Bubur Paddas Sambas

Tracing the Flavors of Bubur Paddas Sambas: A Culinary Masterpiece from the West Kalimantan Coast

Sambas Regency in West Kalimantan is not only known for its magnificent songket woven fabrics or the glory of the Alwatzikoebillah Sultanate, but also through its iconic gastronomic richness. At the pinnacle of this local culinary pyramid sits Bubur Paddas Sambas. Far from being just a hunger-quencher, Bubur Paddas is a manifestation of culture, history, and local ingenuity in transforming local produce into a timeless symphony of flavors.

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The Philosophy Behind the Name and Origin

The name "Bubur Paddas" often causes misunderstanding for people outside West Kalimantan. In the Sambas Malay dialect, the word "Paddas" is not a synonym for the spiciness of chili (spicy), but rather a metaphor for the diversity of spices, vegetables, and herbs mixed into one vessel. Philosophically, this word refers to a "crowded" or "rich" flavor.

Historically, Bubur Paddas originated from the wisdom of the Sambas people in facing difficult times, especially during lean seasons or periods of occupation. At that time, the availability of rice was very limited. To meet the family's food needs, people mixed a little rice with various types of wild vegetables that grew in their yards and forests, as well as tubers. Over time, this survival recipe evolved into a special dish served at traditional ceremonies, to welcome honored guests, and even became a mandatory menu item for breaking the fast.

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Main Ingredients and Kitchen Secrets: The "Kerisik"

The main uniqueness that distinguishes Bubur Paddas Sambas from other types of porridge in Indonesia lies in the processing of the rice. The rice is not boiled directly with water, but rather washed clean, dry-roasted (without oil) until browned, then finely pounded or ground. This roasting process gives a distinctive smoky aroma and a granular texture that doesn't break down into a smooth porridge, but retains a slight grittiness.

The second crucial ingredient is grated coconut, which is also roasted until browned and oily, then finely pounded into a paste called "kerisik". The combination of roasted rice and kerisik gives the porridge its distinctive dark brown color and a deep savory flavor to the broth.

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Vegetable Composition: An Abundant Green Symphony

Bubur Paddas Sambas is known as one of the healthiest dishes due to its very high fiber content. Not sparingly, an authentic portion can contain more than ten types of vegetables. Mandatory vegetables that must be included are:

• Water Spinach and Spinach: As the base of green vegetables.
• Vietnamese Coriander (Daun Kesum): This is the soul of Bubur Paddas. Vietnamese coriander provides a sharp aromatic scent and a slightly bitter, refreshing taste, which is not found in other regional cuisines.
• Turmeric Leaves: Finely sliced to add an aromatic dimension.
• Fern Shoots (Pakis): Provide a unique crunchy texture.
• Corn Kernels, Carrots, and Sweet Potatoes: Add natural sweetness and textural variety.
• Long Beans and Bamboo Shoots: Provide richness in fiber.

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Traditional Cooking Process

Cooking Bubur Paddas is a ritual of patience. First, the finely ground spices consisting of shallots, garlic, white pepper, and ginger are sautéed until fragrant. Water is boiled, then the roasted rice is added. After the rice begins to swell, the spices and kerisik are added.

One by one, the vegetables are added based on their hardness; starting with tubers, then legumes, and finally leafy vegetables like Vietnamese coriander and fern shoots so that their color remains fresh green. The traditional cooking technique using clay pots over a wood-fired stove is still maintained by some families in Sambas to preserve the consistency of the smoky aroma that cannot be obtained from a gas stove.

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Serving Traditions and Accompaniments

Savoring Bubur Paddas Sambas is a complete sensory experience. This porridge is never served alone. On top of the steaming bowl, two main complementary ingredients must be sprinkled: fried peanuts and fried anchovies (ikan bilis). The presence of both provides a crunchy texture contrasting with the softness of the porridge.

To enhance the flavor, a small plate is provided with sambal lime (jeruk kunci/limau), spicy shrimp paste chili (sambal terasi), and sweet soy sauce. In Sambas, locals often eat it with the addition of "kerupuk rampai" or traditional sago crackers. The combination of savory flavors, fresh sourness from the lime, spiciness from the chili, and the aroma of Vietnamese coriander creates a unique explosion of taste on the tongue.

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Legendary Locations and Culinary Figures

If you visit the center of Sambas Regency, the areas around Pasar Lama and the banks of the Sambas River are legendary spots to taste this dish. One of the most respected names in the world of Bubur Paddas is Kantin Borobudur in Sambas City, which has stood for decades and is a reference for officials and travelers alike.

In addition, in Pontianak City (the provincial capital), there is Bubur Pedas Pa’ Ngah. Although located outside Sambas, the Pa’ Ngah family is from Sambas and has successfully popularized this dish on a national scale while maintaining the authenticity of the ancestral recipe. The success of these legendary eateries lies in their consistency in using fresh Vietnamese coriander leaves brought directly from the farms in Sambas.

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Cultural Significance: A Symbol of Togetherness

Behind its deliciousness, Bubur Paddas carries high social value. In the villages of Sambas, there is a tradition of "Begalle" or mutual cooperation during large events. Cooking Bubur Paddas is done collectively; men gather firewood and stir the large cauldron of porridge, while women pick vegetables and pound the roasted rice.

This dish symbolizes an egalitarian spirit. There are no class distinctions in enjoying Bubur Paddas; it is enjoyed by farmers in the rice paddies to nobles in the palace. The diversity of ingredients in one pot reflects the harmony of the heterogeneous Sambas community, yet they remain united in one harmony.

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Bubur Paddas in the Modern Era

Currently, Bubur Paddas Sambas has been designated as one of Indonesia's Intangible Cultural Heritage (WBTb). Innovations continue to emerge. If in the past it only used vegetables, now many stalls offer additional toppings such as beef offal, meatballs, or chicken feet to attract the interest of the younger generation.

For tourists, Bubur Paddas is a must-visit destination. It is not just food, but a story about the resilience of the Sambas people, the abundant natural wealth of West Kalimantan, and a heritage that continues to be preserved through the aroma of Vietnamese coriander and the savory roasted rice. Enjoying a bowl of Bubur Paddas on the banks of the Sambas River at sunset is the best way to absorb the soul of this "Earth of the Veranda of Mecca" of West Kalimantan.