Sambas Songket Weaving Center
in Sambas, Kalimantan Barat
Published: Januari 2025
About
Weaving Hopes in Sambas' Veranda: Traversing Cultural Footprints at the Sambas Songket Weaving Center
Pusat Tenun Songket Sambas is more than just a physical structure standing in the heart of Sambas Regency, West Kalimantan. This place is an intellectual and spiritual epicenter for the preservation of Sambas Woven Fabric, or locally known as Kain Benang Emas (Gold Thread Fabric). As a cultural center, this institution bears a great responsibility in safeguarding the dignity of the Sambas Malay civilization, which has been woven into threads for centuries.
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Identity and Aesthetics: Exploring Lunggi Weaving
At Pusat Tenun Songket Sambas, visitors are invited to delve into the uniqueness of a weaving technique known as Tenun Lunggi. Unlike songket from other regions in the Nusantara, Sambas Songket is characterized by its intricate motifs and the use of very fine gold threads on a base of high-quality silk or cotton fabric.
The artworks produced here are not merely commodities but visual narratives. Motifs such as Pucuk Rebung (Bamboo Shoots), Bunga Cengkeh (Clove Flower), Tampuk Manggis (Mangosteen Calyx), and Lidah Buaya (Crocodile's Tongue) are not chosen without reason. Each motif carries a deep philosophy about the balance of nature and obedience to the Creator. At this center, senior artisans explain that the Pucuk Rebung motif, for instance, symbolizes the hope that its wearer always benefits others, just as bamboo is useful from its roots to its shoots.
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Educational Programs: Regenerating Young Weavers
One of the main pillars of Pusat Tenun Songket Sambas is its continuous educational program. Recognizing that the greatest threat to culture is the loss of interest among the younger generation, the center has established workshops open to students and the general public.
The "Magang Menenun" (Weaving Apprenticeship) program is a flagship agenda. Here, teenagers are taught from the stage of mengani (setting up the warp threads), mencuk (inserting threads into the loom's reed), to the complex nyungkit technique for forming motifs. This education focuses not only on manual skills but also on historical literacy, where each participant is required to understand the origins of the motifs they create. This is done so they become not just operators of manual machines, but inheritors of cultural values.
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Innovation and Product Development
Pusat Tenun Songket Sambas also functions as an innovation laboratory. Without abandoning traditional patterns, the center encourages artisans to experiment with colors using natural dyes derived from local West Kalimantan plants, such as secang bark, mango leaves, and mengkudu roots.
In addition to meter-long fabrics for traditional ceremonies, the center develops derivative products such as ethnic bags, shoes, and home interiors made from songket. This step is taken to ensure that the creative economy ecosystem in Sambas remains vibrant, providing welfare for the artisans, while also ensuring that Sambas Songket remains relevant in modern lifestyles.
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Role in Traditional Ceremonies and Art Performances
The existence of this cultural center is crucial in supporting traditional ceremonies in Sambas Regency. Fabrics produced by this center are mandatory elements in the Antar Ajat ceremony (wedding procession) and the Tepung Tawar ceremony (a traditional blessing ritual).
Besides visual exhibitions, Pusat Tenun Songket Sambas often becomes a stage for oral art performances and traditional music. The melodies of Keroncong Sambas and the Tandak Sambas dance often accompany fabric exhibition activities. This synergy between weaving art and performing arts creates a holistic cultural experience for visitors, reinforcing the center's position as the gateway to Malay culture in West Kalimantan.
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Preservation of Intangible Cultural Heritage
Formally, Pusat Tenun Songket Sambas is a strategic partner of the government in conservation efforts. Through the documentation of ancient motifs that are nearly extinct, the center digitizes weaving patterns. Rare motifs that were once only owned by the Sambas royal families are rediscovered, re-woven, and patented as Communal Intellectual Property (KIK).
These efforts are vital to prevent cultural appropriation by external parties and to ensure that Sambas' identity remains preserved. The center also actively organizes cultural seminars featuring historians and cultural experts to dissect the connection between weaving patterns and the history of the Sambas Sultanate.
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Annual Event: Sambas Weaving Festival
Every year, Pusat Tenun Songket Sambas is the driving force behind the Sambas Weaving Festival. This event is a prestigious occasion that features inter-village weaving competitions, fashion shows involving national designers, and a global fabric market.
During this festival, interaction occurs between international buyers, textile collectors, and local artisans. The festival proves that Sambas Songket has global competitiveness. The presence of foreign tourists who come specifically to witness the weaving process firsthand provides a significant economic impact for the local communities surrounding the cultural center.
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Empowerment of Local Communities
Pusat Tenun Songket Sambas adopts a community-based empowerment model. The majority of weavers are women from surrounding villages. With the existence of this center, these women receive training in business management, quality standardization, and access to digital marketing.
The center acts as a curator. Only products of the highest quality can be displayed in the main gallery, which sparks healthy competition among weavers to continuously improve their skills. Through the cooperative under the center, artisans receive fair price guarantees, breaking the chain of middlemen that has historically disadvantaged them.
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Strategic Role in the Future
Facing the challenges of modernization, Pusat Tenun Songket Sambas is transforming into an eco-cultural tourism destination. Future development plans include the construction of an interactive museum where visitors can try digital motif design applications before practicing them on traditional looms.
As the heart of culture, this center consistently voices that Sambas Songket Weaving is not just fabric to cover the body, but an identity that envelops the soul of the Sambas people. Its existence ensures that amidst the currents of globalization, the sound of the loom's wooden parts (gedokan) will continue to be heard, signifying that Sambas civilization is still very much alive, dynamic, and sovereign in its own land.
Through the synergy between tradition and innovation, Pusat Tenun Songket Sambas ensures that this golden heritage will not fade with time, but will shine even brighter as the pride of West Kalimantan and the cultural wealth of Indonesia. With every thread woven, this center is stitching a more dignified and cultured future for Sambas.
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Penulis & Peneliti KontenTim GeoKepo adalah sekelompok penulis dan peneliti yang passionate tentang geografi Indonesia. Kami berdedikasi untuk membuat pembelajaran geografi menjadi menyenangkan dan dapat diakses oleh semua orang. Setiap artikel ditulis dengan riset mendalam untuk memastikan akurasi dan kualitas konten.
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