hunger, but about appreciating history, the perseverance of food artisans, and the rich culinary tradition of North Sumatra that stands strong against time. In every bite of Roti Ketawa and every spread of Ganda Jam, there is a story of a friendly city and an eternal flavor legacy.